The Bear

I gave him information from the HORNADY Manual, since their bullet is what he asked about. If you use magnum primers all their loading data can be thrown out of the window as they increase initial pressures.

BLNE stand for BOX LOCK NON EJECTOR. Just so you know.

If your gun has a standard 10" twist, a 100 grain bullet is getting towards the limit of what can be stabilised. Try a 95 grain SST. In my experience hornady bullets are very good but my 22-250 doesent like 55 grainers but loves 50's. The twist should work with the 55's but its just a case of "Some Guns" dont get on with "Some Bullets". Generally I find if a gun likes a bullet, it will work to a great extent with virtually any powder in the correct burning range and primers make little difference. Fine tuning those loads is where the extra effort works and there it does maybe pay dividends to try some other stuff. For the record, Ball powders do not "NEED" magnum primers. It may work in your gun MRY but it is not a prerequisite.

Im sure we would agree on a lot.

Frank is right about the JB. Dont touch it, its an abrasive whose use is unneccessary if chemical cleaning is done properly, just ask Mr MacMillan who knows about these things. And how do you know its not wearing the barrel just as much as extra rounds through it, do you use a borescope and trained eye. I wouldnt feel up to checking that one out so i stick to what the boys in the "Know" say.

Thats what I'd hoped you would say miffy.

Im not taking sides although im fairly sure who is right but a good example of friction in action is Extrusion and Injection moulding of Polymers. Polymer chips are fed into a hopper and these are in turn fed into a barrel with an Archimedes screw of decrasing pitch, this barrel is heated. To reduce the viscosity and make the polymer into a homogenous liquid(bear in mind this stuff isnt runny!) that is fluid enough to inject into a mould or extrude through a die requires an awful lot of energy(heat in laymans terms). Most of that energy is generated through friction in the barrel/screw assembly, not through external heating. That should give an example of how much friction is a factor, and is a relevant example. (Bear in mind that Barrel in that example refers to a very large "tube" that is heavily condstructed to withstand the pressures involved, dont get any ideas about thinking its rifled!) Thanks MRY for giving your examples and sharing your "real world" experience. From what you have said you show that in normal use your guns have done a hell of a lot of work and have both lasted well and given you good value. Just bear in mind in the UK, if you use quality factory fodder at around £15 pound per box, it will cost you £3750 to burn out a 5000 round barrel. Now it costs from 400 quid upwards to rebarrel and that will be to a higher standard than your factory barrel will have been either made or fitted so it really does sart to seem like barrel wear is a mionr issue. Say £600 for a nice barrel fit, thats 12p per shot in this case. Even if you missed 50% of the time, that would be 2500 deer or foxes and since hopefully you dont miss that much you can throw in zeroing and practice into that 5000 count. It really does seem that unless you are an avid target shooter or just love shooting off hundreds of rounds of ammo for fun, for a sporting rifle shooter, barrel wear is probably the cheapest part of our sport, i would suggest we spend more driving round farms using petrol/diesel, going on stalking trips and buying ammo than will ever account for with wear. Miffy may be an exception( I think he was unlucky) but even in his case with only 2k through the gun, does he regret it, I think not.

So buy some and sell to us at a profit then frank. Thats if anybody wants one without a valid warranty.

Thanks to those of you who answered the question. Nice to see the usual warped ideas floating around though.

Thanks Nick. Mungler, thanks for proving the old adage "If all else fails, read the instructions"

Respond ONLY if you have shot out a barrel. I dont want to hear any "My Mate did...blah blah blah" answers either, Direct experience of your OWN GUNS ONLY is what is required here! Calibre Make/Model Stainless or Blued Chromoly Steel Barrel Number of rounds Average shots per outing Cleaning regime Factory/Handloads And FRANK, do not even start having a 22-250 slagging contest...................... otherwise you will set of my left brain lobe....Fister :yp:

There is no such thing as a free lunch. More performance always means a higher price to pay be it in powder or barrel wear. Yes, larger bore sizes do tend to be a bit more long lasting but does anyone really care. I have an idea!

If the recoil spring is damaged, it may have tightened its coils enough to bind on the sleeve. Get a new spring it wont be much.

Yes, ask your FEO, but dont beleive what he says(they are so full of their own **** sometimes). Read the home office guidlines and know what you are entitled to and then get a copy of the laws relevant to shooting to know what you can and cant do. Markbivvy was right! (my other ego agreed with him) Dunganick was right! DaveK was right. It frightens me what a poor grasp of the laws relating to shooting some members on this forum have. I say again, find out the law for yourself, FEO's have been witnessed to have told certain forum members advice that is in total contadiction to the law!

Well, maybe, maybe not. Just pointing out the facts.