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awmair

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About awmair

  • Birthday 16/10/1971

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  • Interests
    Lamping foxes <br>Wildfowling<br>Rough shooting
  1. This is me taken ootside the hoos,
  2. Thanks guys-- I've been shooting a good few years now and have shot many of the disciplines now so if I think I can pass on any advice (or opinions) then I will If I am unable to comment then I'll learn from the rest..........every day is a school day eh!!
  3. Andy 17 You should be looking to add the moderator to your application for your firearms now, otherwise the police force will charge you app £18 to add a firearm at a later date -should they at all grant the certificate, remember that the sound moderator is classes as a firearm on your certificate and must be added before you can use it.... The kit that Tommy trucker uses is first class. Here in Scotland I use an all weather remington 700 series .243 cal with a moderator and swarovski 3x12x56 scope for lamping foxes and I kill them 2 or 3 times a night. I use 55 grain silver tips (nozzler winchester combination) these are flat for about 250 yards and drop 2 inches at 400 yards. If you are new to this game some of this terminology might sound too heavy but you will learn quickly- you should be able to pick up a rifle and good scope for around £300 and moderated for an extra £150, the moderator reduces the boom and blast from the rifle leaving only the crack (like a .22 with high velocity rounds) this is because on full bore rifles the head is travelling too fast to take out the sonic crack! (faster than the speed of sound)mine travel at 4200 feet per second.It also reduces the recoil but by the time you experience recoil the round has left your barrel so accuracy is not effected but whatr this elimination does provide is the ability to still look through the scope at the target (as recoil removes your line of vision) and also takes away the fear (or anticipation) of the boom which can often make you pull the trigger instead of squeeze. hope this is of some help to you Adam
  4. Hi There When using your stop whistle at distance try to use it when the dog is close to something you can use as a gauge i.e say a paper or a stone. Try to stop the dog at this mark using the whistle (I use a long blast) and if neccessary a hand. The reason for using the mark is if the dog disobeys the command you can take him/her back to the initial place of giving the command and repremmand them there, as the trainning progresses the dog will know the reason and relate it to where the whistle command was given.......... Practise is the key and don't over do it as the dog will become bored stiff, I always say that 10 mins every day is better than an hour and a half a week.!
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