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Pellets clipping the silencer on stealth ?


Jon-Boy
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The Barrels for these are prone to poor finishes

 

First check how many Landz there are in the barrel (Landz = rifleing lines)

 

If there is only 6 you have a duff barrell from the first gen of Stealth

 

If more than 6-8 you have the LW barrel and it should be OK

 

Also how tight are the pellets when you insert them? If they are slack and they fall in that could also be attributing to the problem

 

The barrels are somtimes parted 24" barrels and they tend to miss recrowning the muzzle so take a closer look at the muzzle end and you SHOULD be able to see a very small champhered edge leading into the muzzle at about 30 to 45 degrees

 

Also as others have posted it COULD be valve inconsistency caused by hammer chatter.

 

Is the hammer greased or inside the frame greased or gummed up.

 

These guns HATE grease as it causes drag and the grease or oil picks up dirt and causes drag also they prefer to be run dry

 

If it was barrel bushes coming loose i would have thought it would be inconsistent with EVERY shot :blink:

 

The end ring for the silencer could STILL be missaligned even though you think the silencer sits flush. Loosen the screws when you have the silencer in and make sure the butt end of the silencer is flush with the frame and nip it up again.

 

What are your seals like in the breech? Are there any in the breech :blink:

 

Are they a snug fit over the tophat?

 

What is your hammer made of? The Delrin (black plastic ones) were a pain in the *** i went for Alluminium but others choose brass as hammer material (i find brass too heavy and causes damage to the bottle ring grubscrew seat.

 

Have you chrono'd it to check consistency of power?

 

There are a load of things you can check but I would personally look at consistency before going any further

 

JMHO

 

Lord Geordie

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thanks for all that lord geordie, Much appreicated.

 

I have checked the barrel, it has 11 rifling grooves and has a beveled crown. I have got wd40 on the hammer weight, which is metal. So ill clean this off soon as.

 

im worried that there is valve incosistency at the valve itself.. I shouldnt be saying this on here really but... I dropped the valve on its head a few months after i bought it and had to replace the tophat and valve stem with one from the states..

 

They said it would be uk legal but im sure its kicking out a little more.

 

Ive restricted the top hat movement to bring it down, this could cause the problem?

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There is NOTHING wrong in using US parts as long as you have crippled the valve to 12FPE or below preferable to stay legal

 

I had mine bored out by Leupy and ported to help consistency and an alloy hammer fitted it is lighter and reaches it's velocity quicker and easier and theoretically leads to more consistent hammer strikes on the valve.

 

Gunpower or Airforce weapons are designed for FAC power and don't really perform well at 12FPE without quite a bit of fettling :blink:

 

It's not so much cost as time consuming tweaking and adjusting to get perfect. Mine has had a fair bit of love poured into it to get it where it is now.

 

Take a trip to the

 

www.talonownersgroup.com

 

if you have not already visited.

 

Good info from like minded people

 

Lord Geordie

Edited by Lord Geordie
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