pin
-
Posts
6,881 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
PW Shop
Posts posted by pin
-
-
Well f'me if I don't post for six months and Cat's still winding up TP - nothing ever changes
-
I got in there with the drunk angle covering my ample *** early so by using the "Amy Winehouse" principle I can abuse myself, do badly, blame everyone else and get away with it
Get Mr K to do this:-
start->run->cmd nslookup forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk tracert forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk
And copy & paste the output in a PM to you which you then post here
-
If he's PM'd you then he's logged in to the forum (if the message came from him) - so it's either he's been naughty and can't post or I've drunk too much and don't understand the question
-
I'd urge caution with the in-ear jobs, I'm told that a significant proportion of the damage to your hearing happens not via direct sound through the ear canal, but indirectly via the structures and bones around the ear.
As the bloke who told me about this said, in heavy industry you don't see blokes wearing ear plugs, for things like clay shooting with constant high impact noise you want an ear muff to protect the whole ear.
He also mentioned that this is doubly true in children.
-
Looked real nice yesterday mate, here's hoping the wind drops. If not Tuesday?
-
If additional components have been added (additional hard disks for example) then a normally functional PSU can be "dragged" down by the load, as can a PC which has a failed or failing disk which is drawing more current and again dropping the supply on one of the rails below specification.
Piebob is right, could be a bunch of things. 15 years experience gives me a feeling it's as I said in the first case, though.
With just about all PC problems you can take a logical approach to help eliminate elements from the math. At a bare minimum a PC requires power, some memory, a CPU and a graphics card ONLY to pass POST.
Removing all peripherals, disks, add in cards, everything but SOME of the memory (depends, some need pairs of sticks), the graphics board plugged into a monitor and obviously the CPU will draw the problem down to the lowest common denominator.
Obviously it won't boot, and you'll end up with a message like "Missing Operating System" or "Boot device failure" (depends on the BIOS maker). If you get it to POST reliably in this state you've actually removed the cause, now carefully and one at a time add back things in order of importance until you get it to fail as it was, the last thing you added is probably causing it.
If it fails in this "bare" state, try swapping over some of the memory you removed with the stuff installed and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't do it, it might be worth a punt at trying a replacement PSU - see if you can borrow one off a mate to try (I'm trying to be frugal here HD!)
One of the best diagnostic tools for a PC just about everyone owns but they just don't realise it. In the bare state, without the hard disk installed just add in the CD drive and attempt to set windows up from the CD. If this gets to the stage that it complains you don't have a hard disk without crashing there's probably not a lot wrong with the hardware of the machine
-
Sounds to me like it's not POST'ing (power on self test). Sequence a PC goes through before trying to load an operating system.
If when it starts you DON'T get the "Windows didn't start up correctly" message, which offers you options about what to do, then it's hardware related and nothing to do with windows, virri or anything of that nature.
When things like this happen it's frequently power or temperature related. A component may need time to reach temperature before it is within tolerance due to a failure, individual tracks can crack and will join reliably after something warms up and they expand.
Power supplies with problems tend to present with issues like this on the 5v rail (used for logic level components and the CPU, among other things). Variations and problems on this rail will frequently prevent booting or cause system instability. Problems on the 12v rail (generally powering components like hard disks etc) will largely not cause instability unless severe, most devices have regulation built in which will deal with fluctuations that logic components won't.
As to what to do, well, depends on what's wrong with it. Whilst I can assert what it might be without looking at it I couldn't say what it actually is. If it's PSU related I'd expect you'll get a new one for about £10. If it's a discreet component on the motherboard and it can be replaced then it's probably pence, assuming you can work out what it is and actually replace it. Usually you'll find it's the capacitors used to smooth out the supply to the logic level components which are misbehaving and the older the board the more likely they can be replaced.
Most people wouldn't bother, you could get a barebones (CPU/Memory/Cooler/Motherboard/Case) to replace the thing, from about £100 - which would end up being likely 3X the speed - so is it worth fixing? I wouldn't bother
-
Cheers!
I've tried loads of different marinades and most are really good, but people always say the Chinese marinade is the best. Something about how the ginger tenderises the pigeon.
One thing I have found, don't over marinade, anything more than 24 hours it turns the pigeon "spongy" and it's horrid.
-
-
Air Arms s410TDR
Those are TINY, very light and very accurate.
-
On the cheap get a Netgear DG834G - that pack comes with one USB2 wifi adapter to which you'll need to add another USB2 wifi adapter
These have limited range, without knowing how your house is laid out or how big it is (and how many other wireless AP's there are around you) I can't say if this will work, it should though.
If you want guaranteed range and the faster "N" wireless standard (the USB keys I showed you are still the same for both) then look for the best price on a Netgear DG834N
Other cheaper routers exist, linksys are ok for example and can be a few quid cheaper. The netgear stuff is excellent though and "just works"
-
What kind of broadband do you have (cable/ADSL)? What modem do you have now?
What kind of range do you need between each of the computers and the router?
-
-
-
Silenced .22lr is a fantastic choice, I thought so having seen what it could do and applied for it. I recently swapped it 1for1 and won't be getting one. I've seen, rather heard, far too many Rick'o'Shea's
Silent, potent, actually very safe (if you hear a ricochet it's not hurting most folk) but I couldn't deal with the 25% chance of a "VRRRRFFFF" "click" in the distance.
I've used ballistic tips almost exclusively with the HMR and never had one end up where I didn't want.
-
Looking at Sako just now for my .223 - cracking rifles
-
I'm more impressed with the "bag" of golf balls, do you sell those?
-
Nothing like a unified voice for shooting and related sports, is there
-
jonseys' svelt frame, on the young shots page wasn't it.
You old smoothie you, flattery will get you a long way!
-
Another vote for the Hull Sovereigns.
Used them at the English last year and they are superb, in the FITASC extreme range guise they ar 1600fps I think. Very moderate recoil for something so fast and they just feel smooth!
-
I found out about clay shooting because I used to fly near a hay-bale shoot.
First thing they all wanted to know was "can I shoot one of your planes"
If someone buys the plane / helecopter I'll fly it for someone to shoot
-
Come up with the £100 and you can shoot it, if you can catch it
-
Don't you want a lifetime supply of v14gr4 / X4n4x / A r0l3x or to enter into a mutually beneficial business venture with half of Lagos?
-
No indeed, in England, and small deer (Muntjac & CWD).
Naughty, I should have said that.
3rd time shooting shotgun
in Clay Pigeon Shooting
Posted · Edited by pin
I'd go further, unless you are shooting at long sporting targets then skeet & skeet will do you. Long can be defined as way longer than you will have yet seen, blokes have a habit of exaggerating distances (so Mungler and LV tell me anyway!)
I used to be a choke fiddler, I admit it and I thought it made a massive difference. Not shot a lot in the last 6 months but I the 1000 I have shot I used whatever was in the gun (skeet & skeet rhino's) with No8 CCI claybusters. Ok not a lot of targets but there wasn't a single sporting target in there that I didn't break at least a few times with those chokes.
My view now is that if you are in the right place with skeet and 8's you'll break the target, at extreme range you might need to tighten up the chokes but at normal grounds you won't see extreme range. My experience thus far, and it's not extensive, is that you are MUCH more likely to be fooled by the course setter than you are to miss because you read the target PERFECTLY and put the shot in EXACTLY the right place but somehow the pattern you threw had bigger than clay sized holes in it!
Just my view