Dannydp Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 I have a friend with a exhibition stock and its been finished with bees wax by Tony White near Stafford. It looks really nice, I'd say better than most oil finishes I've seen. Does anyone know how it's done and weather something is applied first and the bees wax is just a top coat. I've found an oil finish if done correctly to be a lengthy process, is bees wax any quicker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike737 Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 I don't think anything is 'quick' if done properly... From a furniture restoration perspective, I would say that oil is a more durable finish. Just my opinion... Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 bees wax finish is better. Not faster to achieve but nicer and richer. I have just made up a new batch of traditional wax+oil finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannydp Posted August 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) I have just made up a new batch of traditional wax+oil finish The wax oil you use , does it contain bees wax? Is it applied the same as oil. Leave on for half an hour then remove all residue. bees wax finish is better. Not faster to achieve but nicer and richer. I have just made up a new batch of traditional wax+oil finish The wax oil you use , does it contain bees wax? Is it applied the same as oil. Leave on for half an hour then remove all residue. Edited August 10, 2014 by Dannydp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 The wax oil you use , does it contain bees wax? Is it applied the same as oil. Leave on for half an hour then remove all residue. The wax oil you use , does it contain bees wax? Is it applied the same as oil. Leave on for half an hour then remove all residue. get the heat going with your hand and yes, polish off all residue to allow that coat to harden. Bees wax yes. It would be good for leather also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 there should not really be much if any residue, if there is, you are putting too much on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannydp Posted August 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 there should not really be much if any residue, if there is, you are putting too much on Ok so now i feel I might be doing something wrong. With the oil finish I use I usually use a drop on my finger to rub over the stock leaving a coat of oil. After half an hour I remove what I put on and polish lightly with a lint free cloth. I have had good results but thought that the bees wax on my friends gun was smother and felt better in the hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 what oil are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bi9johnny Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 A mixture of boiled linseed , beeswax, and white spirit and rubbed in with the palm of the hand pref gaining some heat in doing so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannydp Posted August 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 what oil are you using? I'm unsure as it's my gunsmiths own blend. On the bottle it says thin with raw linseed oil. Apply sparingly and remove before it becomes sticky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 So it's an unknown then. Raw LO without driers will create a mess really. It needs to dry in between coats. Raw LO will not. I am sworn to secrecy with exactly what is in mine.... but I have made loads of stock finish and have an additional 17lb of bees wax sitting around of various natural colours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannydp Posted August 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 So it's an unknown then. Raw LO without driers will create a mess really. It needs to dry in between coats. Raw LO will not. I am sworn to secrecy with exactly what is in mine.... but I have made loads of stock finish and have an additional 17lb of bees wax sitting around of various natural colours. I knew about the raw LO not drying so assumed they were already in the mixture. What method of application do you use with your own mix. Is there any sort of buffing wheel involved in the process? I feel like I have my stripping process solved and now I'm on to perfecting filling grain and the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted August 11, 2014 Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 a dab on the fingertip then just hand rub and get it hot by friction. Very quick and simple really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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