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1066

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Posts posted by 1066

  1. 5 minutes ago, hawkeye said:

    Love the annealing machine could do with one like that myself if you are interested in making another PM me the price ...

    I made a handful like that then simplified the design and made another handful of the MK 2. Whether I will make another batch, I really don't know, just too many projects and not enough hours. :)

      https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=ssAYLvHIw0E

    or even simpler:

     

  2. I have a Tevo Tarantula - It's a cheap kit at around £200. I'm pleased with the results and it's been running reliably for around 6 months now. Building it wasn't too bad but poor Chinese/English instructions don't help. If you spent time as a kid playing with Meccano and enjoy tinkering around with mechanical stuff, you should be ok. If that's not your thing, then there are machines available that are more "ready to run", they just cost twice as much.

  3. OOh! Those are looking good Spandit - I really love this 3d printing lark. Here's some of my efforts with a cheap Chinese kit printer:

    Magnetic rack for O/U shotgun - sticks firmly to the side of your vehicle or inside/outside your gun cabinet.

    86nxRjpm.jpg

    Spent primer catcher for RCBS Supreme press.

    49NTFBum.jpg

    Box inserts for black powder phials

    18enuI7m.jpg

    45-70 Reloading tray.

    dNlWQxEm.jpg

    Replacement trigger for FWB 124 airgun

    zm9bmpfm.png

     

     

  4.  

    Pleased you have your problem sorted and the lower mounts certainly look better and should give you a more natural shooting position.

    I really don't think that was the problem though. Having the scope  half an inch higher but still correctly fitted does effect the "point and shoot zone", the distance where you will be either half an inch above or below your target but not the ability of being able to zero the scope.

    My guess is that they were the wrong mounts or incorrectly fitted in the first place. in the first place, 

  5. Agree, not really a problem. I think the older Brno 2E with open sights was a classic rabbit harvester, a job to beat from any angle. For the last 10-20 years the use of scopes on rimfires, has become the norm, to such an extent there are many new shooter who know nothing else. It just seems to me that CZ are making the same "open sight" rifle, but thinking "we'll put a little dovetail on just for those few odd balls who want to use one of those new fangled scopes."

    Not knocking CZ at all, I have an accurate 527. It just struck me, when they phased out the 452 and introduced the (cheaper to manufacture) 455 they missed a chance.

  6. Just an observation, but when optically centering your scope ( nothing to do with zeroing here) it important to be looking through the scope to see when the reticle stops moving.. screwing in the turret you will arrive at a dead stop, unscrewing the turret, the reticle will stop moving but often the turret continues to click, doing nothing whatsoever.

    And another observation. CZ have been making good value, accurate rifles for a long time, I find it a bit disappointing that they have not addressed the scope rail problem. They have an odd size dovetail, it's too short and the bolt handle fouls the scope eye bell. (Hence the high mounts in the photo). An extended Picatinny or Weaver rail and a cranked bolt handle as standard would be a step forward.

  7. Shimming scopes works and is commonly done, especially with lower level air rifle/rimfire kit - that doesn't mean to say it's right. It's not something that would be considered as acceptable practice by a serious long range centrefire shooter with middle to decent kit. If you need more elevation than the internal adjustment of your scope, even when correctly set up, then you need an inclined rail.

    I had a Howa 1500 a while ago where the receiver was drilled off centre, the only practical solution to optically centre the scope was to use Burris rings with offset inserts, solved the problem and also adjusted to give another 10moa of elevation for longer ranges, this is what they are designed for.

    You can use a hammer on a quality wood handled chisel or an adjustable spanner on an Aston Martin, both work - after a fashion.

  8. The only shims that won't mechanically stress your scope are the Burris rings with plastic inserts - these work on a "Rose bearing" principle that will allow you to add height to the rear of your scope to gain more elevation - or indeed to straighten up a scope side to side where the rail has been fitted off centre.

    Shimming scopes seems to be common practice on airguns and with cheap scopes on .22lr's but with a decent scope on a centrefire is a bodge to say the least.

    As Dekers says - there's something fundamentally wrong that want's fixing first. 

  9. 12 hours ago, Harry136 said:

    When i bought the gun, i put it on medium mounts and it seemed spot on, however the mounts sat too high for a cheek weld.There are specific shims for the rings so there won't be any damage. Would shimming just the rear mount work to bring the front down?

    This rifle hasn't already got Burris rings with plastic inserts

    has it? Or a 20 moa rail?

  10. 4 hours ago, Dekers said:

    Ok, I'm not trying to start this off again.

    She was good, especially free standing, and apparently 300 yards, bear in mind she was also sighted, experienced and had several goes, but the grouping was good!

    Again, nobody has said the .22lr isn't capable of these distances, the .308 is capable of 1000, but how often would you use it at those distances in the field?

    She certainly did very well - anyone  who's into competitive 10m air rifle shooting knows it's no where near as easy as it looks.

    I was a bit concerned that she thought the .22 might not have enough "Oomph" to break the egg at that distance though. Also, we have no idea how many misses she had before a hit, yes we saw several but 20 others may well have been edited out.

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