Habit UK pigeon flapper

[wabbit warren]

hi guys a quick update on my habit uk flapper after nearly 2 weeks of emailing back and forward

finaly got it picked up by mail uk. wouldnt even give me there address

been promised my money back as soon as they get the flapper back but not holding my breath

in that time ive got a new 300rpm motor and fitted it into my old flapper

god its more like a sex toy than a flapper now

should pull the birds LOL

[Redditch]

I bought a second one LOL, but first thing I did before using it was change the motor/gearbox unit for a "proper one", and ordered a speed controller and timer.

Once you've done that they work okay.

But nothing beats an FF5 for reliability and smoothness.

These will do okay for in the really muddy fields on the crows, but do ne d spraying too, as that battleship grey is ****.

Also the rear gearbox housing of the flapper (not the motor gearbox unit itself, but the bits that join the arms), I filled with grease, and the arm tubes I dropped some TF2 Teflon oil down.

[Redditch]

So, tried the two "habit flappers" again yesterday, after I had done the relevant work on them.

One has a 1 metre length of 6mm rod and is mounted in a bouncer tube, so I can get lots of height on that one, and the other is mounted on a 1 metre length of 6mm rod with a piece of angle iron on the bottom as a securing spade.

Both now come over the top of the standing barley and wheat.

Both have had the motors replaced, with brass bushing "more expensive" (though still only £6-£9.00 off ebay) motor gearboxes doing 300rpm instead of the standard 100 rpm.

Both now have a timer, and a speed controller fitted.

Both have had their linkage housings filled with grease, and both have had the arm tubes dripped with Teflon TF2 oil.

Both now function perfectly.

NO, they aren't as good as an FF5 by far, but considering the second one only costs me £19.95 including postage on a "buy it now" I can't complain, as they do the job.

Banged down 83 yesterday (79 corvids and 4 pigeon) and only had the corvid decoys out.

So they DO work, so long as you change the motor gearbox as soon as getting them, and carry out other bits of upgrading.

Edited August 9, 2015 by Redditch

[The Juicer]

Redditch, I took the base screws out but it seams glued or something, how did you take it apart to get to the guts?

 

Also I've had no reply from the seller habit. Poor service that.

[Redditch]

Ohh, they are a clamp fitting too, I always use a hammer and screwdriver to just gently tap the rear linkage housing off.

Then there are two screws that hold the motor / gearbox unit in the tube.

First off, unscrew the screw that holds the linkage onto the gearbox shaft, and then remove the linkage.

Next remove the two screws holding the motor/gearbox unit. Remove the plastic cover off the FRONT of the motor gearbox housing (I use a flat bladed screwdriver to prise it out).

Then the motor/gearbox will just slide out. Desolder or clip off the wires from the old motor/gearbox, and then solder the wires onto the new motor/gearbox. The POSITIVE terminal in the motor has a red spot next to it, and that is what you solder the red wire to.

NEXT, put a small knot, or tie a tie wrap around the cable about ONE inch from the motor, so that the wire can't be pulled through the grommet once it's all back together.

Reassembly is the reverse.

First fit the motor/gearbox into the housing, and screw the two screws from the rear into the gearbox through the housing. Next put the plastic grommet back into the housing, with the known between the motor and the grommet.

NOW, refit the linkage, and together the screw (it's a ****** to get the screw tightened with the housing in the way, but it can be done, as I've done it twice now)

NOW, smear a good amount of grease over the linkage, and put grease into the rear cap of the linkage housing, so it's about 1/3-1/2 full.

Then replace the rear cap over the linkage, and screw the two screws into that.

Wipe off any excess grease, and then drop ONE drop of TF2 Teflon oil down each arm tube.

Now, get some "brake and clutch cleaner" spray, or other degreaser, and wet a bit of kitchen roll or rag with it. Use that to degrease the outside, and remove all grease and oil that is excess on the outside. Now spray paint according to what colour you wish it to be, (I sprayed mine black for corvid use).

Fit a timer and speed controller if you wish.

[Redditch]

So, talked Hoggyreels through the repair/upgrade, and his now seems to be working as its meant to.

I have TWO, and changed the motor gearbox on both, fitted a timer and speed controller to both, and one I've had out four times now, and the other twice. Each time that's been for 5-6 hours, continuous use, and no problems whatsoever.

 

Yep, the AREN'T as good as an FF4/FF5 but hell, the second one only cost me £19.95 postage inclusive.

 

Once they have a GOOD motor gearbox unit fitted, and the linkages greased, they work perfectly, and adding a timer and speed controller just makes them even better.

 

So, total costs ?

Original Habit UK Flapper £19.95

Replacement good motor £8.95

Timer. £ 9.95

Speed controller £2.75

 

Total costs (not counting labour) £41.60

 

If you shop around, you MIGHT get the timer cheaper, and also MIGHT, get another £3.00 off the motor too. However, make sure the motor has BRASS bush bearing in the shaft, as that will also have BRASS gears, not the plastic or cheap cast alloy of the original.

 

ALSO! Remember, you MUST break the wings of the shot bird (as close to the body as possible) as otherwise, when rigormortis sets in, the motor/gearbox WILL fail, no matter what make or model it is.

THIS IS A MUST DO.

 

So, Yep, another £15-20.00 and you could have an A1 turbo, another £80.00 and you could have an FF5

BUT, the point is, if you've already BOUGHT one, you've already spent the money, so DON'T bin it, as for £21.55 up CAN and SHOULD make a good working flapper.

The basic design isn't too bad, just let down by a very **** motor gearbox unit. If they had spent another £1.00 on a good motor during production in China, they would have had a lot of very happy customers

Edited August 12, 2015 by Redditch

[hoggysreels]

All mods carried out ... running well now. I've a second one l've yet to modify. Out tomorrow on the pigeon, will give it a proper run out ..

[The Juicer]

Ok thanks for that info. I will make the mods.

[Redditch]

One thing you WILL notice (but this is the same on all flappers) is that sometimes it won't "start" and this is usually because it's stuck at top or bot of the cam action. A gentle movement of the arms, and then it starts to move.

ALSO, although you can get them quite slow, you WILL NOT get them to go as slow as the FF4/FF5 does reliably, for the simple reason the design of the cam system is far too small. It's really designed for pigeon, whereas the FF4/FF5 have a much larger cam action, and hence can be slowed right down, which is ideal for corvids.

BUT, if you have one, they DO work with a little extra input from the purchaser, they just DON'T work as they come from the factory, or not for long LOL.

So, change the motor gearbox, add a timer and speed controller, and it's a reliable little flapper

[Redditch]

Ok thanks for that info. I will make the mods.

If you get stuck, just message me and I will run the mods through for you.

If you get REALLY stuck, pop down and I will do the mods for you, or send the bits to me, I will do the mods and send it back to you.

[Ray51]

Unfortunately got one of these from Habit before I read your posts, so I have now ordered a 300rpm replacement motor so I can hopefully get some use out of it.

Problem is not sure how you get the existing motor out, took retaining screws out of base but it does not want to come off, do you have to be fairly brutal with it?

also will I need to solder wires on to new motor?

If you could let me know how you sorted yours out

Cheers

[Redditch]

Okay, you take the TWO retaining screws out of the base, and then you get a flat bladed screwdriver, and a small hammer, and tap the bottom off GENTLY.

Once you've done that, you get a PHILIPS screwdriver and undo the retaining screw on the linkage that attaches to the motor shaft.

Once the linkage is removed, then you undo the TWO screws that hold the motor in (this is ALL in the base)

Now using the flat bladed screwdriver, prise off the plastic cap at the FRONT of the motor housing, and the motor will just slide out.

Now, with a 15-25 watt soldering iron, desolder the wires from the motor, and resolver the new motor onto the wires, RED cable goes to the tab with the red paint next to it, BLACK cable goes to the tab without any markings next to it.

Pull the cable and motor through the plastic cap (towards the motor) and put a small knot into the cable (NOT a very tight one) about 1/2-3/4 inch form the motor, then pull the cable back the other way so the knot buts up against the plastic cover.

Now test the motor to make sure it's running okay.

Once that's confirmed, put the motor back in the housing, align the holes and screw the two small screws back in. Then put the plastic cap back in the front of the motor housing.

NEXT put the linkage back on, and screw it up, making sure the screw goes tight into the FLAT part of the shaft.

Now, smear the linkage all over with GREASE, and fill the rear cover about 1/2 full with grease too. Now put the rear cover back on and screw into place.

Now get some kitchen roll, and spray some degreaser in that, and wipe the complet flapper down so NO grease is on the outside of it.

Allow to dry, and then spray to the colour you wish (a slightly darker grey for pigeon, or a mat or satin black for crows

Solder a speed control onto the wires of the flapper, then between the speed controller and the battery solder a timer.

Now all would be working properly

[Redditch]

okay, another problem with the HABIT flapper.

If running at any speed, even when you have correctly broken the wings, two thing can happen.

 

ONE, the spring washers which are designed to stop the wings slipping down the rods past the bend, comes loose, so the washers followed by the wings, end up half way down the rods.

The fix for this, get some epixy glue, push the washers into the correct position, and fill the cup of the washer with epoxy resin glue. Fast acting is the best for this.

 

TWO, the wings fly off the rods at the top of the stroke, often just on ONE side or the other.

The fix for this, get a pair of mole grips tightened onto the rod about half way along. Then with a pair of pliers, bend the rods at the bent part, so the bent part is pointing further out, and this should prevent this. It WILL mean that you can only affix the wings to the rods when at the top of the stroke, but hey, that's not a great problem.

The other fix for it would be to screw thread the bent part of the rod, and fit a castellated (fixed washer) nut onto it using loctite screw lock, but this would mean carrying a spanner with the flapper wherever you went.

 

DO NOT, expect these flappers to run as smoothly as an FF4 or FF5 from Flightline decoys at slow speed. There design means the cam action is a lot smaller than an FF4 or FF5, and hence are designed to run at a higher speed. Slower speed means as the battery starts to run down, so the action can't get over cam. This is inherent in the design, so if you want reliable slow speed, spend the money and get an FF4 or FF5 from Nick Tait at Flightline Decoys (you won't regret it)

 

I think I've covered everything now, any other problems let me know, and I'll see if I can come up with a fix for them

Edited August 22, 2015 by Redditch

[Redditch]

Right, today I did an "EXTENDED" test of the two habit flappers I "upgraded" !!

Was set up on the field by 05:30 and by 06:00 had a grey crow on the one, flapping VERY slowly, which it did none stop all day, as and when the timer kicked in

By 07:00 I had a woodpigeon too, so that was onto the second flapper, and at full speed.

 

Bother worked perfectly right up to the moment I switched them off and packed up at 14:00, so with the alterations as stated in previous posts, they become a very reliable little flapper.

TWO THINGS, to do once you've changed the motor/gearbox, and fitted a speed control and timer.

ONE, bend the hooked piece of the arms OUTWARD, so that when the arms are at the very top of the stroke, the "elbows" are pointing vertically up (as delivered they would normally be pointed inward when the arms were at topmost.

TWO, the spring washer cup on each arm at the "elbow", should be GLUED into place with epoxy two component resin. Once that's done the wings won't push them around the corner, and then the wings will be held correctly in place

Edited August 25, 2015 by Redditch

[hawkeye]

ive got the manual flapper...with a string............."ive been pullin it for 25 years and it aint come off--got loose--or broke yet"

 

Back to Pigeon Decoying Equipment

 

 

 

Bet you wear dark glasses, as i was always told pulling it makes you go blind and after 25yrs you must need a guide dog..

[Redditch]

So, they are still for sale on eBay, but now "bidding only" and with them being sold as used even though new. He also puts the explanation there that the makers used an inferior motor/gearbox unit, and that this WILL need changing, and gives the appropriate ebay number for a replacement one. So kudo's for that.

I have now bought yet ANOTHER LOL, and will again "upgrade it" with a new motor, as I have the other two.

I already have a spare speed controller (well two actually) so just need a timer, and another battery maybe (although I have some small batteries that would do the job at a push, I prefer 7ah ones for long days)

Now to order another can or two of paint, and get a stake made up

 

Once they are upgraded they work quite well, just remember when you've done the motor gearbox unit, and greased the linkage, TWIST the arms so that the hooks are vertically posing when at the top of the stroke, as otherwise the wings WILL fly off the arms in use

[Redditch]

I have fixed interval timers on the two I already have, but decided for the third I would try one of these. It can be on/off (remote) to 100 metres (max), or it can be a fixed interval, or a variable interval, and most important, it's a lot cheaper when you consider its got free p&p too

So I will use the two fixed ones for crow/corvid, and this variable one on/off for pigeon

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171906310547

Edited September 4, 2015 by Redditch

[dawntredder]

Ain't a flapper but a won a brand new magnet on eBay for £40 when I got it it was from them dodo's habit UK....was well made strong pretty much like any other you see....took it out on Sunday gone set up and set the magnet away,got halfway back to the hide and was crashing sound a turned round and it had fell to bits....what I mean is it the extended arms and airpros were on the deckit had stripped threads that attach the rotary to the motor!!! Disgracefull bizznizz....and them a1 airpros well what can I say ....... Useless!!!!

[Redditch]

Ain't a flapper but a won a brand new magnet on eBay for £40 when I got it it was from them dodo's habit UK....was well made strong pretty much like any other you see....took it out on Sunday gone set up and set the magnet away,got halfway back to the hide and was crashing sound a turned round and it had fell to bits....what I mean is it the extended arms and airpros were on the deckit had stripped threads that attach the rotary to the motor!!! Disgracefull bizznizz....and them a1 airpros well what can I say ....... Useless!!!!

Had you checked that the magnet was turning the correct way. I've had some where I've had to reverse polarity (I.e. Black pole onto red wire, red pole onto black wire) on the battery, and change the arms around, as they undid as soon as you switched them on, due to having a single threaded nut and no locking bolt.

Once polarity was reversed they worked perfect

Edited September 4, 2015 by Redditch

[la bala]

Loads of motors on the bay, but from Hong Kong.

[Redditch]

Loads of motors on the bay, but from Hong Kong.

Yep. MOST important, get a motor/gearbox unit with BRASS bearings (you would be able to see them in the photo of the vendor)

This GENERALLY means that the gears of the gearbox are also BRASS. If you don't get that, then almost certainly the gears are also made of cast "gun metal" or plastic, and thus will be the same as the original gearbox, and also fail.

The brass gearbox ones might cost a few £'s more (50% at these prices is negligible) but well worth it for reliability.

[Redditch]

Here is an ideal one


Or this one



Or this one

Edited December 23, 2015 by Cranfield
Don't post eBay links

[dawntredder]

Had you checked that the magnet was turning the correct way. I've had some where I've had to reverse polarity (I.e. Black pole onto red wire, red pole onto black wire) on the battery, and change the arms around, as they undid as soon as you switched them on, due to having a single threaded nut and no locking bolt.

Once polarity was reversed they worked perfect

I have never owned one before as I never needed one but thought I would have a cheeky bid and won it....so I don't know what you mean by red pole on to black wire and black to red but the rotor which holds the arms you tightened clockwise and when you set it away it rotated clockwise as well? The wires for connecting it were blue&brown...brown is live I believe? Thanks DT.

[Redditch]

I have never owned one before as I never needed one but thought I would have a cheeky bid and won it....so I don't know what you mean by red pole on to black wire and black to red but the rotor which holds the arms you tightened clockwise and when you set it away it rotated clockwise as well? The wires for connecting it were blue&brown...brown is live I believe? Thanks DT.

Yep, blue or black is negative, red or orange is positive. Sometimes you have to connect the red wire to the negative of the battery, and the blue or black wire to the positive of the battery. If it screws down clockwise, then to KEEP tightened it has to rotate anti clockwise, or it will auto undo LOL.

Changing polarity is NOT a problem on most DC 12v motors, and will just result in them turning the other way

Try that and all should be good.

It's a common thing, and most people have had it happen

[dawntredder]

Yep, blue or black is negative, red or orange is positive. Sometimes you have to connect the red wire to the negative of the battery, and the blue or black wire to the positive of the battery. If it screws down clockwise, then to KEEP tightened it has to rotate anti clockwise, or it will auto undo LOL.

Changing polarity is NOT a problem on most DC 12v motors, and will just result in them turning the other way

Try that and all should be good.

It's a common thing, and most people have had it happen

yeh it is black n red then they have a lengh of blue n brown for negative n live....problem is its threaded and won't screw on so its just junk now coz they won't reply to me the r-soles at habit uk so is it able to be welded on or is metal to soft do you think Redditch?....sorry for all ??'s but if nee good I could just give it to some one for parts as its brand new?? Regards DT.