Drayman

I think it's Andy - to be specific, the discussion was only about shooting over my permissions and not a general statement. But that said, Surrey seem to have been generally very good and helpful and recently turned around my renewals in quick time. They've also granted a new SGC to a mate of mine and that went through very quickly, even with the Christmas / New year break.

It was my FEO (Surrey) who said I didn't need to carry my certs while out shooting. If the police wanted to know about me they would just call in my ID and check. I only carry them when I know they will definitely be needed - certain clay grounds, buying ammo etc. Other than that I don't want the hassle if I lose one. Also, if someone calls in to say there's a man with a gun the likelihood around here is you'll get an armed response unit turning up. They usually pop in to the local beauty spot cafe for a morning cuppa, complete with side arms! Each to their own.

If you are right eye dominant, stand some distance away from a mirror, look at the end of your nose in the reflection and then quickly point at your nose with your left hand index finger. If you are left eye dominant do the same with your right hand. It's curious that if you first stare at your nose it doesn't matter which hand you point with it will point at your nose (in the reflection)! It's the same if you throw a ball - are all the left eye dominant folk who throw a ball with their right hand missing the target? So stare at the clay / bird with both eyes open and as long as the gun mount is correct you should be about fine on most everything except crossers, which need a bit more work. My son is left eye dominant but shoots right handed and is a good game shot including left and right woodcock. The ****** also shoots well off his left shoulder too but that's another matter. With both eyes open he just knows he has to look hard only at the target and forget looking at the gun. He used to shoot by closing one eye just before pulling the trigger but now shoots both eyes open, so we've been through the same problem that some others have. It's horses for courses but the gun should point where you are looking irrespective of eye dominance. It won't work for everyone but I've now seen it work for others once they get the logic in their heads. I'm also fairly sure that the Easyhit-type products just bring your attention back to the end of the gun which is not where you want it to be on the majority of targets. Just a thought.

I keep my SGC and FAC numbers in my phone so they are with me at all times. The bill can call them in if needed.

This is one of those rare cases where size isn't everything! My main permission is on a 200 acre farm cleared for .22 and 17HMR. Good shoot with lots of safe shots. I was invited to shoot a 300 acre farm but declined as I didn't consider there to be any shots worth losing my ticket for. It's cleared for rimfires but I wasn't happy so I declined. I was asked to shoot a 60 acre equestrian property and told by the owner, "the police had cleared it for rifles". No chance. A quick call to the police showed it had only been cleared for FAC air. So I arranged the permission for some airgunners from the airgun forum. So it's not the size - it's what you do with it that counts

CZ .22 bolt action just works ... and works ... and works. Just keep the bolt clean. Barrel - most folks just leave them alone and rarely clean them. If you get a 2nd hand one make sure the barrel is floated (doesn't touch the forestock) - easy to do yourself - and it is properly screw cut. Sort the trigger for creep if it hasn't been done (Brooks kit) - easy to do yourself If its a long barrel have it shortened to about 16". Much easier to use in the field with moderator. Work out which ammo suits it best - they aren't all the same. And then figure out what you are going to do with all the rabbits. It looks a basic tool and it is - but it's very reliable, does a very good job, and if it takes the odd knock it doesn't hurt too much.

Could you point out the savings account you're using. Unless it's a cash ISA you'll be taxed on any interest and other market accounts won't guarantee your funds (the value of your investments may go up or down and they always seem to go down ). Plus your pot is getting steadily eroded by inflation. It's good to have (probably essential) a rainy day pot of money but I don't think it works if you are trying to beat interest rates.

Sent in all of my renewal paperwork for my SGC and FAC about 10 days before Christmas. They also asked for a renewal of my permission letter (FAC) from the landowner and details of the permission so I also included a Google satellite picture to remind them of the area. Just had the visit. Renewal certs. expected in about 1 week. Considering everyone has been on holiday I think that's a really good service by Surrey.

Thanks guys, "Trev" it is then

I'm meeting a colleague in the US who's a proud Welshman called Trefor. I've always pronounced his name over the phone using the "f" sound in the name and he hasn't cpmplained. Is that correct or should I use, dare I say, a "v" sound in the name? Thanks.

Mongrel, "...it's a springer, and allowing for the recoil is part of shooting it and to do so consistently is surely the point?" Absolutely agree. In fact that's part of what separates one shooter from another. But if someone without your skill shoots your rifle and misses the target is it because the rifle isn't zeroed or because of their skill at using your gun? Zeroing is purely mechanical. Shooting is a personal skill. Colster. If I could clamp down a springer so it wouldn't move a thou' I would certainly give it a go. But at 13 stone and squidgy I absorb more recoil than a Workmate but in a different way. The Workmate doesn't stop it all together as after you fire the gun it isn't perfectly on target. By the way, I still hold the gun and sight as normal - this isn't like the bench fire competitions. The tool just reduces the variables that I would add in to the test. So the aim is to take out my own ability, or lack of, when I zero a gun. I'm not on a quest to convert anyone. I used to zero my guns by firing from the best rest I had available. But being a technical sort I thought "logic says if I ...." and for now, that's the way I do it and it works for me.

Ok, I said life's too short but there's a whole new year to get through..... If a rifle is properly zeroed to the scope it doesn't matter what position you shoot from it is still zeroed. The only thing that changes is the shooters ability to control the rifle. All rifles, including the 50 cal Barrat are clamped down and bench tested to keep things as stable as possible. Folks shoot with bipods, been bags, bench rests and so on to improve accuracy. Things only start to change when you add people, weather and different ammunition in to the equation. So the aim is to get the shooter out of the equation as much as possible. So it's right to say shoot the rifle as you plan to use it but I still reckon its best to know that the rifle is first zeroed as best as possible to the scope. Then you can work on your own skill to keep it on target from any shooting position or style. And it's not a question of who's right or wrong. It's each to their own. But I just don't see any difference between zeroing a sub 12 springer and everything up to a 50 cal.

I thought it was spectacular and would like to have been there. As for the money: "The £313,000 display was cut by two minutes this year, helping organisers save a total of £70,000. But deputy mayor of London Richard Barnes, who was in charge of the fireworks, said the event was still a "good bang for your buck". He said the major cost of the event was ensuring the safety of the crowd and organising travel arrangements so they can get home." Which just goes to show you can't trust any figures. If the major cost is safety and transport that doesn't change if you cut the show by 2 minutes. Mind you, there are plenty of other areas consuming my taxes which give me absolutely no pleasure at all and I would rather cut them first!

OK, you win. I give up. Life's too short .......

Never really did like being called a fool so we've just put a HW95K through the same process. Took the scope way off zero. Stuck it in the Workmate (snug, not tight) and fired. Took it out of the Workmate (just to keep you happy). Put it back in and aimed at the bull. Then adjusted the scope to the previous point of impact. Fired again - guess what. Took it out of the Workmate and loaded. Popped it back in an aimed at the bull - guess what. Took longer to get the Workmate out of the garage .... ALL rifle scope combinations of any type are best zeroed with a bench rest of some kind. Mongrel's approach will work too but it depends if the chap can shoot consistently. The Workmate just happens to be a convenient tool. If you don't want to clamp it up then use it as a base for a rest with a bag of sand or bag of chicken food - whatever takes your fancy. The important thing is to remove variables where possible. Each to their own!

Why don't you put an ICE number in your phone .... In Case of Empty ... dial the number and a mate pops round with a couple of bottles

The Workmate works for my (and others) 22LR and a 17HMRs! In fact the biggest problem is then adding back in the person who pulls the trigger. You can get a nicely zeroed rifle to miss by miles

Hmmm... Depends which phone you have as some can be set to show emergency numbers even if locked. ICE numbers (I'm told) can be accessed via a service on newer IPhones. Seems that if you "lose" your phone it doesn't take much for the "finder" to unlock it and get any stored info. My phone stays with me for security. If it's lost then I assume all information on the phone is now in the wrong hands, so I don't bother to use pin codes on the phone unless it gets turned off, which is very rare. In fact, I'm now not even sure why that needs a pin code :unsure: . Personal choice but don't see the point. The chance of an ICE number being needed is very remote but I would prefer to have it, and let others have access to it - even if it's just so the wife knows it's time to collect

Just seeing the title of the post: Does everyone have an ICE (in case of emergency) number in their mobile. I, and my family and all my biking mates have them. Hope they are never used but may be important one day.

OOPS! I missed the "not yet 18 bit" This is from the BASC site: 15 TO 17 YEARS OF AGE Between 15 and 17, with a certificate, you may be given or lent a shotgun (and cartridges) for up to 72 hours by another certificate holder and use them on private premises without supervision. Making a gift of a shotgun requires an adult (18 or older) to follow the instructions on his shotgun certificate. In practice this means conducting a full transfer of the shotgun by making an entry in table two of the young recipient’s certificate stating the word “gift” in the relevant box. Both the person giving and receiving the shotgun must then inform their own police licensing departments of the transaction within 7 days by recorded delivery or by email to the email address designated by the issuing authority. Once you have been gifted a shotgun you may also lend your shotgun to other certificate holders for up to 72 hours without the need for a written transfer to be made. If you have to lend your shotgun for longer than 72 hours you must make an entry into table two of the borrower’s certificate. Both the person transferring and receiving the shotgun must then inform their own police licensing departments of the transaction within 7 days by recorded delivery or by email to the email address designated by the issuing authority. When the shotgun is returned to you; the same process applies but in reverse.

This is what works for me with both air rifles and my rimmies. Adjust the eyepiece so that the graticule is in focus for your eye. Get a Workmate and a towel or enough soft cloth. Fix the gun in the Workmate cushioned by the towel, firm enough to stop it moving but not too tight. Don't grip the barrel or squeeze the stock on to the barrel. Also, make sure you can reload without moving the gun. Set up your SAFE target at about the distance you normally want to shoot e.g. 25 yds. The target should be bigger than you think necessary! Set the zoom on maximum. Aim at the bull and fire off several pellets. Try very hard not to move the gun or Workmate. If they don't group it is because of a) a new gun and will settle B) something is moving c) wrong pellets for gun (they have preferences). If the gun moves during loading then just move it back to the bull (don't adjust the scope). Then without moving the gun adjust the scope so that it centres on where the pellets landed. Job done. Then set the target at different ranges to show you how much you need to hold over or under. Use the gun at different zoom settings to see what's easiest for you. PS. you'll need to experiment with pellets. H&NFTT's are superb in my AA410 whereas many others won't group at all. Good luck.

Isn't that just making it more complicated. If you go to the shop together why doesn't he just give you the money (a gift) in the shop and the gun will go straight on to your ticket.

Thanks for the fast reply but was looking for something cheaper (2nd hand) as new from shop is only a little more. But thanks again.

Looking for some 2nd hand Browning (Miroku) Invictor Plus FLUSH chokes. 12 gauge. 3/4 or full, both for lead.

Great result for cycling and looking at the percentages more than just cyclists voted for him. With the track team and the road teams (fellas and girls), British cycling is at the highest point it has ever been and more kids are getting in to the sport. And if anyone wonders whether it's tough even near the top..... Pro road cyclist - minimum 27,000 miles per year, up to 35,000 Cavendish racing calendar - about 125 days / year Yes he can come over as a bit arrogant but he is a sprinter and they sprint in a tough and dangerous sport. But he always mentions the team's efforts first. And when asked on Radio 4 after the Tour how he motivates himself to get back on the bike each day, he replied "it's me job". Great sport and great winner.