Windswept
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Posts posted by Windswept
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Does anyone have experience with shooting copper plated lead bullets? I.e not copper jacketed but a thin electroplated layer of copper on a lead bullet.
The load data I've seen shows they can be treated as a gas checked hard cast lead bullet, i.e. speeds kept down to prevent leading.
I'm curious to know do they prevent leading and how accurate they are.
An example of them can be found here: https://www.hn-sport.de/en/reloading/round-nose-308-165-gr-hs
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1 hour ago, wymberley said:
From experience, down here the reason to avoid is - I'd like x hundred because x-100 is the bulk box amount and the normal box contains the 100. This means I can stock up before running out and it's a little cheaper.
I don't think that's the reason in this case, it wasn't in mine.
I've found the amounts seem to randomly vary, IIRC my previous renewal put some amounts up by more than I asked and my recent renewal put them back down again.
If you need the amounts raised I'd just contact your licencing dept and ask.
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This seems to be common, Devon and Cornwall did this at my last renewal and other people I know.
I wasn't caught out thankfully.
I think at my next renewal I'll add a comment on the form about how many I have so they don't lower the amounts.
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The main RFD I use are actually quite good, they would only scrap a gun themselves and with the owners permission. Still sad to see a pile of shotguns waiting to be scrapped.
Anyway, thank you for all the replies and messages. I've passed the messages on and it looks like UK Gun Repairs would be the simplest option so I've suggest that.
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm in Devon.
If it was a fairly cheap gun then a DIY job would be worth a go but as the gun in good working order is worth a fair bit, and it would be great if someone could use it rather than keep it as a wall hanger, then it's something a suitable gunsmith should look at IMO.
I'm aware that the dent may not be easy to remove, and of course the gun could fail proof, but even then it would be nice if someone could make use of the parts. I think some of the local RFDs may just scrap it, which would be a shame.
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Thanks for the replies. The owner wants to pass the gun on, would any of the suggestions consider buy such a gun with the view to repair and sell on? The West Midlands would be too far to take it there but I would assume it could be RFDed.
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A friend has an old Boss 12 bore hammer gun. Sadly there's rather a big dent in one of the barrels so it cannot be sold on.
The dent is about the size of a small pea and clearly visible when you look down the barrels. The gun is also not nitro proofed.
Can anyone advise if such a dent could be repaired and what sort of cost it would be? To my untrained eye the barrels otherwise look very good and seem to be fairly thick (they've not been measured).
Also, can anyone recommend someone who may want to take on such a project as it would be a shame to scrap such a gun. Ideally in the south west but anywhere else would be considered.
This is not a sales thread, I'm hopefully after a few contacts I can pass on. Thanks.
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It looks like an azalea to me.
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1 hour ago, ditchman said:
most of the damage is done...as a result of sky lanterns been made with thin steel wires which get into cattle via hay and silage......i believe there are very few proven examples of the lanterns starting fires.....as the lanterns would only fall to earth when the lift fire has stopped burning
these lanterns have been about for 100's of years and used to be constructed out of biodegraderble products ...no steel involved...........perhaps thats the way forward ?
Plenty of the lanterns catch fire and fall to earth on fire. But I agree, banning the sale of the ones made with wire and plastic would seem reasonable.
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Thanks for the update. I vaguely thought there were steel .410 shells available somewhere other than the UK. I know you can buy wads from Clay and Game in the UK, details of them here: https://www.ballisticproducts.com/TPS-410-bore-non-toxic-wad-preslit/productinfo/3224100/
I was wondering how much of a gain you'd get from extending the chamber. 2 1/2" loads are 14g and 3" are 18g. One for the experienced .410 users.
If you don't shoot it often then I would expect Bismuth cartridges to reappear and, hopefully, some form of cheaper Bismuth alloy to be available.
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7 minutes ago, London Best said:
I believe the Webley bolt action (Sportsman?) 3 shot model with the magazine came with a 3 inch chamber. Can anyone confirm this?
I think it did, see the third old advert down: http://www.fourten.org.uk/nostalgia23.html
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I've just tried a couple of fired 3" cases in my 2.5" Webley and Scott. The fired roll crimp 3" cases are shorter than star crimped cases (2.85" vs 2.97"). The shorter cases extract and eject on their own, the longer case does not eject but can be removed manually. Not sure if all Webley & Scotts will be the same.
I'd be interested to hear how you get on, one can hope steel .410 cartridges will be available at some point and not stupidly expensive...
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If you search for N O B-80 there are quite a few burn rate charts that's show up similar powders.
(Note remove the spaces in N O B, the swear filter will not let me type the three letters!)
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9 hours ago, keeper96 said:
I’ve just bought a big standard 10/22 on a whim, what’s people’s thoughts and things to watch out for?
Things to watch out for - spending too much money on replacement parts!
Depends what model you have, I would start by checking it over. Make sure there's not too much room between the stock and action.
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I wonder when the topping off with grease/lube first started then? I use my own home made beeswax and veg oil mix and quite like the smell. It can get messy and I've started to use a syringe which speeds up loading and keeps the mess down. I've shot 1,000s through mine without issue.
As for those starting out, I can recommend finding a club which has several people shooting them as you can get advice of what to buy, what to avoid and you can get to borrow equipment. Just remember to stand upwind if you're in a line of people shooting a rapid string of 6.
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You wouldn't need that much grease and if you mix fat and wax it can tolerate heat well. It wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't often used though as the risk of flash over would be less than getting shot. However, modern guns do use it. Here's the bit from my manual
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I've never heard grease at the front increases the risk of flash over. The instructions tend to tell you to grease the front of the cylinder and I'm sure that's what was normally done. That's what most people I know do and I've never seen a flash over in 1,000s of shots.
I agree the balls need to shave a ring of lead for a good seal. I also gather that there is a risk of flash over from the percussion caps, especially as some people suggest you should squeeze them first. (You should never squeeze them, if they fall off you are either using the wrong size caps, you've not pushed them on hard enough or the nipples are too clean.)
I also thought 777 cleans the best and is less corrosive than Pyrodex or black?
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Harsh crowd.
Does everyone think the Government would not have tried to ban lead sooner if it was not for the voluntary ban?
31 minutes ago, Scully said:‘Live quarry’? I thought it was ‘game’?🤔🙂
Does 'live quarry' not also include pest species, pigeons etc?
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In my Baikal hushpower .410 the Eley magnums are noticeably louder than the Eley 3" subsonics. Still fairly quiet so unless you're after something as quiet as possible worth considering a box?
As for a stockist, you could call the Saddlery & Gunroom in Westerham, they may have some or you could ask if they know anywhere?
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58 minutes ago, dodgy dave said:
thousands of of the public are still drinking water through lead pipes. you would think they would look at that first, know one ever brings that up do they
Yep, millions of people still have lead mains pipe and I expect there's still a huge amount of lead solder in copper pipe. I was told this was fine unless the pipes are disturbed.
As for shot in game, it's a shame the BBC didn't bother to ask for scientific evidence to show how much of the lead in the game is absorbed once eaten. I gather it's virtually nil so there would be little or no risk in humans consuming game?
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10 hours ago, rbrowning2 said:
Their is a reason we have guns proofed is their not, if not why bother with it.
These threads often don't mention the difference between high performance steel and standard steel. Unless I'm mistaken, a steel proofed gun will be proofed to a higher pressure so can cope with the high performance steel. A nitro proofed gun can cope with standard steel provided you follow the manufactures recommendation, e.g. choke and shot size. After that it's up to the owner to decide what they use.
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I think you're a bit stuffed now,the MSA120 RRP seems to have risen by £50 over the last month, COVID or Brexit related?
It used to be common to see it around £220 INC VAT now it's around £260 and the RRP is £299!!!!
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I've had a 352 for over 5 years and it's cut a large amount without problem. Takes a couple of tanks to loosen up. Mines not an auto-choke but it's the easiest saw I've ever tried to start. The only downsides are parts can be a bit harder to get hold of and I'm not overly keen on the large teeth on the VXL chain as it can be a bit grabby on a small saw.
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1 hour ago, Walker570 said:
I was always told, that in a fight then attempt to get in the first decisive blow. Most but not all Licensing Departments are looking for a way to say NO. Therefore by doing your homework planning and putting together the suggestions I made above go a long way to stopping them in their tracks 99% of the time.
I wouldn't disagree but I still think you need to know what your licensing dept want. Don't some want an mentor, DSC1 etc?
2 hours ago, oowee said:🤣 simply the reason to acquire. The rest goes without saying.
Thinking about this, if deer are a problem wouldn't you really need to apply for something to cover all deer, so .243?
I don't know Essex that well but I would have thought you'd have Roe, Fallow and even Red as well?
Copper plated bullets
in Bullets, Cartridges and Reloading
Posted
Thanks for your reply. My concern with leading stems from the fact the load data used is the same for a bare lead bullet, so I assume there's a point where the copper plate can be stripped. I can't see any max speed details although I'd be keeping the speed down.
How do you get on with such a low powder charge in a 303 case? I'm used to low charges in a 357 case but the people I know seem to struggle with low full bore charges. I would be looking at the 303 bullets.