Full bore Rifle

[deadeye ive]

Here you go Ballie

 

 

This is what suits me and my very first shot is on the nail

 

The following is based on alot of ammunition being fired and carefull observations being made to include Wind and temperature (I have the equipment but I'm no anorak Honest )

 

I run a perfectly clean set up ............The bore is cleaned even if only one shot is fired so a build up of copper has never been achieved in the rifling meaning no need to use a bronze brush

 

Equipment -Quality products only .....Bore guide ,Parker hale rod ,Jag ,Course or rough muslin and flanelette cotton patches and Butches Bore Shine (BBS).

 

Everything is fed from the breach end (Not the muzzle ) .

 

1,Insert bore guide

2,With a Rod and Jag and a course muslin patch soaked in BBS (Apply using a artist brush )insert and push through repeating 6 times .Allow the first couple of pass throughs time to soak into the rifling .

3,Same again (Without the BBS)but using the more absorbent flannelette cotton patches ........repeat 6 times which should leave a clean patch on the last couple of passes .

 

Takes less than 15mins on average .............After an outing on the range probably a bit longer

 

Job done .......DO NOT USE OIL unless the rifle is going away for storage and then this will have to be removed with solvent cleaner/degreaser

 

 

The above works well on a rifling that as been kept clean ............For a really well fouled barrel it 'll not work and leaving Copper removal chemicals to soak in for several hours and the use of a bronze brush is probably the only way to remove such fouling

 

PS(Just a theory of mine ,nothing more )

In engineering copper is used in varing forms ......Lubricating threads is just one of many applications ...............

If your running a hot load 3600 FPS + for eg then then copper is stripped more so from the bullet .......Allowing this to build up in the rifling will cause lack of friction between the rifling and the bullet outer coating causing accuracy problems .......But there lies another Senario .WE ALL have different ideas of what accuracy is concerning a hunting set up .

[deadeye ive]

Bump!

 

Just to put you all to sleep again :look:

[JohnGalway]

*Snores loudly*... Erm, no I mean... :look:

 

Nah, I'm giving up using the bronze brush for a while when cleaning the .223 Ive. I've noticed she's off for the first few shots when I use it, so tried it this evening on a target and yup, it's bang on the money after cleaning. Off I went to knock off a couple of wabbits with it before dark headshot @ 121, neck shot @ 70. Just where they should've been.

[mry716]

What you say makes good sense but I as with most others do not tend to be quite so enthusiastic with our cleaning schedule.

 

However, when copper does build up I use the 'Outers Foul-Out' setup to remove it. It is 100% effective and although time consuming well worth while. A couple of friends who clean with the same sort of meticulous regime as you were absolutely amazed when I cleaned their rifles and showed them the copper they had omitted to remove.

 

The process is simple. You block the action end of the barrel with a rubber bung, insert a rod with 'O' rings on it to stop it touching metal, fill the bore with chemical and connect an electrical source to action and rod. It is a sort of reverse plating and the copper from the barrel 'plates' onto the rod. It shows a coppery colour and it is surprising just how much you can remove from a perfectly clean barrel.

 

Well worth investigating

[deadeye ive]

A couple of friends who clean with the same sort of meticulous regime as you were absolutely amazed when I cleaned their rifles and showed them the copper they had omitted to remove.

 

 

 

Well worth investigating

 

MRY

No doubt you are correct as I am under no elusion that my procedure removes all the copper but while the first shot goes where it should then i'm reluctant to change the slightest detail

 

Thanks for the tip though

[Ballie]

deadeye ive

 

Thanks for the tips

[mry716]

The comment about the first shot is very valid. I have always said that the only way to zero a hunting rifle (I am not a target shooter) is to take it out every morning for 5 days at the same time and fire one shot at the same target. The subsequent group will be a true average of you and your rifle for that all important first shot.

 

One of my 308s actually shoots 2" off to 10 o'clock on a cold barrel.

[Frank]

From my experiences and my rifle smiths advice, who is ones of the best in our country, is allways use a bronze brush :blink: , Its, the ONLY thing, that removes copper and i have proven this to my self, by using a bore scope and seeing how much copper is left sometimes after just 1 bullet fired

The only thing that removed it was a BRONZE BRUSH. :blink:

 

Frank.

[mry716]

Frank,

Try an Outers kit and you will be surprised just what is left in the pores of the steel that you cannot see.

[Frank]

I agree mry, this is also a VERY, effective way to remove copper and might give that a go sometime. :blink:

 

Frank.

[deadeye ive]

From my experiences and my rifle smiths advice, who is ones of the best in our country, is allways use a bronze brush :blink: , Its, the ONLY thing, that removes copper and i have proven this to my self, by using a bore scope and seeing how much copper is left sometimes after just 1 bullet fired

The only thing that removed it was a BRONZE BRUSH. :blink:

 

Frank.

Frank

 

Your particular rifle might not be affected by using a bronze brush .......I know mine is (.223 )as along with several others (Friends etc!) but like I always say it ,s what suits my set up .

 

 

I have noted though that my CZ .17 HMR is'nt affected by any cleaning regime .........Which is a credit to the build quality of their barrels

[Frank]

Fair point Ive, i have heard this a lot from different folks.

 

The CZ you have, sounds like my CZ .223, not getting effected by cleaning :blink:

 

Frank.