coupe312 Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 My ess duncan won't stop pulling when on the lead. he is a good as gold of the lead but on he is a pain. he is no as bad with me as he is with the kids and her in doors. any idea's tryed a halty thing, still pulls with his neck twisted :*) :*) . thing is when i have to work away and kid need to take him a walk the lead cuts into there hands. i have paper for him but i'm sure he is half bull he has such a large chest for a 7 months pup. had 3 welsh spainels before but duncan is so stocky anyway how do i stop duncan pulling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 If this doesn't work let me know, also what kind of collar and lead are you using? Teaching the Heel Command Before teaching the heel command with an older dog, 5 months or more, consider whether you want the dog to look up at you while heeling. If you do,you need to teach him to catch a treat from your mouth. To do this, have your dog on a lead at your left side. If he knows the sit command; sit him. Have a treat in your mouth and make a "click" noise with your tongue. When he looks up spit the treat to him. He must catch the treat to get it. If he misses do not allow him to pick the treat up from the ground. Pick it up and repeat the drill. When he does catch praise with "good boy". Repeat until he catches reliably, he will now look up at you during training as long as you continue to deliver his rewards in this manner. Before training the heel, you must teach the dog to accept the leash. This is done by putting pup on a four foot lead; while you stand still in one place. As the pup gets to the end of the lead, give a pop and release. Continue this until pup realizes that you expect him not to pull on the lead. If he hits the end of the lead, say "phewy" with the pop on the leash and "good boy" when the lead goes slack. Remember to work 360 degrees and to add distractions as your pup understands the exercise. Week 1-2 Starting heeling is the same for both the puppy and the older dog. Start by having your pup on your left side and your lead bunched in your left hand. Hold the treat in your right hand four inches off your pups muzzle. Give the command "heel" STEP OFF ON YOUR LEFT FOOT at the same time. Pup will follow the treat forward. Use the treat to control the pups position; you want his head even with your left leg. Go forward 25 feet, pivot 180 degrees, turning on your right foot. As you come out of your pivot, toss the treat forward on the ground and allow the pup to surge forward to get the treat. Praise your pup and pet him up before repeating the exercise. Weeks 3-4 This is where teaching your pup to catch the treat comes to the forfront. By now, your pup will sit beside you reliably. If your pup is not sitting reliably, do not move on. Start with your pup sitting, step off with your left foot saying "heel" at the same time. Pup will follow you, take 5 or 6 steps, click and spit the treat. Your pup must catch the treat. If he catches, heel another 5 to 6 steps, click and spit a treat. If he catches, continue forward 3 to 4 steps and make a 90 degree turn to the right. 1-2 steps click and give a treat. Release him with "all right", praise with "good boy" and play with him for 2-3 minutes. If he misses the treat, pick it up and continue forward. If he continues to miss, stop your heeling exercise and practice his catching. Remember to end on a positive note. Weeks 5-8 Continue as in weeks 3-4, however start decreasing the number of treats you are using. Also add an about face; this is a 180 degree turn. Your pup should follow you around as you pivot, having been taught this during weeks 1-2. If he lags behind during the turn, use a treat to motivate him forward again. This may mean going back to tossing treats during the pivot for a day or two. Remember this is an outline not all dogs learn in a given number of days. If pup is lagging during straight heeling, motivate with "good boy, thata pup". You may need to show him a treat to bring him back into position. If pup starts to forge ahead, change direction by 90 to 180 degrees and give a light pop on the lead. Remember to change direction by pivoting on your right foot. Heeling is started with your left foot forward, while turns are initiated with your right leg. Points to Remember - Not all dogs like cookie treats. experiment with different foods until you find one he is nuts over. ex hot dogs, cookies, cooked liver, beef jerky - Treats are very small; you are rewarding him not feeding him - If your dog has a favourite toy that he is crazy over, you can use it instead of treats - Corrections are made with a LIGHT pop; not a steady pulling motion, pop release, pop, release. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old rooster Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 Bet you can't wait to start spitting those cooked liver treats coupe :o NTTF is the man here for dog tips, I'll be badgering him for more info in due course I've no doubt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 George; I use to train for trials, however 3 little boys under the age of 12 has put an end to that for the time being. I am looking at possibly trialing my Standard Poodle this next spring though. I train for the hunting field mostly now . Working flushers, pointers, retrievers, and hounds. My boys help me in this. As to throwing thing for dogs to retrieve causing snatching or grabbing, not at all if you teach your dog manners....he is to bring it back and sit , giving it when told to. I also give what I call a free play time means the dog does not have to sit while I throw , can break as soon as it sees the ball or bumper leave my hand, and can toss the ball to me. I have never had any of these exercises contribute to bad behaviour in a hunting dog. I have had alot of very happy retrievers, pointers, and hounds though. The trick is to give everything you are doing a command. When it is free time for my dogs they are told freebies. If you were made to run your favourite pass time, say hunting, as a drill every time you went out, never being allowed to deviate from it, you would very soon become boared stiff of it and it would soon become your least favourite pass time. Think how the dog would feel if it was work everytime it went out to play. As for pulling and stopping to teach a dog to heel , I disagree with it. I personally do not find teaching a dog to stop helps with heeling. However if you take that exercise and give a quick pop on the leash and turn 180 degree in the opposite direction, and then turn back in 20 feet, as long as the dog is not pulling, they quickly learn that pulling is not allowed. In other words everytime the dog pulls pop the lead and change direction. Now that said you still need to teach the lead control, and give some basics to heeling as outlined above. Hope that helps NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 George; No offence taken, it did not even entre my mind that you were saying I was wrong. As to methods that work for you, all I can say is use them, no training program fits all dogs. As a trainer I constantly re evaluate each dog and change accordingly. The most important piece of advice I can give you or anyone else is keep it fun for both you and the dog. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurcherboy Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 NTTF you have PM LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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