JohnfromUK
-
Posts
10,476 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
PW Shop
Posts posted by JohnfromUK
-
-
Regardless of rust, the wide ranging and fast changing temperatures in a loft are BAD for close fitted woodwork and highly finished metal. there is no getting away from that. Insulation will help - as will maintaining a near constant temperature. Electric heaters with no control will get too hot in the summer - which is very bad for long term woodwork storage. The bottom line is that a loft is not a well suited place for gun storage; if your kids can get into locked gun cabinet ...... you have the next generations master criminals!
Best bet IF you have to remain in the loft is to heavily insulate the cabinet - and add a small (large won't be needed if its well insulated) heat source with thermostatic control. I would use a few wirewound aluminium clad power resistors bolted to the cabinet from 12V DC to give about 25W (i.e. about 6 Ohms resistance) - and under humidistat control set to about 45-50% RH. This will be both economical to run and give decent humidity control - but will still have some temperature fluctuation.
The problem with a thermostat is that to prevent condensation, the cabinet internal air temperature needs to be at least slightly above the local (i.e. loft air space) air temperature - and that is where the trouble lies. In summer this will be seriously high - maybe upper 30's centigrade, which is not good for wood. But it will be quite low in winter - maybe as low as near freezing in a well insulated house.
-
Musto for me
+1
My original Musto done maybe 30 years - Faded and a bit tight now, it is still largely watertight and remarkably 'tear free'.
-
They tend to be heavier and so create less fatigue (good) In my experience the lighter sgun (with suitable loads) is the less tiring gun on a day shooting (which is why many older people prefer 20s)
they tend to have longer barrels which help repeat accuracy on longer shots (good) Whilst over 30" is uncommon in s/s, the majority of both O/U and s/s I see are 28" or 30"
they tend to have higher and thicker combs which aid repeat correct mounting (good) Properly fitted gun of either type in experienced hands will mount correctly
they tend to have more desirable fore end shapes which are easier to grip (and don't burn fingers) and control (good) Its true a glove is needed occasionally in hot weather - but it is very occasional
they always have better sighting plane arrangements because there is only one barrel in your line of vision and even that is hidden below the rib (good) This is mainly what you are used to, but I agree O/U is less intrusive on vision
they tend to have one trigger which you pull twice so no need to move hand slightly forward/backward upon firing (good) I prefer double triggers on both O/U and s/s. Again - what you are used to, but less to go wrong on doubles
they always have a more desirable pistol grip shape compare to the straight grip of SS which can make quick second shots harder (good) Not so - I have straight hand double trigger on an O/U - and have single trigger pistol grip on a s/s
they always kick more uniformly backwards rather than sideways by definition of a SS (good) Theoretically true - but I have never noticed a 'sideways' kick. s/s do suffer more muzzle flip though - especially with shorter barrels
they always play second fiddle to SS in gape when open (bad)
they might be perceived as less pretty in some circles (subjective).
Overall, the O/U is a nice (relatively) easy gun to shoot and has the edge for high scores and probably the highest birds - the s/s more of an 'acquired taste' - but ideal for a 'normal' game day, and beats on O/U hands down for a day with lots of walking and few shots like walked up grouse. Good shots can shoot extremely well with either - and poor shots won't improve much with one over the other, but TECHNICALLY there are not major advantages - its a case of what you like.
-
I have had a couple of Barbour items in recent times, a lightweight coat, the surface of which went horribly slimy and got all over everything (horrible green sticky slime - not like the old wax at all) and a bag which had (and still has) dreadful quality leather parts, 'brass' catches that were just plated.
No more Barbour things for me. For bags etc, Brady still make a reasonable product, though that is not as good as they once were.
-
I have one - it works OK - but it's actually pretty limited. Honestly, I can't say I really recommend it - another expensive gadget that rarely gets used once the novelty has worn off!
-
Resolved; a 2.6mm from Country Way Gunshop (excellent fast service via well known auction site) fits perfectly.
-
I believe most Spanish guns are 3mm, but can't be certain yours is.
-
A significant number of AyAs were built to order - which might include 'non standard' barrel length. I have a friend who has an AyA Model 53 with 25" barrels and a standard (i.e. non Churchill) rib. AyA have confirmed it was made like this.
If you send the serial number to AyA they will confirm the model and basic specification.
-
So I'm gonna be better off just taking it up too my local gun smiths too know for certain?
Thanks again
Yes - any markings on the barrels were put there at a particular time (usually at proof) and the gun may well have had the chokes opened out since.
Choke can be measured (approximately) by measuring the constriction in the muzzle area compared to the main barrel area; this is reasonably accurate, but a given gun will pattern differently with different cartridges - for example, plastic cup wads usually tighten the pattern compared to fibre wads. Strictly, you should pattern the gun at 40 yards and measure the percentage inside a 30" circle drawn around the centre of the pattern (NOT the aim mark) with the cartridge concerned from a ready 'fouled' barrel - but this is all rather time consuming - and the measure of constriction is usually sufficient
-
1.1 mm constriction is about 43 thousandths of an inch, which is a tight full choke.
0.7 mm constriction is 27 thousandths of an inch which is about 3/4 choke.
These may well be approximate measurements.
I had an AyA Yeoman some years ago and that came as standard half and full.
What you need to do is have it measured - or better still pattern it. Remember that it may have been opened up from what it was at proof.
'Drop in the end' gauges are NOT a good guide - as they are absolute diameter measures - choke is the degree of constriction.
-
Would anyone happen to know if the bead sight on a Merkel 203E (o/u) is a standard 2.6mm?
Cleaning my gun today after some clays, I noticed it has gone AWOL. Beads seem to come in 2.6mm or 3mm sizes. Comparing with a standard M3 screw suggests it is smaller than 3mm. I never missed it whilst shooting, but it needs replacing - or the water will get in and start corrosion.
Thanks
-
Passive 'in ears' (I use EMT) are good and comfortable - and last if you don't loose them;
Electronic 'in ears' are expensive and go through batteries pretty rapidly. Some people seem to have had reliability issues.
I have often considered going electronic, but cost and running cost have put me off. Protection is just as good from passive, and I find that I can hear enough with the passives in not to be inconvenienced at all.
Like you, I can't use cans as they interfere with mount, but I do use MSA Sordins when not actually shooting.
-
Oil is a widely used name.
'Lubricating' Oil (like Parker Hale Express, 3 in One, motor oil does a good job lubricating, and also pretty good at protection, but not all that hot on cleaning.
Cleaner (such as Youngs 303) does a good job on cleaning, pretty good on protection, but not intended (or good at) lubrication.
'Preserving type' oil (such as Rangoon oil) does a good job on protecting, not much on cleaning, but not intended (or good at) lubricating.
Grease is also excellent for lubricating the less delicate parts and good (if messy and inconvenient) at protection. It is not a cleaner.
None of the above displace water well.
WD40 doesn't do any of the above particularly well (my opinion) but does what it was intended to do (water displacing) pretty well.
KEY with all cleaning and lubricating is to clean away the old taking grit, powder residue, dirt etc - and sparingly apply new oil - lubricating/preserving as appropriate. Never apply enough to allow it to run into the wood. I have heard very good reports of synthetic motor oil as both lubricant and protectant oil.
-
Several AyA models have gold washed locks internally, but there was a period when it wasn't used (during the 1980s I believe). Models 53, 56, No 1 and I think No 2 all do in the right years. Strangely, the 'top of the range' Senior model didn't have the gold washing. The advantage (and as far as I can see, the only advantage) is a better corrosion resistance.
I don't know if it was used by any other makers?
-
If that had happened to me - my trust in the gun would be undermined and I don't think I would ever feel quite the same using it again. I have a pet hate of poor quality - especially in guns - and especially when there are many decent quality things available on the used market. I hope that you get a satisfactory solution.
-
There is a reasonable book called something like "Spanish Best" by Terry Weilland; recently reprinted. It has a lot of information but be warned - it is a little out of date (written perhaps 20 years ago) and also a little American orientated.
-
My advice would be to go and see a good gun fitter. I have been fitted twice - and I don't believe it is a 'DIY' process - or one in which 'trial and error' is wise. First and foremost - what a good gun fitter does is watches you shoot; he assesses your mount, stance, style and consistency and may decide to send you away to learn to be more consistent. He can see how well the gun fits you - and how much you are adjusting yourself to the gun ...... and that is where the problem lies.
I have seen replies to similar questions on here (and other forums) to the extent that a reasonable shot can shoot most guns. That may be reasonably true - but he/she will shoot quicker, more consistently and more comfortably with a gun that fits properly.
When you pick up a gun that is a near fit, you will unconsciously adjust your stance, mount and style to shoot as well as you can. Often this distracts the eye briefly from the target to the rib/foresight. We all do this when we borrow a gun to try. The step from there to the right fit - may be a small one - but its a hard one to get right. With the right fit, you don't need to consciously see the gun or foresight - it just shoots where you are looking - at the target.
As to value - personally - I don't like adjustable features. I like to get things set right (done by a stock alteration) - then leave alone. I find changing adjustments to be a distraction. For me therefore - an adjustable comb is a negative, but I accept I may be in the minority on this.
-
Common on Spanish guns (e.g many AyAs), also fitted to (some or all?) double trigger Merkels. Not seen it on English guns - though I believe it does occur from time to time. I have two with this feature (AyA and Merkel), but others (English) without and never had a bruised finger with any of them
-
Guessing, but Belgium did build a lot of cheap grade guns (s/s and hammer guns) most of which were not of good quality - hence Belgian guns developed a 'reputation'. However - they have also built high grade guns and it has always been my understanding that Belgian built Browings were well made and highly respected.
-
Early guns with a choke barrel were stamped Not For Ball
Feltwad
That stacks up because I had a Joseph Lang dated (by Atkin, Grant & Lang) to 1882 - and that was stamped 'Not for Ball' on the left barrel only
-
Great info, thanks. I've just dated my AB Williams from 1904 - 1925 and my Midland from 1925-1954.
PM sent re date codes
-
You should be able to date from the proof marks code as here http://www.hallowellco.com/british_proof%20marks%20-%20syntax%20by%20date.htm
Be aware that as far as I can see - it has never been nitro proofed. It is also usual to see the working load (e.g 1 1/8 oz) and chamber length (typically 2 1/2"). I beieve these came in to use in 1896
Therefore - from the photos - as far as I can tell - it looks like the marks for Birmingham pre 1896. As to maker, I have no idea, but from the engraving etc, I suggest probably a mid priced gun in its youth - and the use of Scott spindle type top lever and Purdey style bolts suggests not before late 1870s (they came in 1865 and 1863 respectively, but were only more widely used rather after the patents expired).
My guesswork - not gospel!
-
As said earlier in the thread, single triggers can be troublesome. I would also avoid the 'English named' clones such as Denton & Kennel. Popular about 20 or 30 years ago, they haven't held value well - even though inexpensive new.
They used a number of Spanish makers - and some were not as good as others. Parker Hale used Ignacio Ugartechea, which are good - and Gunmark guns also have a good name (again made by various makers, often Arrietta? All of the major Spanish names are OK (AyA, Arriatta, Grulla/Union Ameria, Ugartechea etc), though of course there are different grades.
I think that AyA followed by Arrietta (Arrietta are also sold by some English makers under their own names but with declared Spanish origin - such as I believe William Evans and William Powell) hold value best, and I suspect that these two brands are probably amongst the best sellers.
-
Key thing is to thoroughly clean off the old oil/grease taking any dirt and grit with it - then apply whatever you choose to use very sparingly.
Dirt and grit causes wear ....... excess oil/grease attracts and retains dirt and grit.
Flush and extended choke question ??
in Guns & Equipment
Posted
Which (I suppose) is why they are available (at least when fitted as after market) as 'long' and 'short' tubes. The only multi gun I have has Teague 'long', but that was a previous owners choice.
I am on the side that prefers them flush, but it's only that I think they look slightly better.