poguemahone

you'll have a bit of trouble defending that statement as well :lol:

as i said originally, a total disgrace to the sport of shooting. i really dont think anything more needs to be said on this subject. with an attitude like that, should you really be shooting. how anyone can defend that statement is totally beyond me.

you're making this up aren't you please show me where i said this. sorry pabs, but i really cant take any more of this, unless of course you roll me one, of whatever it is you're smoking B) seriously though mate, i never said "you were a disgrace to the sport" i said "you were a disgrace to the sport of shooting, with that attitude and mentality" and was referring to your comment "you got a job to do and dont mind the rabbit maybe making it back to the warren to die 60 odd seconds later" which i highlighted in red to show that this was the ONLY comment i was referring to. you stated, that taking heart/lung shots was ok as long as you dont mind the rabbit maybe taking 60 seconds to die. sorry mate but thats totally unacceptable. if we're going to point a gun at summat with a view to killing it, then we must do our best to switch it off as instantly as possible, for legal, as well as humane reasons. of course we are all capable of occasionally fluffing a shot that may not result in an instant kill, sludge happens. please re-read my posts pabs, and you'll find that nowhere have i said that i'm for or against heart/lung shots, but just for the record, i take head shots. i have taken heart/lung shots but MY view is head shots are far more effective/humane on rabbits. i'll disregard your comments about the stunt you ASSUMED i was going to pull concerning rimfire, and the classic jump on the bandwagon type comment, and your view that i dont know what i'm talking about, because these are just inane ramblings to try and justify that you DONT mind that a heart/lung shot can take 60 seconds for the rabbit to die, and I DO. a very poor mentality and attitude mate, and a very poor advert for airgunners. however, i have no doubts pabs, that without that attitude and mentality, you would/could be a credit to the sport of shooting. right i'm off for a crafty fag now. regards.

very good mate you assumed quite a lot, and you answered questions that i never asked. however, you never answered my question of "how much per hour you charge these farmers" for, in your words, eradicating these rabbits. they must pay you well if the situation is so desperate that you find it necessary to, again in your words, " you got a job to do and dont mind the rabbit maybe making it back to the warren to die 60 odd seconds later " so how much do you get paid ??, or are you just one of these shooters who just pretends its a job, and likes telling other shooters that "you're doing a job" to appear better than them, and adds more weight to your views on heart/lung shots. a lot of this so called "leisure" shooting that you seem to mock, is often the result of a shooter tackling a rabbit problem, getting the numbers to an acceptable level, and then paying regular-ish visits to keep the numbers at an acceptable level. you mention your tactic of plotting up 40yds away, try plotting up a bit closer and make it easier for yourself. they'll come out just the same at 30 yds. show me a farmer who will pay you to shoot rabbits with an air rifle, and i'll show him 100 shooters who'd do it for nowt, and probably do it equally as well in all honesty. right mate, you can twist my words and misquote me all you like now, i've had enough :lol: as i said pabs, no hard feelings or axe to grind. take care and most of all enjoy your shooting

ok pabs you win mate :lol: even though you're twisting things around and cheating carry on arguing amongst yourself. no hard feelings or axe to grind regards

you thinks wrong pabs, i've lived in the real world for 55 years and shot living things in it for 43 of em. i dont know where you get the idea that i'm a head shot only shooter from, because i only criticized your comment "you got a job to do and dont mind the rabbit maybe making it back to the warren to die 60 odd seconds later" i made no other comment, so you're just assuming that i'm an anti heart/lung shooter. you seem very keen to mock "always take head shot chaps", "weekend shooters" who only shoot 3 rabbits all day, stalky stalky thang etc. well believe it or not, that is the "real world" for many shooters. i'm lucky to have a fair few shoots with numbers on them, but not all perms are teeming with rabbits. many shooters only have access to perms with no numbers on them, so the "stalky stalky thang" is top method. you could turn up on these shoots and inspect it all you want, locate as many good vantage points as you want, do your rangefinder readings, plot up wherever you want, and you'd eliminate nowt mate. that is the real world for most people pabs. there's too many shooters who are lucky enough to get a shoot or 2 with numbers on, and then go around claiming "i'm on a clearance job", "i got a culling job", i'm on an elimination job" etc. i suppose it makes them feel more important than weekend shooters. i've dismantled the population of a few of watership downs, but never viewed it as a job, just a hobby. how much per hour do you charge these farmers for this "job to do where its so important to shoot them, that you dont mind them maybe making it back to the warren to die 60 odd seconds later" regards

i'm sorry to say, but you're a disgrace to the sport of shooting with that attitude & mentality mate.

your barrel hasn't got a problem mate, its just an air rifle barrel being a .......well.....air rifle barrel i suppose. some are pellet fussy, some aren't. some need cleaning, some dont. mine needs cleaning every 400 or so shots. it lets me know when it needs cleaning because the group size opens up to 5p size @ 30yds instead of ragged 1 hole groups (bench rested) i've never had a springer that needed the barrel cleaning, but pcp's have all needed doing, some every few hundred and some every few thousand. each barrel is different so you need to count your shots from cleaning until it needs doing again, then you'll know.

jsb exact and aa fields are similar, but not the same pellet. air arms no longer pay jsb's asking price, but tell jsb what they are willing to pay, so the pellets are made to that price. i used the old aa fields for about 5 years with no problems, but found the "new" pellets weren't as good in my s400. switched to jsb exact 18 months ago. i cant see jsb putting someone elses name on their best pellets. all pellets, no matter who makes them or how well made they are wont suit every barrel.

if it isnt an issue with the valve it soon will be :lol: put your standard spring back in. pm sent.

something not right there mate. should be able to get 50 shots with a 10fps spread from a 400/410. i'm 99% sure the problem is hammer/hammer rail related or the valve is sticking. empty the gun and strip it down. check that the hammer runs VERY freely on the rail. if it doesn't it could be the slightest bit of oil,grease,crud etc on the rail. could need a rub with mega fine wet n dry and polishing and check the bush in the hammer isn't worn. then check that the valve isn't sticking. it should drop VERY freely into the firing pot. when they've been hit by the hammer thousands of times they can distort/bend. if a polish with very fine wet n dry doesn't get it running freely you may need a new one. be careful not to damage the valve seat when polishing. also well worth polishing the ends of the hammer and valve springs with fine emery cloth before re assembling. pm me if you need owt.

just get it chrono'd mate else you'll be chasing shadows and guessing. vulcans are full power guns and can shoot 11-11.5 ft/lbs all day long. if yours isn't doing those power levels then there's summat up and it needs a service. could be summat simple like the lubrication inside has dried up a bit, or it could be summat that wont do the gun any good if you keep firing it. good luck

sounds to me like you're canting the gun slightly. you'd be suprised how canting by even half a mm can cause the shot to strike to the side that you're canting to. its a more common fault than people think, especially when shooting bench rested. if we dont get mm perfectly behind the gun when its rested we tend to pull the gun very slightly to our cheek to line it up, canting the gun slightly in the process. might be worth checking that your scope is true vertical with a plumbline, then the next time you are shooting and it shoots a couple of clicks to one side, have a plumbline set up by the target to check against. the human eye is easily fooled by looking through scopes. try this test. draw a vertical line on a card and shoot at it. then tilt the target very slightly to one side and shoot. most shooters eyes will fool them into canting the gun to match the slightly offset vertical line, and they'll shoot a couple of clicks to the same side that the target is leaning to. hope that makes sense, as its worth a try and could confirm that there's nowt wrong with your scope. also remember that a 1 or 2 mph wind will be virtually undetectable, yet will cause pellets to drift as much as 3/4" at 50 yards. good luck.

julian on AAOC is your best bet

more than likely the pellets are clipping one of the plastic baffle thingy's inside. undo the rear cap a few turns and re-align them with a knitting needle. re-tighten slowly, looking down the silencer to make sure none of them move. should sort it.

kill zone on a rabbit is 18mm (smaller on kits, birds heads, and squirrels). the range at which a shooter can hit this size target EVERY time should be their maximum hunting range. using sticks will increase this range. put 20 discs (a mix of 12mm, 15mm and 18mm) at various ranges from 10-45 yds, and there wont be many shooters who clear the field shooting free standing using sticks, bipods etc greatly reduces the risk of wounding, and will put more game in the bag

hold the gun in your usual hold and resting your hand in/on the sticks seems to help with any springers that are hold sensitive.

3 vee blocks, a clamp, and a table, and look down the barrel as you apply pressure with the clamp. you have to judge the springback when you release the clamp. looking down the barrel you'll see where it needs the clamp to be

no need to change pellets for different quarry. find the most accurate pellet for your gun and enjoy your shooting. a rats brain is little more than the size of a pea, so accuracy is what stops them not gimmicky pellets. .177 jsb exact is the most accurate/consistent pellet in my gun, and is more than a match for airgun quarry.

check it over a chrono, then you'll know exactly what its doing.

i've never noticed any difference between .177 and .22 in terms of ability to kill effectively. both calibres have more than enough power to kill cleanly beyond our maximum range in terms of accuracy. it is often said that a 1" kill zone is the required accuracy, but the brain cavity of a full grown rabbit is 3/4" (there's a pic on youtube of someone holding a ruler against a rabbit skull). the kill zone on kits, squirrels, and birds heads is less than 3/4", so i reckon accuracy is the problem for runners, not power/calibre. if you hit a rabbit a few mm low it'll try to run, but go round in circles a few times before keeling over, but if you hit it 1" low it'll run off unless you're lucky enough to hit the spinal column. there's a few airgunners who take squirrels and woodies with heart/lung shots effectively, as they present a bigger and steadier target. not tried it on squirrels but woodies, side on, just in front of the wing is effective enough. i think shooting in a crosswind, even very slight, is the biggest cause of inaccuracy with air rifles. you can't beat a good .177 v .22 debate :lol:

shooting magpies around farm buildings is not as difficult as you might think. the trick is get hidden well back inside a building. too many shooters give the game away by standing just inside a door/window, the magpies easily clock you, and are then credited with having more superpowers than they already have. imitating the magpie call with pellets in a tub/box of matches can work, but i never use it as i find they spot much less movement than it takes to shake them. you may laugh at this, but frozen oven chips scattered around the farmyard is one of the best things to "bait" them with. dont worry if they nick the chips and you dont get a shot, as they'll keep coming back for a look long after the chips have gone, and they'll present a steadier shot when perched on the roof of a building looking for chips, than when they're flying in and grabbing them. i use headshots only for this type of shooting as you want them to drop where you shoot them so that other magpies are drawn to them, as the best thing to "bait" magpies with is a dead un. i've shot 157 at my best magpie farmyard shoot in the last 4 years (4 times as many as the farmer has got in his larsen) however, should you decide to set up shop out in the fields and hedgerows, you'll be in the magpies backyard, and you'll be runner-up most of the time

i use the .410 a fair bit, had a webley & scott b/a for years.as it only fired 2 1/2" cartridges it was a 20 yd gun. it shot nice even patterns with most carts, but the pattern wasn't reliable enough for live quarry at 25 yds. had a bsa (made in spain) 3" single which threw reasonable patterns @ 20 yds with 2 1/2" carts, but was awful with 3" carts. just before xmas i decided to get a brand new biakal single (£189.99). i'd had one before, and looking back should never have got rid of it. will be doing a more in depth pattern test very soon with 3" gamebore, lyalvale and eley. i'll have to try the new eley .410 trap 3" carts (19grm no. 7 1/2 shot), as they should throw a dense pattern to 30 yds.

cheers for the welcome.

kidsgrove mate, not a million miles away