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Zero'ing


Zero'ing  

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  1. 1. Do you zero for one distance or two??

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Just wondering if how many people zero for one distance or two?

 

As per the link below - click on "average range" and then "long range" to compare the two different methods.

 

http://www.federalpremium.com/ballistics/A...mp;bulletwgt=55

 

It would also be nice to know (by normal reply) which method you use, what quarry you are shooting, and at what distances.

 

Cheers, :blush:

Oly

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I'm not quite sure what you mean from the queastion any rifle will have two points (zero) where the path of the bullet crosses the point of aim unless you mean zeroing at the highest point of the curve of the bullet path which would mean holding over for any other point than your zero.

 

My rifle is zeroed at 100yards which is the second zero but the first zero is at 43yards but if i zeroed it at 43yards it would still be zeroed at 100yards i do it at 100 because it makes it that bit more accurate. I think most people will zero a rifle at 100 yards and go an inch high regardless of calibre.

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It's whether or not you purposely zero at the top of the parabola or part way down, so that then you have two custon zeros. By using the latter technique you can customise your zero ranges to two distances at which you commonly encounter targets. :blush:

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I zero once for the distance I expect to shoot at.

2 of my 3 rifles have 'normal' no7 reticles so I just hold over/under for any other distances.

My 6.5 is zero'd at 1" high at 100 yards, that limits the amout of thinking I have to do when presented with a shot that may be longer than that (not that I do any calculation at that point anyway)

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Doublezero.jpg

 

OK you mean this sorry was just confused. I use two zero's as from the muzzle to asround 135 the bullet is within 1 /1/2 inches of the point of aim so for a 3 inch target i can pretty much point and shoot. If i was to use one zero it would be at around 75yards and i wouldnt be getting the full potential out of the round.

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Oly

 

I think most people including myself tend to zero at 100yrds and use the hold over method (as others have suggested). but it all depends where and what you intend to shoot at - if you consistantly shoot stuff at 200yrds then you should zero your rifle for that distance.

 

Cheers paul :blush:

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I cant believe more people don't use the point blank range for zeroing their rifles. Its the bees knees. I see psittacosis does it though. Us Irish boys are crafty like that :blink:

 

I generally set up my .223 for a 3 inch kill zone for boiler room on a fox. So I pick a point on the ballistic trajectory that varies +1.5 inch to -1.5 inch around the sight line. Then I know that anywhere up until the -1.5 inch point I can just point and pull.

 

Also I check the deflection due to wind and make sure I know the minimum wind that will cause the round to be off by 3 inches.

 

Takes a little research but once its done its much simpler and usually you only have to tell if the target is within a range rather than guessing the exact range and holding over or under.

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I would agree with you Veg...if all you are doing is hunting. However, if you are hunting and using the same rifle for target shooting the single zero point is required (unless you re-set your scope every time!).

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