Defender rust treatment question

[ack-ack]

Looks like next week the 110 will finally be coming back from the slowest spanner in the south east. Went up to have a look yesterday and have decided it needs a smarten up. The chassis is very sound but there is surface rust on the rear cross member. Its an ex Thames water van so its had its fair share of exposure to brackish water. The external areas can obviously be reached but its got internal surfaces also that are not easily accessible. I dont want to just paint over the top so what is the best way of neutralising the surface rust within the nooks and crannies and subsequently painting? Could I go straight in with an etch primer and top coat as normal?

 

Cheers

Edited May 31, 2013 by ack-ack

[goldypurple]

Before and after very good, they advertise In all the Landy mags,

 

Wax oil mixed with old oil also good

 

The same as dentrol think that's what's it called.

 

But you can't beat galvanising!!!

[ditchman]

i have mine steamcleaned, and flakes of paint on the chassis were blown off. the chassis dried over the next day or so and then 2 coats of waxoyl were blown over it, the waxoyl was hot and penertrated everywhere....the vehicle is 26 years old and is very sound...im not too keen on the idea of painting rusty areas on the chassis with primer and stuff my idea is to totally de-grease and remove loose stuff and let the oil penitrate everywhere...if the rear crossmember is tatty then a paint or spray job is in order as you can get to it easily.

 

Couple of points to remember is

• make sure the rubber plugs are in the front of the chassis, this prevents most water going into the chassis
• make sure after you have waxoyled the drain holes in the bottom of the chassis are open

what i have learnt over the years is whatever you paint bare steel or other wise is to make sure it is properly de-greased, and 2 coats of thinned primer are better than one straight out of the can.

 

im not a paint expert so there should be lads on the forum with more knowledge than me to advise you.

[sable]

hello dont use old oil it is corosive steam clean when its dry mebon it this will stop corision and cure any rust then waxoil after that you can drive it across the north sea it will not rot ever

[ack-ack]

For cavities I will eventually go down the waxoyl type product route but I intend to repaint the rear X member black as per original finish. The problem is creating a suitable surface to paint. In the past I have just toshed on a bit of Kurust and then primed and top coated but its not possible to prep the nooks of the RXM that are visible from the rear of the vehicle.

 

Is there an etch primer that can be shot onto unprepped surfaces as it will not be possible to mechanically remove the surface rust from some areas?

[maxie]

You must be run off your feet in that new job of yours.

[ack-ack]

You must be run off your feet in that new job of yours.

 

Its in the firms interest. They're getting a second 4x4 for buttons.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If it ever does actually come back that is.

[mick miller]

Have a look at Hydrate 80. Applying it will be the issue (internally) although you could spray it in, it's a rust converter. I didn't use waxoyl I used 3M cavity wax in my chassis, seemed to get better reviews and was easy to apply if you have access to a compressor. As for the x-member, well, I think you'll only delay the inevitable with all this. I just opted to cut the old one off and had a new, heavy-duty (thicker steel) one shotblasted and zinc coated, then sprayed her up with thinned hammerite.

 

The nice thing about the zinc coating is it's hard as nails, some areas that have subsequently been scratched show no signs of rust forming again.

[lees]

Have a look at bilt hamber, they make treatments much better than wax oil, it was designed for oil rigs I believe.

[mick miller]

I think hydrate80 is bilt hammer.