Dave-G
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Posts posted by Dave-G
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I'd image Toyota won't be looking to expand their manufacturing bases any further in the UK.
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I know this incident wasn't a gun but its amazing how .gov and media try so hard to limit legally held knives and guns while overlooking the illegal one's being trafficked by boat people.
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Many drivers don't have the knowledge us older drivers have.
I make a big thing of leaving enough room for following cars to pass me on the inside by being just left of centre when turning right from a single carriageway road. I must have done that at least 50 times but not once has anyone taken advantage of it, seem they cannot comprehend it.
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35 minutes ago, ditchman said:
DONT SKIMP ON EYE PROTECTION........OCV is open circuit voltage...it is the set ammount of volts that is running thro the machine before the arc is struck.....it governrns the hot start................arc force is the pressure at which the electricity is shooting out ofthe end of the rod...(sort of like the water pressure) its amps related.....if you turn it up it will burn deep but leave alot of spater.....you match the arc force with the size and type of rod and temperature of the welding material....
get some scrap metal and different rods ..and have a morning having fun and making a mess....and it will soon drop into place..
as you have an DC set you maybe able to get electric brazing rods....
Thanks for the information ditchy.
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31 minutes ago, ditchman said:
looking at those welds and the thickness of the metal ....i rekon you would do better on negative earth....can you adjust the OCV ? or is it fixed ?.....sometimes if you are doing tricky stuff.....pre-heat the material
That might be called the arc force in this menu, i think it's fixed but will look again next time.
I've noticed warm rods spark up better than new one's.
I bought this off ebay, thinking it'd be good for tight overhead reach, They don't auto dark. It looked really comfy and it is so I'll likely keep it but complain and settle for a partial refund.
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4 hours ago, ditchman said:
were you using 1.6mm rods or 2.5mm rods ?.....what polarity were you on ?
1.6 for the thin 'platforms' the rad rubbers sit in on the bar and 2.5 for the 5mm bar to the 2.5 mm chassis. Negative polarity.
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On 19/11/2023 at 16:57, oldypigeonpopper said:
hello, How you finding the Welder Dave??
I've not used it since, I have other things on at the moment.
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It's too late to save many business's.
This country is very expensive to do business in, my next door neighbor has a fashion clothing business that is finding it very difficult to compete with foreign suppliers. He's in the process of moving the business to Africa.
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9 minutes ago, oowee said:
If you have a normal job and/or a private pension/savings you have already been robbed by the current door handles. We have the highest level of tax ever under this lot and the lowest level of services ever. Ok it was not their fault that we had covid and Brexit but they have done their utmost to make us poorer as a result. Johnson, Truss for goodness sake what does it take for people to see this???????
The least worst option got through.
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3 minutes ago, oowee said:
GB News?
I doubt they'd have Tommy Robinson on air.
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3 hours ago, Weihrauch17 said:
He wasn't meaning aid for Ukraine.
Oops slightly loopy me getting it wrong again lol.
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I agree with all that's been said, however, my thoughts are that our assistance of Ukraine maintains a handy buffer from Russia's moves to enlarge themselves again. Their threat is likely much more than many of us realise.
It's also nothing new - we were intending to that before he came.
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2 minutes ago, ditchman said:
looks sound enough.....well done
Bless - it is sound but I'd not want to post a close up photo.
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8 hours ago, oldypigeonpopper said:
hello, what welder did you buy ??
The one from B&Q. :-)
Out with the old - in with the new. I'm not taking closeups because the welding is distinctly amateur lumpy, but it laid down metal where I needed it to, and it'll be out of routine sight so I know the radiator is now secure secure and that's my main concern for the 22 years old car.
There's 1.5 welded to 5mm bar, 5mm bar welded to 2.5mm chassis member and built up the thin parts at the edges of the 25mm holes of the 30mm bar. If I was buying the bar in I'd have got wider.
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Seems Lidle's Parkside has a similar but more involved one - with a user manual. Copied from an online one for PTMI 180 A1:
Switch the device on by setting the ON/OFF switch9to the “I” (“ON”) position. You can now set the welding current by rotating the control wheel3. By pressing the control button2several times, after selecting the “0.0” setting (in the “Electrode 1/6” menu item), you can choosebetween the convenient functions: Hot Start, Arc Force and Anti Stick. You can set the parametersusing the control wheel3and confirm them by pressing the control button2. By pressing the control button2until the “Electrode 1/6” menu item is displayed, you can select theelectrode thickness (1.6–4 mm) by rotating the control wheel3. The current and convenientfunctions are then preset. -
42 minutes ago, ditchman said:
can you adjust the OCV...........(open circuit voltage)
Ah that might be the VRD (after searching Google) lol.
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28 minutes ago, ditchman said:
can you adjust the OCV...........(open circuit voltage)
I've not seen a setting for that.
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OK, I got the full menu options by advancing from 1/6: electrode setting of 0.0
The anti stick feature was great too, after it threw its wobbly I kept getting the rod stuck so guess it was on too low a current: that's after it had started playing up so I was winging it. I can now see that 'other settings' are only found by setting the electrode at 0.0 - probably as a safety default. If an electrode size is set it wont go beyond wattage adjust.
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Huh... I tried long pressing the menu button and lost track of what i did but its back again.
No dang info about how to reset, arc force, anti stick (currently on) setting, vrd (currently set at off).
I'm slightly autistic and have concentration issues so can't remember what I did to get the full menu back. There's now explanation advice about this lol.
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The welder arrived today so I got some practice in welding some 1.5mm steel to 5mm steel, and building up some extra meat to the edges of the two 25mm holes in that steel flat.
The hot start feature is amazing... erm WAS amazing... Its not there now!
I'd initially seen a reference to 30% hot start in the digital readout menu - amongst some other settings.
I can only now get: menu - 0/6, electrode size 1/6 then it auto sets the current. The rest of the menu options have disappeared and it sticks like the old buzz welder I have here unless I turn it up.
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I'll go with the cautious approach too.
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5 hours ago, ditchman said:
when you get your rods....try and order them from a welding shop and as for the best 1.6mm rods you can get ...the smoothest burning etc ...dont know if Satinex make 1.6mm rods............they burn very smooth.....they are for mild steel...............steer welll clear of Low-Hydrogen rods...
when you use thin rods you will get the shakes ...so when you start to burn....hold the rod and the holder at the same time until you are half way burnt
if you are joing sheet together ..you could try "Buttoning"
Thanks very kindly for your advice, I have some of my brothers 1.6 rods here with his old buzz welder that won't go low enough amps. They're packed loose but I'll try to find out more about them. While the wife has the oven for tea on I'm drying them out on the bottom shelf, she dint even moan about it lol.
DE-RAIL:
I can practice using it with thicker and thin steel on a second Pinin project car I'm working on - bought to swap out the immaculate blue and silver leather seats - a match to both cars blue over silver bodywork. I'll be swapping out a few other bits of it too. Its tow bar backs up my thoughts that it's rear had been under salt water with all the rot at the rear that's already had a lot of welding - it comes from the south coast so likely used to launch a boat.
More about that here if anyone wants to read it, its about the fourth post down. https://www.facebook.com/groups/MSP4x4UK
I found the flaky radiator carrier was half gone when I removed it to replace the timing belt: previous owner was scrapping it because his alleged "timing chain" clatter. I happened to know they have belts and suspected a tensioner issue. I was correct, someone had put the tensioner pulley on backwards so it barely touched a loose belt. I'm waiting for parts on that. The repurposed black bar I'm replacing it with is 5mm thick.
A possibly daft question, if using DC, does the ECU need unplugging?
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2 hours ago, ditchman said:
....does it come with the TIG pack of torch/gas hose ...eletrodes (zerconiated and thoriated ) ?
I don't see any reference to those parts.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll get it ordered today being its a Black Friday £40 off.
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Thanks ditch, A mig is out of my price and carrying range to be honest.
But do you have a link to a very occasional small job DC candidate that can be electrode neg?
This looks like it can go neg or *** electrode.
Where's Ditchy Merkle's mucked up again
in Off Topic
Posted · Edited by Dave-G
Seems a perfectly normal curiosity statement to me - like if a kid will have ginger hair: unlike both of his supposed parents.