How much leed before pulling the trigger???

[Shabbyshot]

It is difficult but I would agree with Chop. BBBB Bum, Belly, Beak, Bang! As you swing through and you see the bird you see the bum then the belly then the beak and then BANG! Very important keep the gun moving don't stop as you see the beak. This will give you a 'string' of shot. Most people stop at the beak you MUST keep the gun moving.

I think this is a little easier to grasp then a 'inch' lead!!

 

Hope this works for you.

 

SS

[utectok]

top tip clayman! :o

[ROB REYNOLDS UK]

pigeon shooting is not clay shooting ..clays dont speed up or turn like a pigeon or even drop like a pigeon ...pigeon coming in to land ie..wings tucked up aim on the nose or about 1ft in front should do it if its about 20yrds out ..pigeons going away blank them out and shoot as most people will shoot the pigeons feet if they put the beed on the bird .pigeons about 30 to 35 yrd left to right about 1 1/2 feet ..if you at any time shoot at a bird and it speeds up the shot was behind the bird ,if it kind of stops ,slows down or its neck goes in the shot was in front of the bird so give less lead ....use both barrels if at any time the bird is still flying you may have well hit it with the first shot but you need it dead ..use number 5 shot shells 32grm for pigeon and crows and fur ..

[mag357]

Too many variables to calculate, people swing through at different speeds so one mans 2 ft is another mans 1 ft. Its all down to experience and practice.Been shooting for best part of 50 years and still miss some absolute sitters..... Clays can give you good perception of lead and if having problems, take a couple of lessons it could pay big dividens when out in the field.

[Paul223]

Theres a brilliant way of estimating lead with your arm and fingers to give you a visual.

 

With your fore-end arm at full stretch, raise your hand and drop the middle two fingers leaving the little finger and index finger raised. This is a good estimation of the sight picture - target on one finger, gun aim on the other - that you will need. Close your fingers in a bit if its a close target 20yds, and maybe spread them a bit if its out over 40 yds to allow for diminishing velocity of the shotload

 

If the targets running on an angle, turn your hand to the angle of flight, this closes the observed lead gap on the fingers and the triangulation remains correct with the actual lead being greater than the observed lead.

 

This works remarkably well for high tower targets, and I'm sure will apply itself well to pigeons and game birds too.

I'd add to that index finger and second finger out to 20 ish yards, index and third out to 30 yards ish, and as said index and little out to 40 yards ish, depending on how big your hands are ( or not ), and most important more so than concentrating on lead is keep your eye on the bird NOT your barrel, or you will miss behind

[Oceanwave408]

pigeon shooting is not clay shooting ..clays dont speed up or turn like a pigeon or even drop like a pigeon ...pigeon coming in to land ie..wings tucked up aim on the nose or about 1ft in front should do it if its about 20yrds out ..pigeons going away blank them out and shoot as most people will shoot the pigeons feet if they put the beed on the bird .pigeons about 30 to 35 yrd left to right about 1 1/2 feet ..if you at any time shoot at a bird and it speeds up the shot was behind the bird ,if it kind of stops ,slows down or its neck goes in the shot was in front of the bird so give less lead ....use both barrels if at any time the bird is still flying you may have well hit it with the first shot but you need it dead ..use number 5 shot shells 32grm for pigeon and crows and fur ..

 

Thanks for that. I have been shooting for the last 9 years but it has been mainly rifle shooting, air rilfle and .22. I have shot plenty of rabbits with my shotgun but this is the first real chance i have had at pigeons. I just seem to be a bit slow with the fying birds. All adivce would be great.

 

Thank you