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4535jacks

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  1. Thanks, sadly I am away overseas for a few week s so trying to see if I can come up with a plan to action as soon as I get back.
  2. I am limited in where I can place my cabinets as they will be concealed in existing furniture and having 3 cabinets, I want them flush against each other to prevent a crow bar being used between them.
  3. Thanks, I am not so much concerned about my FEO but more that my neighbours were burgled a few weeks ago. I would prefer to attached my three cabinets to block work just as I did in my previous houses but all were a lot older with thick brick walls. Some research has suggested the following options: Threaded bar and resin Thunderbolts (my preference I think as non expanding and easy remove when I move). Long anchors (150-200mm) I am just concerned about drilling through my wall to find block work or creating a thermal bridge.
  4. I have moved house to that was built in 1999. I have drilled through the external wall where I want to fix my cabinets and it is plasterboard. I didn't drill any further so I don't know how the wall is constructed. I don't want to drill into the floor as it take up too much of the room. The loft is converted. With more modern walls, do people tend to drill through the block work behind and fix using extra long anchors or are there special types of anchors people use? Not knowing much about wall construction, with a house of this age is it likely to have an outer leaf of brick followed by an inner leaf of block work that I could drill into or just a single outer leaf and then insulation , battening and plasterboard? Gary
  5. I have a side by side with some very light pitting/corrosion in a barrel and I would like to have it honed or polish to tidy it up. When I lived in Wiltshire I had Phil Turner of Bozards do a barrel and the results were amazing. I have now moved to the Suffolk Essex Border near Haverhill and I looking for a nearby gunsmith to do the same. Any recommendations?
  6. To relive some of my early shooting days, I am after an AYA Yeoman 28". I am after a nice example with spotless bores, no pitting, dents, scratches etc. I would prefer something with the majority of its case hardening left and choked full and half. I live near Cambridge.Gary
  7. I have shot it at a pattern plate and it was hitting the right spot. I have missed a few reasonably easy birds with it but that could be down to a lack of currency as i don't shoot shotguns that often anynore. I am thinking of keeping this gun long term (unless a perfect AYA XXV sidelock came up which is my dream walked up gun) and so i want to invest some money to ensure it is right for me.
  8. I have a side by side i bought a while ago and I am thinking of having it properly fitted and then refinished. My local gunsmith does gun fitting but doesn't use a try gun. Would people recommend using a larger school such as Ian Coley or AG&L that uses a a try gun? TIA Gary
  9. Can anyone recommend a could gunsmith to donsome stock work within 45mins of Cambridge?
  10. My local gunsmith is happy he can still get spares and if need be I am happy to machine my own. I too would love an AYA over an Arrieta but the AYA XXV sidelock is significantly more than I have agreed to pay for the Arrieta.
  11. I would recommend minox bv 8x42. I use these for stalking amd never had any issues.
  12. I am looking at a Gunmark sabel 25. Sadly can't quite afford a Churchill XXV.
  13. Thanks for thr info. Out of interedt what sort of minimum thickness is a barrel that has not been lapped or is pretty new?
  14. This is a spanish gun. How should it be measured? Is there a rule of thumb of barrel wear in thou per 1000 or 10,000 cartridges?
  15. I am looking to buy a side by side that i plan to keep long term and so i am looking for longevity. One gun i looked at, the salesman meaured the barrels and said the minimum reading was 32thou. This figure means nothing to me. Is this a normal minimum barrel thickness for a used gun with plenty of service left?
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