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parellax range finder


dead-eye-dick
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You turn the objective lens until the image is in focus and the mark corresponds with the range. The more zoom the more accurate.

I find that its best left at a fixed point because sometimes turning it changes your zero. Just wind up the zoom to full, if its in focus and you have a high mag then that is your zero range(if set to same range as your zero) and you can tell if its to far or to close when out of focus because the grass either behind or infront is in focus.

Hope this helps.

SS

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You turn the objective lens until the image is in focus and the mark corresponds with the range. The more zoom the more accurate.

I find that its best left at a fixed point because sometimes turning it changes your zero.

The vast majority of scopes have markings that are off in fantasy land. Put some tape on and mark your own.

Whilst it's generally true that the higher the mag the better there are other factors too such as quality of glass and size of objective. The bigger the objective the better the rangefinding as a rule.

If changing the parralax alters your aimpoint then you aren't getting your head in correct alignment with the scope. It's called parralax error. Try repositioning your eye with the eyebell and trying again. If your eye is in the correct spot adjusting the parralax will not cause aimpoint shift.

 

To use parralax as a rangefinder you'll need a 24 mag or higher scope to get decent results at any distance worth worrying about. Set scope to max. mag and turn AO or sidewheel until the target is in focus. Read off your own mark from the objective bell or sidewheel. With a top scope you can rangefind to a yard out to 55 yds, though it's not overly suitable for hunting. I'm not saying it can't be done, just that it's not ideal. I've successfully snipped from a 4x4 using such a method and taken a number of long range shots that I simply wouldn't have been able to contemplate with a typical hunting scope.

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