gadgit

:o :o Its all hapened today folks! Fistly, the licence has flown into the mailbox! Picked up the gun as well.....686 special / sporter. Checking the chokes out has thrown me into confusion. All have letters on them apart from one, 1 / No letters....plain with a spot . 2 / PB-CL-SP C**** 5 slots thread end. 3 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................. 4 / PB-M-SP *** 3 slot.................. 5 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots................ Well chaps whats this all mean then..... i'm presuming Full choke, 1/8...1/4...1/2...3/4 somewhere in this confusion.....eH? some help will be useful. Thanks.

So glad you all say that about the chokes, as this is just what i hoping to hear. I think i'll leave the top open, and 1/4 in the bottom till i'm hitting them most of the time at the range. The first thing I'm going to do is find the POI (point of inpact) in a field to see where its shooting, for both barrells, and then I will have the confidence to fire in the right place. Just can't wait to get the gun, should be this week that the licence drops through the letter box!!

Interesting subject chokes! I've been down to the local clay shoot today and asked what chokes people are using and quite a lot say they just use the ones that come with the gun? They normally say 1/4 and 1/2 is standard. most are not sure what they have in? I'm asking all sorts of questions while scoring for them. Like, do you swap the barrells to shoot the closed choke first and then the open for the second shot, if the distance shot is first. Most say they don't bother? they just shoot in the same order. As i'm new to this, I can't go telling these guys that perhaps it would help them to change it for different positions. Most are there for a shoot and a tea and then off home for dinner (just a morning out really) I'm thinking, that if you want to shoot well you have to take it a bit more serious at least from the start to give yourself as much chance as possible of hitting the targets. Most tend to say to just blast as many shots as you can to find your shooting point, i'm not sure if this is really right. But as a newbie I'm prepared to be helped by anyone! most of the good shots today said that 1/4 and 1/4 would be fine for 95% of the clays as they were set today. They said once you are hitting them regular you can move forward to changing chokes when you know what you are doing. I found on my first shoot that when I used a fixed choke s/s I could hit then a bit easier and using my friends berreta SP I was struggling to find where to shoot. So the question is should you struggle from the start with closed chokes to make you shoot more accurately, or start on the clays with open chokes and start hitting the dam things to give you confidence from the start. And what chokes would you put in my Berreta 686 sporter when I get it?? (awaiting licence to come through the post) as a new shooter.

this is a 686 silver pigeon.

In my short time looking for a gun, that seems a lot to pay for a 15 year old gun. i'm sure you will get someone who will know more than me on this subject, but there seem to be variants in the quality which reflects in the price. So it could be a 686 silver pigeon, or a 687 silver pigeon. (15 years old would suggest its a 686 from what i've found out) Most say to remove the stock cover and check the date stamped under the cover to conform when it was made. Trouble is, the 686 is nearly the same looking. 686 seems to have silver pigeon under the gun on the steel amoungst the engraving in a clean area. Also has p. beretta on a clean area as well, and! made in ataly also on a clean area. 687 seems to have silverpigeon on the trigger cover? but not on the rest of the steel area? I've just looked at the picture and it looks to me to be a 686 sporter (just like the one i'm buying) If it does not say silver pigeon underneath it, its the sporter, as far as I can find out. does it have vented sections inbetween the barrells, and a wider section to the site than normal?? Blooming heck, why is it so hard to be definative with beretta's??

Don't forget the post office collect the duty ect, and will charge you £8 as well just to pick it up!!!!!! Although you have paid everything else. what a ******!!! Be carefull, it used to be that the price in$ ended up being the price nearly in£££. Its not that bad now due to the £v$ but it is still a toss up as to if its worth all the bother. Research it properly before you take the plunge.

Anywhere near Cambridge, must be police approved and nice condition. Thanks.

This below is from the beretta range discription, and why its difficult to work out what a gun is to a newcomer! 686 silver pigeon!! BERETTA 686 SILVER PIGEON Beretta Silver Pigeon (pictue) Beretta Silver Pigeon action (picture) Beretta Silver Pigeon over & under shotgun is a perfect blend of beauty and performance: the meticulous detail of their appearance mirrored by their flawless performance in the field. Now manufactured in 28 gauge with a specific, proportioned action and in .410 gauge, as well as the classic 12 and 20 gauge, they are considered the most elegant, balanced, easy to aim and fire, standard shotguns in the world… When you take a Beretta Silver Pigeon into the field you equip yourself with the first name in consistent over-and-under performance – the preferred shooting companion of millions. ref/ber01 Stock mm/inch Length of Pull 368/14.5 Drop at Comb 35/1.38 Drop at Heel 55/2.17

Well i'm all excited now, its in good nick, according to my shooting mate. Man in shop says its a 92? 686 sporter, perfect condition with all the chokes (but no box/case?) what do people do with the cases, eat um! Anyway, for those in the know, theres a couple of questions/ Why does it have the wide bead to the site? how does this help. The barells have gaps running between them, is this normal? for an 92 age gun? or a special order or what? The stock is an light oiled dull finish, looks great!! is this normal, or an extra, the wood is in great condition. The marking in the case are the same as the silver pigeon (as far as I can tell) The only differance appears to be it does not have silver pigeon written underneath. The shop man believes it to be a 686 onyx sporter 92. please be gentle with me as I've bought it!!!! (well, given him a deposit) picking it up when me licence drops through the door in the new year. Every other web site review says its a great gun, and yes you were all right, I'm now really glad I did not buy the AYA s/s I was looking at. Can't wait to get it home. What do you think.

:yp: I'll take that as No then!!

Apparently the silver pigeon Sporter has a manual safety, as apposed to a silver pigeon (standard) which is fitted with auto. This is what the shop owner told me. Is there no way with the serial Number 94731, that I can tell how old it is from my house?

:yp: right, as you guys put me off the Aya No2 with dent in barrell, your help is required for a gun. This is where I won't to be. A Beretta silver pigeon, sporter, 28inc, very nice condition in a dealer. Price is £625 including a gun sleeve/ bag. I'd like to confirm the year of the gun, as he says its about ten years old? serial No 94731. i can't seen=m to find out much on serial numbers for the Beretta's on the net? but it could be me. Someone has apparently converted the safety to auto, from manual? The gun appears to be free from any problems and he gives 3 month warrenty. The case Sleeve costs £33, so I get the gun for £592!! this seems good to me ? help me quickly before its gone!! Or should I leave it, and buy a new one. It appears that a new one would be around £1200???:no:?//

Did you shoot the Beretta against the Browning? why did you go for the Browning over the beretta? Just interested to know, as i'm in the same ball park as you. Thanks.

Thanks again chaps that's all useful information for me! Pat.

Thanks chaps, Brilliant advice, which will be taken. The gun will stay where it is. As some of you have said, I think I'll stick to my first plan and get a good SH O/U like a Miroku, Browning, Beretta. I've looked at the other posts concerning these guns and the trouble is some of the older guys say you should start with an old S/S, But I think I'll try and get the right gun from the start. I'll be back!!!!

Hi all. I'm new to the shot gun world but have been reading up (as you do) I've been advised to go for an O/U from all the stores and this seems ok to me, until My man next door offers me his gun. Two options are in my head with this gun which is an AYA No2. serial 184679. At first it seems a good gun, but there are a couple of small dents in the left tube? I've tried to photo them with some success but its not easy to capture the dents. He bought the gun about ten years ago and it seems to me that the serial No suggests it an 1960-65 made gun. So, the dents in the left tube?? are they critical for the gun? can they be pressed or driven out, do they need to be removed, he says the gun shoots fine. Cost of repair would be? And of course its a S/S which does look great, 26inch barrells. whats he want for it? £500, with a steel gun cabinet, and carry case. My thoughts are, I could use it to learn with, sell it on and get an O/U at a later date if I wanted to? I just don't want to buy trouble for my fist gun. But it is sooooo pretty!! IMG]http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd193/gadgit1/2007_1214first0006.jpg[/img]