Baldrick Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 Isn't stripping down and oiling a laminated stock very difficult? I'd imagine that with the nature of the bonded wood that the oil wouldn't be absorbed consistently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 OK It was supposed to be a joke but maybe a bit toooo subtle If I had a picture of my gun with it's abs stock I would have put that up That laminate stock is for sale BTW, but from what I have learnt PW members are a bit 'careful' with their money, so I am not expecting to sell it here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 OK It was supposed to be a joke but maybe a bit toooo subtle If I had a picture of my gun with it's abs stock I would have put that up That laminate stock is for sale BTW, but from what I have learnt PW members are a bit 'careful' with their money, so I am not expecting to sell it here! Jokes are only funny if you get them...and as for 'careful with their money' tighter than a witches **** springs to mind Mind you there's plenty on here who like showing off their (expensive) toys so maybe it pays to be mean (did I really say that ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 (edited) Jokes are only funny if you get them And never funny when you have to explain them, ask any blonde Edited January 11, 2006 by stuartp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc M Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 And for my next project! Beautiful rifle there Stuart, what make/model/calibre is it if you don't mind me asking please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 (edited) It is, or was, a Tikka 695 Stainless Lamintae in 6.5 x 55, and to be honest when I first saw it my reaction was the same as yours and others Marc, I just had to have it I have taken the laminate stock off it and replaced it with an ABS one now, as it weighed a ton and I was afraid to get it damaged. I will stick it back on one day, or flog it and get a fibreglass McMillan. As you can gather I am not a wood/blue person when it comes to rifles. Edited January 11, 2006 by stuartp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Dog Posted January 12, 2006 Report Share Posted January 12, 2006 Really nice rifle stuartp. A view points I would like to make as a carpenter/woodturner who had a small furniture manufacturing business for a while. 1. If you are using old finishes, make sure the wood is dence/hard b4 you start. Oils are for hard wood not to porous. other wise you will never get a finish never mind a good finish. If you find out the wood is very porous, dye and apply a thin coat of sanding sealer. Make sure it is compatable with the final finish material. 2. If using tun oils, carful, it has carcinogenic qualities in it. Do not use bare skin to rub in. Old wifes tail that the hand can do a better job than modern product. Use a french polishers ball, chamois rubber style (cant spell it). 3. If you are using a varnish/Lacquer style, spray it if possible. It will alway look better with less work. Grantite do good Pre-Catalyst Lacquers in Satin, matt and gloss. 4. Alway dye to wood before applying the finish, never with the finish. Apply first - the more finish you apply the deeper it looks. Apply with - it acts like a paint, cancels out the grain and the wood and leave a fake finished. A trick use in **** furniture to hid what is below and speed up the overall job. 5. Technically if you wet wood, you raise the grain, which need to be rubbed back with sandpaper. Sandpaper is a TOOL. So use it well. Your stock should not be rough so starting with 240 grit should be fine. Work down the grits; 320 even down to 400. I normally finish woodturning stuff at 320. what ever grade you start with work down the grits slowly. Never jump from e.g. 120 to 320. This will not work. Wach grade should take out any marks left by the grit used b4. If any mark is left, do not go on down the grits, it wont work. You must return to the proper grit and start from there. Do not use paper if you can help it, can make work. Get a cloth backed type. Any good hard ware shop will have it. Look for a woodturner or carvers supply store. http://www.craft-supplies.co.uk/ N.Irish lads, "Jackey Browns" Ballinahince Co.Down. Cloth back abrassives are the bees knees. Last for ever, flexible, wont mark, quality great, can be torn into small picies and glued to small bit of wood to make abbrassive tools. Just my thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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