Gun Bluing equipment

[caplock]

Hi all

Up for sale my old bluing setup for traditional rust bluing, the old way before these modern chemical solutions.

 

Consists of barrel boiling tank approx 35 inches long and humidifying/ sweat box plus approx half carbouy each of Nitric and Hydrochloric acid.

 

Basic procedure was remove all old blue and polish barrel component back to bare metal.

Degrease and apply acid solution (receipe and ingrediants included) with a cotton swab to the metal work to be blued.

Place accross the bars in the sweat box, light tea light in holder and place on top the earthenware dish with a salt solution in.

Plug in lamp, shut lid and leave overnight.

This creates a humid and salt laden atmosphere that promotes the acid formula to rust and inbed to the metalwork.

 

Next morning fill boiling tank with boiling water and keep at a gentle rolling boil over a heat source ( I used to place it accross two rings on the gas oven if misses was out or use a camping stove burner with the tank supported on breeze blocks if she was in ) and place the barrel asy into the boiling water and 'cook' for ten minutes.

Remove barrel asy and it will dry by its own heat.

You will now be presented with a bright orange rusty looking barrel/ part. Gently brush off with a fine wire brush this scale and you will see the first layer of dark bluing.

Repeat the above for two or three cycles and your bluing will be as deep and as dark as found on only the best guns out there.

This is a labour intensive process and you get out as much as you put in regards metal prep/polishing and degreaseing but the final results are far superior to any quick chemical or hot blueing available. This is why all major gun manufacturers take the quick route and the bespoke makers rely on the old methods with the corresponding costs

Once the final rusting and boiling cycle have taken place and you have removed the final scale the whole assembly/part is soaked in a good gun oil and rubbed down with a cotton cloth (old flannel is ideal) and left for a day for the blue to cure.

Stand back and admire in the warm glow of 'I did that!!' and get prepared for the influx of 'Can you do mine??'

 

Looking for £60 face to face because of the acids.

Thanks for looking and reading this far!!

ATB John

[Zapp]

I'll take it, pending a quick look etc.

PM Sent

ZB

[SHOOTEMUP]

Hi all

Up for sale my old bluing setup for traditional rust bluing, the old way before these modern chemical solutions.

 

Consists of barrel boiling tank approx 35 inches long and humidifying/ sweat box plus approx half carbouy each of Nitric and Hydrochloric acid.

 

Basic procedure was remove all old blue and polish barrel component back to bare metal.

Degrease and apply acid solution (receipe and ingrediants included) with a cotton swab to the metal work to be blued.

Place accross the bars in the sweat box, light tea light in holder and place on top the earthenware dish with a salt solution in.

Plug in lamp, shut lid and leave overnight.

This creates a humid and salt laden atmosphere that promotes the acid formula to rust and inbed to the metalwork.

 

Next morning fill boiling tank with boiling water and keep at a gentle rolling boil over a heat source ( I used to place it accross two rings on the gas oven if misses was out or use a camping stove burner with the tank supported on breeze blocks if she was in ) and place the barrel asy into the boiling water and 'cook' for ten minutes.

Remove barrel asy and it will dry by its own heat.

You will now be presented with a bright orange rusty looking barrel/ part. Gently brush off with a fine wire brush this scale and you will see the first layer of dark bluing.

Repeat the above for two or three cycles and your bluing will be as deep and as dark as found on only the best guns out there.

This is a labour intensive process and you get out as much as you put in regards metal prep/polishing and degreaseing but the final results are far superior to any quick chemical or hot blueing available. This is why all major gun manufacturers take the quick route and the bespoke makers rely on the old methods with the corresponding costs

Once the final rusting and boiling cycle have taken place and you have removed the final scale the whole assembly/part is soaked in a good gun oil and rubbed down with a cotton cloth (old flannel is ideal) and left for a day for the blue to cure.

Stand back and admire in the warm glow of 'I did that!!' and get prepared for the influx of 'Can you do mine??'

 

Looking for £60 face to face because of the acids.

Thanks for looking and reading this far!!

ATB John

If Only I was closer I would definatly had that, that price is an absolute bargain!!!!!!!!!!!!

[caplock]

Cheers Zapp, pleasure to meet up. Take your time on the practice pieces and you'll soon be producing cracking results.

Thanks again ATB John

[Zapp]

Cheers Zapp, pleasure to meet up. Take your time on the practice pieces and you'll soon be producing cracking results.

Thanks again ATB John

 

Likewise John, it was a pleasure doing business

 

Top bloke, will most likely be picking your brains shortly!

 

ZB