gadgit

you can reduce the time by taking it to a gunsmith!

Rossini is a name well known in America,,,,,,,,,,,,but not rissini?

Use a fine car finish rubbing down pad, they use them to finish the surface just before spraying. Its a thinish soft scowring pad that puts very fine scratches in the surface. This will not remove all the surface which you will want to keep. I did this on mine, and it worked a treat. :unsure:

Boiled Linseed oil gives a nice satin finish. Put it on and leave it for five mins, and then rub of the excess.......... Must be boiled !! it then drys nicely to a none sticky finish. Next day, no sticky at all.

I to suffer from this problem, but have also used the spot on the shooting glass method. This works a treat for two very good reasons. Thr first reason is that the spot, about 3/8th dia does not interfere with your normal sighting at all. To set it up, You put the shooting glasses on and look down the gun. You then place a sticky spot on the lens with a weak washing up liquid on it, so you can slide it into the correct position to block the sight from your left eye. When you get it in the right place dry it off with a piece of tissue. When you lift off the gun, as if viewing the clays from left or right, you should find the spot is high on the lens and you can see with both eyes again. It should only block the view when you are on the gun. I've done this and it works for me a treat. As I said, this does not make you into a one eyed shooter, you just take the shots naturally. And the spot goes inside the lens and most people will not even notice you have it on the glasses..................Great!

I've just got mine..............Soooooo i'm cleaning mine all the time? My wife says I need to get a life No comment.

Don't worry about the Letters Mr 'U' You don't need a Skeet choke with what you should have. Just have a look at them and see what they are. Don't underestimate the chokes, they close the barrell down at the end and narrow the width of the shot from open to full choke. Use as said before, the favourite being 1/2 in the top and 1/4 in the bottom. i've got improved and 1/4 in mind. (not quite good enough yet) If you start shooting with chokes that are to tight, you will have a job to hit them. so, either of the above will be fine for a start. you need all the help you can get at this stage. So just make sure the right ones are in. I'm betting 1/4 and 1/2 are allready in the gun? Let see some pictures of the beast then??

you May have have these if they are the original ones! 1 / One big spot, or no markings..........................Full choke 2 / PB-CL-SP C**** 5 slots thread end.................1/4 choke 3 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots....................................Improved cylinder (english open choke) 4 / PB-M-SP *** 3 slot.........................................Modified.... 1/2 choke 5 / PB-IC-SP **** 4 slots.....................................1/4 choke Get them all out and check the markings. You will See I have two IC (improved Chokes 1/4) and no 3/4. some say two 1/4 chokes are more useful than having a 3/4 choke? If you are just starting, have an open in the bottom and 1/4 in the top until you can hit them well, and then move on! some will say 1/2 in the top and 1/4 in the bottom..................up to you. Remember, you will normally shoot birds coming towards you and fire the top fist. if you miss and its closer, you fire the open choke with more spread. Or sometimes the other way round of course! Two much imformation eh!

Good...........................an open mind!

Now I'm getting the story Pat, I hope you are all watching this now. Miroku 3800 with full and 3/4 chokes.... trap shooting.........32 inch barrells.............in my book that a great shot with those chokes in!! Although i've just started, I'm still using open and modified (1/4) with Beretta 686S sporter 28in and not yet got my eye in! but I'm trying. I think i've been over leading and can't wait to get out and correct this. I'm hitting 40 yarders (pheasants) and then missing the easy ones? This will not be your problem Pat. Again this shows that a natural eye makes a great shot with the added advantage of time with a gun. The greatest learning aid, apart from a good instructor of course. Lets just hope that 'U' gets the right one eh! Even more important that he gets one that fits him then!!!!!!!!!!

Good info that Pat!! Just out of interest, did the 32in Beretta slow you down on the move. How does the 3800 differ from the Beretta? What barrells do you have now. The 3800 looks like a sporting gun to me? did you look at a Silver Pigeon.......................... All good stuff this for 'U'

Mr U, You are taking a dangerous path it would seem? Don't make your mind up just yet. Look at the Beretta Silver pigeon and Browning as well, before you decide what to go for. I get the impression the MK70 is now the one you are honing in on here and thats not healthy at this stage. £1000 is a lot of money and you could buy a mint S/H Silver pigeon for that, as long as you like it that is? some of these guns won't feel right. You are now in the ballgame of where you could buy the better grade of gun SH with an oiled top grade stock and parts. Remember, you probably want to keep this gun for years. Ask the dealer to show you the better grades SH with low milage, and see what they come up with. Even the Miroku MK70 is made in cheap and top grades, take a good look and get the better gun. You will be so pleased you bought the higher grade S/H than a new one. The feel and quality of the higher grade, I think, is worth the money. But thats just what I think, of course. As long as the gun feels great to hold, is not to heavy, MK70 is a heavy gun! (some are far to big for some people) fits straight into the right places and gives you a real buz!!!! then that the one to get. Good luck mate.

:blink: Just in case anyone else would like to know?? 1 Mark is Full 2 Marks is 3/4 3 marks is 1/2 4 marks is 1/4 0 Marks is open ( I think) Pat.

I'm new to this game and would not pretend to know as much as some on here concerning the reliablity or better or worse build quality between the better guns, But. I bought the Beretta 686S Sporter because its lighter than the Browning and Miroku. After holding the Browning and Miroku, I found them big and heavy and wide for me, and when I picked up the Beretta it felt great straight away. So, if he's a big Lad he may be able to handle a big heavy gun. Read this!! The world's 20 best shotguns (extract) Beretta 68 series over-and-under Beretta makes some of the most popular game- and competition guns in the world (with its production of over-and-unders exceeding 50,000 per annum). The 68 series guns are famously reliable and made, even in cheaper grades, from first-class materials; Beretta is one of the few manufacturers to maintain a sophisticated metallurgical laboratory on site and pays a great deal of attention to production consistency. All 68 series guns have bifurcated lumps, stud-pins at the knuckle and are locked by conical bolts that emerge from the breech face as the gun is closed and set in small round sockets either side of the top chamber mouth. This system is an especially clever feature of the design and, like the hinge-pins, may be replaced by over-size parts to allow for wear. The guns also have shoulder pieces on the barrels (replaceable in some competition models) which set in corresponding recesses in the top rear of the action wall. Beretta 68 series guns in 12- and 20-bore are among the most popular game-guns in Britain, with good reason. Recent models are available with improved stock shapes and a chemically achieved decorative effect mimicking traditional colour case-hardening. My favourite game model, however, is the side-plated EELL in 20- or 28-bore. It's a gun that will not disgrace itself in any company and costs under £4,115, a great deal of gun for the money. However, the plainer Silver Pigeons in 12- or 20-bore at around £1,500 are probably the best buys of all. Let me dare to ask one final question. What is the best gun in the world? I shall fudge the answer by putting it in the context of price. If I had up to £1,500 to spend my choice would be a plain grade Beretta Silver Pigeon 12- or 20-bore. If I had between £3,000 and £4,000 to spend, I'd buy a Beretta EELL or side-plated Caesar Guerini. With £5,000 or so in the bank, I would opt for a Perazzi or Kemen (the latter being an exceptional high-bird gun as noted). Remanufactured vintage guns from Atkin, Grant & Lang represent excellent value and allow for the confident everyday use of a hundred-year-old gun built to your exact requirements. Bosis side-by-sides also represent excellent value when one begins to consider capital expenditure. With unlimited funds, I would go for a new Holland Royal side-by-side or over-and-under in 12- and 20-bore respectively, or a Purdey pigeon-gun. If I were Italian, though, it might well have been a Fabbri. One gun on a desert island for the next 20 years? To use the vernacular, that's a no-brainer: the plain Jane Beretta Silver Pigeon simply could not be bettered. It offers the most reliable bang for the least buck. I would have a 28in-barrelled 20-bore if cartridges were available (because the handling qualities mimic those of a much more expensive gun), or a 12-bore if they were not. To read the whole article read this......http://www.thefield.co.uk/features/153911/The_world039s_20_best_shotguns.html Admittedly I am biased as I have the 68 series and it does everything and is light. Cost in a shop £600!!!

:lol: Now be really impressed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! B.C. Miroku (in Kochi, Japan) manufactured the Charles Daly Model 500 side-by-side shotguns. Miroku is best known in the U.S. for producing the famous Browning Citori O/U shotguns, but all Miroku made guns are of excellent quality with fine fit and finish. Miroku produced Charles Daly shotguns from 1963 until 1976. The Model 500 was a straightforward field gun of proven design. It featured an Anson and Deely type boxlock action with a blued receiver, a bit of simple engraving, checkered walnut pistol grip stock and moderate beavertail forend, and blued chopper lump barrels struck full length with a concave (English style) rib. Double underbolts keep the gun closed. A single bead at the end of the rib serves as the sight. The top tang mounted safety is automatic. Forward is "fire" and back is "safe." The safety works fine, but like all safeties it should never be relied on. The 500's walnut pistol grip stock and beavertail forend are hand checkered in traditional point patterns. They align the hands nicely with the target. The forend release is of the Anson push button type. The 500 was equipped with double triggers and plain extractors. Charles Daly's upscale Empire Grade model featured more engraving, a single trigger, and selective ejectors. The Model 500 was offered in 12 gauge as well as 20 gauge and with barrel lengths of 26" (Mod./IC), 28" (Full/Mod.) and 30" (Full/Full). Many were produced with a solid, raised and tapered barrel rib. A ventilated rib was an extra cost option. The Magnum Model (30" Full/Full barrels) came with a rubber recoil pad, others with a corrugated black plastic butt plate. 12 gauge guns with 26" and 28" barrels came with 2-3/4" chambers, but all 20 gauge guns were bored for 3" shells regardless of barrel length. None of the foregoing (except the chopper lump barrels and double underlugs) is particularly remarkable. What is remarkable is the high quality materials used and the care that went into the manufacturing and assembly of these guns. The original purchasers of these Charles Daly/Miroku side-by-side guns got a terrific bargain for their money. Following are some basic specifications for the Charles Daly 500 shotgun. * Action: Boxlock * Gauges: 12, 20 * Barrel length: 26", 28" or 30" * Chambers: 3" * Rib: Concave (English style) * Sight: Brass bead * Stock: Checkered walnut pistol grip type with blued steel pistol grip cap * Forend: Checkered walnut beavertail type * Length of pull: 14.5" * Length overall: 44.5" * Weight: 7.25 pounds (with 28" barrels) * 1968 MSRP: $150 (standard rib); $179 (vent rib); $239 (Empire Grade) Guns and Shooting Online technical advisor Jim Fleck owns the Miroku made Charles Daly Model 500 pictured at the top of this article, which is in excellent condition. Several years ago he had the late Larry Brace fit a Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad to this gun, which is otherise in original condition. Basically, the Charles Daly Model 500 field gun lived up to its namesake. It is a very good shotgun that was under priced when new and is still undervalued on today's used market. If you find a used one in good condition, buy it.

are! Fishybarney you outbid me for that case on ebay. i've got a new one and cut the skirting out in about 10 mins, with no problems. I also bought a new one for less than you payed for it?? Good luck mate.

Charles Daly/Miroku Model 500 Side-by-Side Shotgun There you go!

i've ordered some cartridges from Just Cartridges, as I'm finding that the price is creaping up fast!! After contacting them they have nearly sold all the cheaper ones and I know I don't want rubbish, but I've gone for the Rio 28 7.5. I've gone for the 1000 load which i'm hoping will last me most of the year?? or will they. After trawling through most of the sites these were a reasonable price at £133 for 1000. Local shop want £200 for a 1000 of their cheapest. i'm a new shooter, please tell me i've done the right thing?? Pat.

Remember! they don't earn the same as us in the states, so thats a lot of money for them to pay. Average wage in this county is around 23-25K Average wage in the States is not $50k for mr normal so its not cheap for them to buy them. Certainly not half price for them compared to us. Oh yes try inporting them to this country and get screwed for tax even more??:lol:????:yp:???????? unless of course you have taken the difference into account of course (then I apologise)

Thanks Martin, I needed that advice. you have made me feel better!! The thing is i know its going to take time, i've been told that this is how it is. but being a very good rifle shot makes me want to get on quicker than i should. I've got a man I know you said to come see him at the shooting ground if I was strugling. The next shoot is not till the first sunday in the month Can't wait. Thanks. Pat.

Just been out today with my Berreta 686 special /sporter with a flat rib. First shots with me new gun. Checked the point of point of impact firing at a bale of straw with a piece of paper marked with 30inch dia circle at 35 yds. Yes it does fire high, about 70% above 30% below, just as it should do! but knowing this, did not appear to help me hit the targets?? Hit some ok at times, got me thinking i'd cracked it! But, Next round of 8 shots i couldn't *** a barn door. hows this work then??

Just got mine as well, 686 sporter. Seller sold me a tin of gun spray detergent which appears to be very good. clears all the plastic and lead streaks from the barrells. clean all the chokes and leave a fine film on everything that is metal. Bear in mind that the gun is made in Italy and will rust if left damp after rain. My mates Silver pigeon rusted and he can't remove the marks. so, as said, clean after every shoot to maintain its value. good luck.

Thats it then, 1/4 in the top and Improved Cylinder in the bottom. i'll let you know how I get on. Thanks to all.

Thats cleared the first part up then! So, As a starter on clays, with this my first gun, what would you advise I should use for both barrells bearing in mind what chokes I have? Can't wait to start the ball rolling on this one!!!! I'm expecting different answers!!

thanks chaps, brilliant as allways!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!