1066
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Posts posted by 1066
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We have a Labradar in our club - It's an excellent bit of kit, even if a bit temperamental, but at around £600 is a bit pricy.
Personally I have a Chrony F1 and used it for airgun, rimfire and centrefire with no problems.
It's easy to make up a simple button on an extension lead with a 3.5mm jack to access a lot more information like ES, Average, SD, etc.
Around £115 from John Knibb/Uttings and similar.
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Following this with interest - Those French circular movements are incredibly well made, a real precision job and capable of keeping excellent time.
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Just love that - what a time to have been a firearms tinkerer, very few restrictions and a whole new field of development opening up at a rapid pace.
How many nights did the designer of this mechanism toss and turn while sorting out the details in his head?
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How about beech - should be more available and is often use for cheaper stocks. Have you checked the rifle is a shooter? Be a pity to spend many hours making a cracking stock then finding it needs a new barrel.
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Great project - really need an axe to go with that.
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46 minutes ago, phaedra1106 said:
Don't bother it's a complete waste of time. A properly sized bullet of the correct harness will shoot perfectly well
+1 Why would you want to do it? Does it make them more accurate/cheaper/quicker to make? This seems to be a fashion that serves little useful purpose (other than bling). I remember when moly coating bullets was a "thing" was going to revolutionise longrange shooting - who does it now?
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I would suggest the first thing is to do some research in your local area to see what clubs are local to you, what their facilities are and if what they offer is the sort of thing you would be interested in.
However - Just at the moment about every club is shut down and although some have a website many don't so it may be difficult to get much information.
Some clubs are exclusively smallbore (.22lr) and specialise in formal competition target shooting, others offer more of a mixed bag of shooting, maybe lightweight sporting rifle, long barrelled pistols etc.
Usual routine would be to join a club and sign up as a probationary member, attend regularly for 3-6 months, become a full member, then apply for your FAC stating what suitable firearms you require. - pay your fee, get a medical note and wait several more weeks/months. One you have your FAC in the bag, spend your money,
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I used exactly the same - I bought a bundle of 10 x 1.8m - Just ripped them down the middle to make the slats.
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Decking log store done - about £40 total using some Wickes decking board I've had sitting around to make a gate for the side of the house.
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I need a small log store for a woodburner in my workshop. I've got a bit of decking spare and can't really get out to buy anything else so will see if I can cobble something together.
On another note - I've always thought the electric chainsaws a bit girly, however, on the recommendation of a mate and huffing and puffing over temperamental two strokes I bought a £50 jobbie from Screwfix - Really quite pleased.
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Excellent job - Certainly agree with the concept of "use what you've got". You see many people want exact parts lists and asking for detailed drawings/plans etc. when you really need to understand the concept and adapt the design to use what's locally available.
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Regularly use my old 1965 BSA Airsporter I've had from new - also got a couple of 1920's "L" BSA pattern underleavers for plinking.
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7 hours ago, Lloyd90 said:
Damn good shooting, is that open sights? I will have to start wearing my glasses I think.
Thank you but no, unfortunately the 70 year old peepers struggle a bit now with open sights - I have a little White Tail classic 2.5-5 x 20 scope on the Winchester. It's a pleasure to shoot using low load of Unique with a cast 158gn bullet.
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Rather than just blackpowder pistols, the same rules apply to "muzzle loading" pistols. These are a whole new ball game. They are modern revolvers, shooting ordinary nitro smokeless powder and shoot a regular .38/.357 type lead bullet, in fact, once loaded you wouldn't know you weren't shooting a regular .38 revolver.
The only difference is the cylinder is removed and the bullets loaded from the front of the cylinder, these are ignited with a shotgun primer. They are quite quick to load, accurate, cheap to run and require no more cleaning that any usual pistol.
Although there are others these seem to be well regarded:
http://www.westlakeengineering.com/products/
Apart from a couple of BP pistols I also have an unusual ML nitro competition 5 shot pistol:
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I shoot these competitions regularly with both my Winchester 64AE in .357 mag and either my very old Voere semi-auto or Sako finnfire 22lr. Although there are various competitions the usual NSRA type are shot at 20 or 25 yards, free standing, no sling allowed and often different classification for open sights or optics.
The ones I shoot are what you might call "open" class so optical sights can be used, slow fire, so very little time pressure. The large bore (.38/.357/.44 etc) are shot on PL12 NSRA cards with a black of 14cm's. The .22lr are shot on the PL14 targets with a black of about 9cm.
As already said - practice, practice and more practice - try and think about each shot, why it was good or bad, don't be content to just whack them down the range and hope for the best.
I think the biggest factor that loses the most points, when shooting offhand, is trigger control - a slow squeeze directly back in line with the barrel. The shot might end up as an 8 because you are wobbling about a bit but trying to snatch the trigger as you float past the bull will often give you a 4.
If it was easy it would be no fun.
Here's a 99 I shot offhand a couple of weeks ago with my .357.
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Thank you chaps - Happy to help if anyone wants to have a go.
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4 hours ago, spandit said:
I doubt I could do that even with my wad cutter set
Disappointing thing is, 40 years ago I could do it on my elbows with a sling and aperture sights, now I need a bench and a scope.
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7 hours ago, spandit said:
I've known of your skill for some time but you never cease to amaze me...
You're too kind Spandit, but thank you.
The old BSA Martini's are still greatly undervalued, although the prices of good ones has gone up considerably over the last couple of years. These were used as club rifles in their thousands for donkeys years, the Mod 12, 12/15 and then the International Mk1, 2,3,4,5 from the 1950's to around the mid 1980's
They still shoot extremely well and with the rising popularity of .22lr benchrest competitions you can set yourself up with a competitive outfit for not a lot of money.
My 40 year old Mk 5 still going well
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I do a bit in the workshop now and again. Type 2 anodising is quite easy, just an old 4 amp battery charger works but I have also used a 10 amp computer power supply.
Sulphuric acid, I use "one shot" drain cleaner. Quite ok in a plastic Tupperware type container.
Caustic soda (again ok in plastic container)
Dye bath (plastic container)
Something to boil the finished part in for about 10-15 minutes. I use an old steam wallpaper stripper with the top cut off.
Originally I used Dylon fabric dyes but find spending £10 on pukka dye is well worth while
This is the best guide I've found to home anodising.
http://astro.neutral.org/anodise5.shtml
Here are some scope mounts I've recently made to fit the old BSA Martini target rifles.
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45 minutes ago, NoBodyImportant said:
In America any gun made before 1898 or replica, or and muzzle loading weapon aren’t considered firearms. Guns manufactured after 1898 but are 50 years old (rolling calendar year) are firearms but considered curios and relics and can be shipped straight to your house alone with government surplus guns that are purchased CMP. But I bet that’s about to change as some older Ar15s qualifies as C&R exempt. I just ordered a M1 garand in 30/06 and one in 308 from Uncle Sam but I’m hearing ship times are like 3-6 months and they don’t offer tracking.
Interesting - So, are you saying something like a Colt Python, designed in the mid 1950's, now around 70 years old comes under this 50 year rule and something like a .44 Auto-Mag designed and produced almost 50 years ago will also soon qualify? and of course, a Colt 1911 at well over 100 year old would qualify as a curio or relic?
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Hi William Bonney - I see this is your first post on this forum so welcome, although I think an introduction in the welcome page might be in order.
The Winchester 1887 was a poor design in the first place but you are correct, as with other pump and semi-auto shotguns they could have been held on a shotgun licence prior to 1988, after that date the magazine capacity was limited to 2+1 unless held on a FAC certificate.
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Need a variation on your certificate with authority to acquire. I have a spare barrel for my Saki Finnfire.
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Obviously not what you're looking for at all, but I've been pleased with some little plaques I just had engraved, very cheap and quick and very helpful. Ideal for club trophies etc.
Work out at about a quid each. Inlet into some scope mounts I'm making for BSA Martini Internationals.
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12 hours ago, Lord Geordie said:
Thanks, found one for under £1.12 so took a punt on that. Never heard anything like this motor. I greased the gears in the small gearbox but the racket it makes is so loud it drowns out the music. The motor is far too fast for the intended purpose. I have a few other slow geared motors, but they will not retrofit due to their layout. The only option is to slow the existing motor down. Should be interesting playing with the speed controller.
The PWM controllers normally work well - I've used several different types in my case annealing machines. However with your little 3v motor you may find that there's not really enough load to modulate properly. If minimum speed is still too fast you might try putting something like a car stop light in series with the motor to give it something to work with.
50meter group cci hollow points .22lr
in Bullets, Cartridges and Reloading
Posted
That was an eye opening thread that ran for a good while. My point, when I posted the original targets was to show that a single group proved very little, and a three shot group even less.
I've seen many claims "My ****** .22lr consistently shoot's less than an inch at 100yds" but in my experience, one inch 5 shot groups happen, but not consistently unless you are using quite sophisticated equipment and lot tested match ammunition.
After shooting hundreds of .22lr groups with a variety of rifles and ammunition, my feeling is that in good conditions a good rifle, with good ammunition, with an experienced shooter shooting from a solid position can average about 1.25" at 100yds. For every 1" group there's just a likely to be a 1.5" group
At 50 yards the groups should be a little better than half that.
This is the target I posted showing how easy it was to select good groups and make wild claims - This is 30 consecutive shots at 68 yards with my Sako Finnfire with Eley subsonic HP's, two good groups at about .5moa and four groups about average.