Jump to content

Quietening an Anschutz 525 Action?


Frenchieboy
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have just been reading the thread by Spandit - http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/284827-convert-sa-22lr-into-ba/ - and would like to follow this up a little. I have an Anschutz 525 which I really enjoy using for a bit of "bunny bashing" whenever I get the chance to and feel like getting out. I have no issued with the accuracy of the rifle which has a 16" barrel which is fitted with a Sirocco SM11 moderator and firing Magtec subsonics which makes it relatively quiet while firing but I was wondering if it were possible to quieten the mechanism down in any way in a similar way to a 10/22 where they use some sort of rubber or fibre "buffering block" fitted on the back end of the mechanism.

Does anyone have any experience, thoughts or information on this idea please?

 

Edit: Maybe I should add that I am not wanting to take it away from being a Semi Auto and use it as a "semi Bolt Action", all I am interested in is a way (If there is one) to quieten down the mechanism while recycling on firing the rifle.

Edited by Frenchieboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good question.....maybe a degrease and stick a slither off plastic in the right spot.

I do not know the action my self but bet a plastic or leather stop could be experimented with!

That is a very good thought and they do say "Great minds think alike"!

I have just this minute finished reassembling the rifle. I stripped it down and fitted a round piece of 2mm thick neoprene on the back of the slide/action - This may in time need replacing with leather. The action still works exactly as it should and slides back the correct amount for the rifle to recycle properly. I have yet to try firing it to see if there is any reduction in the recycling noise but "on the bench" it really does seem to have quietened it down as I no longer have the bare metal "face to face" sound that I was getting before. Hopefully I will get a chance to check the zeroing as I decided to strip the entire rifle mechanism, trigger and barrel and everything else down and give it all a thouough clean and a touch of gun grease all at the same time.

Everything seems silky smooth (Better than it was before) so weather permitting I will find out what (if any) improvements I have made this evening as I am playing in a league a bowls match this afternoon - If this darned rain holds off!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what stops the bolt going back any further - might be that the recoil spring is fully compressed. I'll be taking mine apart today as want to refinish the stock so will have a look.

 

Do you find yours is accurate enough or are you tempted to change to a bolt action?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what stops the bolt going back any further - might be that the recoil spring is fully compressed. I'll be taking mine apart today as want to refinish the stock so will have a look.

 

Do you find yours is accurate enough or are you tempted to change to a bolt action?

Hi mate, I certainly find that mine will shoot much more accurately than can and up to reasonable ranges it will hold it's own against many Bolt Action .22LRs - Say out to about 75 yards or so for rabbits.

A little tip for you - Before you strip the action out of yours make sure that you have the right tool to reasemble it or you are going to have real trouble getting the return spring back in place. I will take a photo of the tool that came with the rifle for getting the return spring back in shortly and put it on thos post as an edit shortly. If you don't have the tool send me a PM with your postal details and I will send you mine to borrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks but I made a tool the last time! My spring is still a bit kinked which makes the cocking two stage but it doesn't affect the way it shoots.

 

I'd like to know if it's my technique or the rifle that is at fault as struggle to get decent accuracy with if. Good enough for a rabbit head at 50yds, but I'd struggle with a squirrel at that distance. Might try a bench rest

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks but I made a tool the last time! My spring is still a bit kinked which makes the cocking two stage but it doesn't affect the way it shoots.

 

I'd like to know if it's my technique or the rifle that is at fault as struggle to get decent accuracy with if. Good enough for a rabbit head at 50yds, but I'd struggle with a squirrel at that distance. Might try a bench rest

I don't have too much trouble with head shooting rabbits out to 75 yards with my 525, ammo, moderator and scope set up (The scope is Richter Optics 4-16 X 40 but I rarely take it up above around 9 or 10 times magnification) - I've not tried any squirrels yet, there aren't many on my permissions.

I had my 525 cut down to a 16" barrel, threaded and recrowned all at the same time by Dave Mercer - He is truly an expert at his job! The 16" barrel with the Sirocco moderator made a huge difference to the "handlability" of the rifle and I believe it did improve the accuracy a little. I have found that my 525 prefers Magtec subsonics above other types of ammunition (Funnily enough my 525 will not group well with Magtec High Velocities though - tends to put most shots with them high and right and also sprays them about a bit)) so a little inaccuracy with yours might be down to the ammo type you are using - And I am not saying that yours would be better with Magtec but it might be worth trying a few different types of ammo if you haven't done so already. Another thing worth checking is the crown, you would be surprised at how much the slightest flaw in the crown can effect accuracy.

If it were me I would be trying a few grouping tests with a bench rest or on a good and stable bipod (in the prone position) before trying anything else to check on accuracy/grouping at varying ranges - Say 50 yards, 60 yards, 70 yards and so on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried lots of different makes of ammo but my local RFD doesn't have a huge range.

 

Anyway, it's in bits now, down to component parts (apart from the trigger assembly and bolt assembly). Nitromors doesn't touch the varnish so I've got some tedious sanding to do. Going to oil finish the stock with tung oil, I think

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...