barbel-brad Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 i have a Lanber S/G and would like to know the following is a cylinder choke the same as a skeet choke i.e are they just names for the same thing ?? Regards Andrew Bradley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toombsy Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) True cylinder chokes are more open than skeet chokes, giving you an even wider pattern at close range. True cylinder chokes have no constriction at all, while skeet chokes are constricted by 0.005ins. To give you an idea, at 30 yards a true cylinder choke will give approximately 44ins pattern. A skeet choke will give around 38ins at 30 yards. Improved cylinder will give around 35ins. So, there's not a huge difference in it, really. Edited February 27, 2009 by Toombsy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbel-brad Posted February 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 Thanks for that so the choke in my Lanber with no groves in it the most open one i have would be a what cylinder or skeet or inbeetween ?? Sorry for being a numpty LOL Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toombsy Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 No probs mate No grooves = True Cylinder 5 grooves = Skeet 4 grooves = Improved cylinder (Quarter) 3 grooves = Modified (Half) 2 grooves - Improved Modified (Three-quarters) 1 groove = Full Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) Care here: The no notches and 5 notches is not a universal convention. Many manufacturers mark their Cy chokes with 5 notches, and don't offer a true "skeet" which would be a 1/8th choke. You can even get improved skeet, thats 3/16th choke for second barrel - called skeet1 and skeet2 by some. Quite a number of manufacturers DO call skeet and cy the same, its only the bigger manufacturers and the replacement choke boys that start offering the in-between sizes. To some extent, this is because the best skeet guns are all dedicated to the discipline and are set choke. There is also quite a lot of opinion on what a "skeet" choking should be. Europeans tend to prefer Cy or even retro choking ( my Perazzi MX8 skeet is retro choked and ported, as original. The choking ends at 26" inside 28" barrels, at cy, then the barrel flares out internally to oversize through the side ported area.) The Yanks go in for the sizes between cy and 1/4 - but theres also a large number of skeet shots out there shooting much tighter chokes by choice - so what is a skeet choke? Just a choke manufacturers name! Truth is in a standard 5 choke set the open choke marked 5 notches is more likely to be true cy than skeet. The difference between true cy, skeet, and 1/4 is pretty small at 20-25yds or so, you average skeet shot distance. These small differences might make the top shooter get 100 str instead of 99 to come 2nd, but to the average Joe its not going to change your score at all, you'll miss because you put the shot in the wrong place, not because of 2" of pattern difference, or a slightly better pattern density. Edited February 27, 2009 by clayman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbel-brad Posted February 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Thanks for the info guys the reason i ask is that i dont do a lot of clay shooting at all mostly rough pigeon shooting decoy work and roost shooting and at the moment i have in my gun 4 grooves = Improved cylinder (Quarter No grooves = True Cylinder I was goint to put the skeet choke i have obtained in the place of the 4 grooves choke Comments please Regards Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 If you are looking for your two most open spreads, for close driven / walk up work - CY / Sk is appropriate, but one of the principles of the game gun is that you never know at what distance your quarry will appear. With Cy / Sk, you have limited yourself to close birds only, nothing over about 25-30yds as the pattern will be too dissipated and you may wing a bird but not kill it. The theory is it takes 6 pellets to the head to give a guaranteed kill, and an open choke 30yds+ range will have a loose pattern and even gaps in it with no pellets. If you shoot one open, and one tighter, say 1/2, it still deals with your close targets, albeit the pattern is smaller and you need to be a tad more accurate - but now you can take the longer target. Use your D/T or SST to choose the optimum barrel for first shot, so if its close, take Cy barrel on the trigger or selector - if its a miss the second is a reserve. Think of a game gun as a variable single barrel for two ranges - use the best barrel ( and you may have two different loads as well), to take what you hope will be a single shot kill - then remember you have a reserve barrel, maybe not the best load / choke configuration for the shot now, but you have a second shot available. Better still, use the second on a different bird in the flock/flyover that is at the range for the barrel, or just reload! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbel-brad Posted March 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 (edited) Thanks clayman a very good reply just what i needed Regards Brad Edited March 1, 2009 by barbel-brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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