Gunny Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Valmet shotguns are not well known and therein lies my problem on detail about dismantling. Having done a search and only discovered only a couple of old posts about the Valmet Skeet 12 g o/u I am hoping that someone will have (or have owned) one and done some work on it themselves and be able to help. My first move was to remove the butt plate to undo the screw that holds the butt to the mechanism - but no screw Next move was to loosen every screw in sight but the two that are located underneath, just in front of the trigger guard would not move. In fact it appears that a previous owner has damaged these trying to undo them. So far I have only managed to remove the trigger guard and partially drive out what I presume is the lower hammer pivot pin (the upper one will not budge). I can see no obvious way of removing the woodwork. http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/do...pg?t=1279051899 http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/do...pg?t=1279051899 http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/do...pg?t=1279051899 http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w269/do...pg?t=1279051899 Hopefully my pictures will be large enough to be useful but if not I'm well stuffed, innit! Thanks for any help anyone can give. Gunny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSPUK Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Had this problem a year or so ago -- this is the resopnse. Cheers Dave No nothing should fall out of place unless the pins are removed from the action frame etc Two screws from the top, back one is the rear trig guard screw the one nearer the safety is the main one that goes through the stock to the bottom plate. Then the two screws from underneath on the trigger/ belly plate. Lift this from the back then slide rearwards and away this will then allow the stock to be removed. When reassembling, cock the hammers but be careful not to pull the trigger when re assembling. Push safety to on i.e. rearwards. Loop a piece of cotton around the selector trip and out the hole in the back of the trigger and tension to the rear so that the back of the safety catch spur goes in front of it. Then jiggle it all back together Hope all goes well, Sorry for delay in getting back. Attached are the pics I was on about. The trick if you ever take it apart as you'll see is to engage the safety catch recess, green dots and at the same time make sure that the back of the safety catch is in front of the selector trip, red dots. The trick was to place a loop of cotton around the trip up and through the hole at the rear of the trigger, shown in white. This should keep it in the correct position as the floor plate is offered up and fwds into position. Caught me out a few times especially as all this is hidden with the stock in place!. As you can see from the second pic there is not a lot to the trigger components but that slightly curved spring steel finger is the key component and was the reason mine was doubling and the selector was a bit hit and miss. I think it had lost its set over the years. It passes through the trigger return spring and winding its position up or down until just the right tension is obtained is only achieved by trial and error. Too slack, i.e. up too much, and the selector can move either way or jump on recoil for a double discharge , to tight i.e. down too far and the selector won't reset for the second shot when the trigger is released. ****** of a job assembling and disassembling each time especially taking note of the above cotton trick. Otherwise fingers crossed mines now fired 200 shots on the button. If you take that trigger out do it slowly and make a note of the position of the components. Hope this helps - I never did get to taking mine apart - took it to local gunsmith who was a wizz -unfortunately he has retired now. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunny Posted July 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Thanks for the response Dave. You have confirmed what I suspected which is that the two screws underneath in front of the trigger guard are seized and will need a good vice and a quality screw driver bit with plenty of leverage to either shift them or shear the head off! Years ago it used to be "Dad, can you help me with my car. I've broken ........." Now it's pay back time. "Son, can you help me with my shotgun. I've broken this screw and need you to turn one up in your lathe". The pictures are also very useful as I can see that this is not going to be a five minute job. Cheers, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSPUK Posted July 14, 2010 Report Share Posted July 14, 2010 Chris That is the only drawback with them - any other O/U you can just pull stock - Mine is a trap gun and although it's old it still function well - now it's been fixed that is. The stock bolt on mine needs a quick 1/4 turn with screwdriver to tighten it up after every shoot. - Not going to put Loctite on it. Best of luck Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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