hitfreshairagain Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Hi All hope you can help with this question... I have hw90 with a hawke nite eye sr6 and in the past had it zerod at 30 yds on 6x mag however any bunnys closer would require hold under(if thats the right word) and with the sr6 having plenty of holdover marks it lacks hold under.So i thought about zeroing at say 20-25 yds so i could then hold over to 30 yds(hope your with me).So i started zeroing and thought id try it on 12 x mag lovely to see the target really big and was quite exited however there was not enough adjustment on the scope to bring the shot poi up.do you think its worth me shimming it to work on 12x mag or to stick with 6x what do you guys use. Hope you can help Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooter Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 The holdover parts bits in the scope are pre set for angle and distance at a set magnification, and are normally milliradian (mildot) or similar gradients at 10X (the actual value should be written in the book somewhere), but the SR6 has a different reticle, and it will take a little more working out. One of my shooting buddies has an SR6, and it is taking him some time to get used to it. Set it on 10X as this is normally the true milliradian setting of the scope to estimate distance, but for zeroing I always zero on maximum mag, then shoot on what ever is appropriate, but normally use 10X. If you are using a .22 then zero it at 30yds/metres. If it is a .177 then zero it at 45yds/metres. I say metres in case you have a metric scope. I have a metric scope and there is not much difference, but with a specialist scope it may be more noticeable. If you are missing some elevation then shim the front mount. If possible shim it so that you are in the middle of the available elevation adjustment, which should only require one or two millimetres. HTH Cooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downie Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 The point of the SR6 (I have the sidewinder with that reticle) is that you're supposed to be able to set it to x6 and then forget about it - all the aiming points should cover your entire range out to 50yds, including one high dot for shots around 15-20yds, and there shouldn't be any 'working out'. It's a great idea and successful to a certain extent, but not 100%: I was zeroing at 30, as per the instructions, but finding that the prescribed aiming point for 45yds was a bit off. When I finished my last round of HFT, I went back onto the zeroing range and set my sights to x10, and I think (hope) I'll have more luck with that once I've figured out the new aiming points. So... after all that waffle, I recon a straightforward mildot scope and lots of practice is a better bet than the SR6/12. I recon I might switch to a fixed mag at some point in the future, to simplify all the decision-making even further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitfreshairagain Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 hi guys,thanks very much for your detailed replys,it just seem to me that i wont be doing any shooting over 35 yds so the holdovers are useless i think i need to zero at say 25 yds to give me the hold under as well for quarry at say 15 yds.Do you think if i did zero at 30 yds and used it on 6x that good shooting will achive a tight group as its easier to use on say 10x to see the target. Thanks again Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downie Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 If you're not shooting beyond 35yds, I reckon x6 and zero at 30 should be spot on for you. Here are a couple of screenshots from the Hawke software (one set to x6 and the other x10), based on my muzzle velocity of about 570fps: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitfreshairagain Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Hi again Thank you so much for all your efforts of helping me with the calculator i wil stick to 6x and zero at thirty. Thanks again Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fergy Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 I know exactly what your saying, I have the same problem. I've zeroed at 20 yds on 6x mag. The grouping is spot-on and just hoping the reticle works out in 5 yd increments. I only have a Mac so no access to the HBR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downie Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 I know exactly what your saying, I have the same problem. I've zeroed at 20 yds on 6x mag. The grouping is spot-on and just hoping the reticle works out in 5 yd increments. I only have a Mac so no access to the HBR. Dude! The screenshots above are from my Mac, running Parallels & Win XP. I'm using a different computer right now, but tomorrow I'll try to get a screenshot for 6x, zero = 20. What calibre and pellet weight are you using? And d'you know what the typical muzzle velocity is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downie Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 (edited) Here you go - for my own pellets (.22), here are the charts for the SR6 scope with zero = 20yds, x6 and x10 mag: Edited November 9, 2009 by Al Downie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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