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Clutch and flywheel replacement


ferguson_tom
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I have a mazda 6 2.0 td it is basically a ford mondeo. The clutch has started to slip at 110000 miles which i cant complain about, a new clutch is £185 and the dual mass flywheel is £485 (+VAT.) The clutch has only just started slipping when accelerating hard in higher gears so is it really necessary to change the flywheel if i have caught it early?

 

If it is necessary i will probs just scrap it as only worth £1000 as its not exactly a tidy motor but perfect for me.

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No solid flywheel kit available unfortunately, I was told the clutch kit comes with everything mentioned above including a new slave cylinder. What is it like to change the clutch on front wheel drive cars, i am used to old land rovers and old rear wheel drive stuff but never done a front.

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No solid flywheel kit available unfortunately, I was told the clutch kit comes with everything mentioned above including a new slave cylinder. What is it like to change the clutch on front wheel drive cars, i am used to old land rovers and old rear wheel drive stuff but never done a front.

 

I used to be a trans tech for Ford Motor Co ( not a dealers ) had that been a mondeo that wouldn't be your first dual mass flywheel. If it were mine I wouldn't risk not changing it but as it's a mazda you might be lucky. Are those prices from Mazda or good quality pattern parts ? I've not worked on a late Mazda 6 but all Mondeos are a PITA I wouldn't want to do one on my back a two post lift is a must. as the sub frame should come down and on Mondeo's the steering rack is attached. you should also use alignment pins when it goes back. I have seen one side of the sub frame dropped and the trans force back then the clutch changed via a three inch gap but I wouldn't want to try.

I can remember the days of doing Cortinas in 15 minutes.

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Changed my clutch at 61,000 on my petrol Mondeo 2002 as it was slightly slipping. I did have a second hand dual mass flywheel (£50) but the original seemed okay when I took off the gearbox, so I left in on there and just changed the clutch and release bearing. It's still fine now at 80,000.

 

Changed it on the driveway, never having done a clutch change before. I just followed the Haynes manual. The steering rack was the hardest to get off as one of the bolts was a bit awkward to get at (from memory I lowered the subframe a bit first then used an offset spanner) and the gearbox is heavy as well especially when you are doing it on your own!. The subframe was actually easier to remove than I thought it was going to be and as 88b said you should use alignment pins - http://www.aovc.co.uk/tools/Sealey/Vehicle_Service/Tyre_-_Alignment_Tools/Sealey_VS013_-_Subframe_Location_Pins_for_Mondeo_Fiesta_Clutch_Pair.html

 

Took me two days (16 hours) to do it.

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Thanks for the responses, just spoke to my local mechanic and he said no need to do the flywheel as not rattling or anything but will check it when pulled apart. I think just going to give it to him to do and get the cambelt done at the same time. So nice expensive week this one with both my mazda and the other halfs freelander having another new engine management sensor.

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