sandersj89 Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 OK, I have a lightforce 170 lamp that has come with the standard on of switch inline to the power source. I have a spare Deben Dimmer switch/lead from a Tracer Max where the switch is on a spur of the lead between the lamp and power source. What would be the best way mate the lightforce lamp and the deben dimmer leads. The easy option would seem to be to cut the lead at the rear of the lightforce lamp and add a block connector that is the same as on the deben lead but looking at the deben website I can see the connectors for sale, does anyone know if they are and where I can get them? Other options I can think are: 1: Cut the lead just behind the lamp and remove the plug from the end of the dimmer lead and splice the two leads together to make a permanent connection 2: Slice the spur with the dimmer onto the original lightforce lead. 3: Any suggestions for good secure block connectors to use similar to the Deben ones? What are the forum’s thoughts/suggestion? Thanks Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave66 Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Jerry The Deben Dimmers are polarity sensitive, so which ever way you wire it up, dont get the *** + neg mixed up, or the dimmer unit will fail. Regards Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandersj89 Posted June 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Jerry The Deben Dimmers are polarity sensitive, so which ever way you wire it up, dont get the *** + neg mixed up, or the dimmer unit will fail. Regards Dave Thanks for the tip. I am thinking the best way is to lop of the conector on the deben lead that used to go to the back of the Tracer, cut the lead at the rear of the lightforce lamp and then splice those together. That should avoid any issue with the dimmer..... Just need to find so secure connectors that wont pull apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dusk2dawn Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 OK, I have a lightforce 170 lamp that has come with the standard on of switch inline to the power source. I have a spare Deben Dimmer switch/lead from a Tracer Max where the switch is on a spur of the lead between the lamp and power source. What would be the best way mate the lightforce lamp and the deben dimmer leads. The easy option would seem to be to cut the lead at the rear of the lightforce lamp and add a block connector that is the same as on the deben lead but looking at the deben website I can see the connectors for sale, does anyone know if they are and where I can get them? Other options I can think are: 1: Cut the lead just behind the lamp and remove the plug from the end of the dimmer lead and splice the two leads together to make a permanent connection 2: Slice the spur with the dimmer onto the original lightforce lead. 3: Any suggestions for good secure block connectors to use similar to the Deben ones? What are the forum’s thoughts/suggestion? Thanks Jerry Hi Jerry I used Deben part no,GA5060 cost £4.65 Bullet to 12v socket. Made for the job no probs as yet. D2D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandersj89 Posted June 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 OK, I have a lightforce 170 lamp that has come with the standard on of switch inline to the power source. I have a spare Deben Dimmer switch/lead from a Tracer Max where the switch is on a spur of the lead between the lamp and power source. What would be the best way mate the lightforce lamp and the deben dimmer leads. The easy option would seem to be to cut the lead at the rear of the lightforce lamp and add a block connector that is the same as on the deben lead but looking at the deben website I can see the connectors for sale, does anyone know if they are and where I can get them? Other options I can think are: 1: Cut the lead just behind the lamp and remove the plug from the end of the dimmer lead and splice the two leads together to make a permanent connection 2: Slice the spur with the dimmer onto the original lightforce lead. 3: Any suggestions for good secure block connectors to use similar to the Deben ones? What are the forum’s thoughts/suggestion? Thanks Jerry Hi Jerry I used Deben part no,GA5060 cost £4.65 Bullet to 12v socket. Made for the job no probs as yet. D2D D2D True, that would work and I have one that came with the Tracer but I ideally would need to sute the lightforce lead other wise I have too much leads combine both the lightforce and the tracer leads, to unwieldy. I am leaning towards slicing the dimmer lead onto the back of the lightforce with some sort of joint, covering in heat wrap and job done, sort lead with a dimmer at the right polarity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGalway Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 (edited) What I did was this... Visit Maplins and get a cheap soldering iron and some solder. 1. Cut the existing LF lead above the switch. 2. Seperate the cable into two cables by pulling apart for a few inches, strip the cable about 1cm exposing the copper wires. 3. Cut off the connectors on the dimmer unit and strip the cables as above. Here's what I did next, no doubt someone will be along to tell you this will electrocute you but I've done three without my hair standing on end. I temporarily used those screw together connectors, you know the ones, two ends, two screws, put a wire in each end and tighten the screws. 4. Join one cable from the lamp to one cable from the dimmer unit (I have the end of the dimmer unit which doesn't have the switch and dimmer control facing my lamp). 5. Join the other cable from the lamp to the other cable from the dimmer unit. 6. Switch the dimmer switch to "1". This is the fun/most likely dangerous bit. 7. Touch each of the cables coming from the other end of the dimmer unit to the positive and negative terminals of your battery. 8. If the lamp lights up, turn the dimmer switch to "0" and try again. If the lamp still lights up then you know you need to change around the wires joined by the connectors from the lamp to the dimmer unit. If the lamp doesn't light up ensure that the dimmer brightness control isn't set to it's lowest setting. I like to set mine in the middle of it's range when doing this. 9. If all has gone well for step 8 then unjoin ONE set of the leads connected from the lamp to the dimmer switch and solder them together. I cover mine with insulating tape as does every other dodgy DIY electrician 10. Same as above for the other set. From the dimmer unit to the battery will depend on what battery connections you will be using. I always get rid of that God awful curly cable and replace it with another straight cable. The most important bit in doing this is as Step 8, it's just to ensure the polarity is correct. That's my bit of dodgy advice given for the day. That method has not once failed me, mind you I could be living on luck PS, do try not to electrocute yourself, I'd not be let live it down... Edited June 4, 2008 by JohnGalway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandersj89 Posted June 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 OK, Thanks for that John. I had a look at the lamps last night and took the rear of the Tracer Max and it looked likely I could remove the small section of lead and this could be spliced onto the rear of the lighforce easily. I have just got of the phone to Deben and they are sending me the part, small section of lead with the correct connectors already attached free of charge. I can splice this onto the lightfore lamp and thus remove the long spiral lead and use my existing dimmer lead for both lamps. Nice and easy solution and a bit thanks to Deben for sending the bits free of charge.... :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrick Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 John & Jerry, I've got myself a dimmer switch for my Lightforce now, which I shall splice on. I cannot wait to be rid of that curly cable. What length of straight cable do you now use? I figured that 2-3m would be ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGalway Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 I think I stuck a six foot length of cable below the dimmer unit That's more than I need from the backpack, usually have a lot of it secured. How much you may need for using from a vehicle you'll know yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THEINVISIBLESCARECROW Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 I just got conversion parts from deben. Yes It makes the lead too long so I just put it over the back of my neck. One advantage was I could put the rifle on the floor stood up, sometimes a long lead is useful. You could allso wind up into a loop & hold together with a cable ties or gardeners wire or two. Lukily I managed to find a lightforce dimmer that bolts to the top of the battery bag & sold my std deben dimmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandersj89 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 John & Jerry, I've got myself a dimmer switch for my Lightforce now, which I shall splice on. I cannot wait to be rid of that curly cable. What length of straight cable do you now use? I figured that 2-3m would be ideal. Ok, from the back of the lamp I now have an 8" section spliced on and covered with heat shrink. This ends with the standard deben block connector which I connect to the standard dimmer lead from a Tracer Max. Nice tidy solution that seems to works perfectly. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandersj89 Posted June 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 Here is the final result, the Tracer Max Dimmer lead and the lightforce with spliced on deben plugs, seems to work very well…… Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrick Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 The block connectors look worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGalway Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 The block connectors look worth a try. Until they melt that is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baldrick Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 That sounds encouraging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnGalway Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 I think those blocks melted on all the LF lamps I've had That's why I solder now Though if I was to use connections I'd likely go for electric lawnmower/strimmer jobbies or those like you use for headphones, the lance type ones if they could take the current (sorry, this time of the day - or any other time of the day - is a no technical term time for me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandersj89 Posted June 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 Well I ran the lamp last night on various power settings for 20 mins constant use and so far so good, no heat to be detected in any of the connections and the dimmer worked a treat. If they do cause a problem I will report back but seeing as the leads handled the same battery pack on a Tracer Max I cant see there being too much of an issue. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.