kyska Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 Well I've finally crossed the line of airgunning into the world of FAC. I've done so much research looking into what to buy with slots for .22 and .17hmr, took the plunge. Looked at all sorts, and i know some people have had issues with this gun, I'm pretty assured that its not a friday afternoon one. It was a bit more than my original budget as I want to get both calibres, but the .22 will wait till the end of the month. Bought the gun and got 100 rounds of two different makes of ammunition in the sale from my RFD, I've dealt with them for years with airguns and I feel assured from them this should do the job. Whether you like them or not I'm very chuffed, zero session on saturday pending weather....any advice on zeroing this would be very much appreciated.....sounds silly but now I've actually bought one I feel slightly scared of it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbly Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 Pretty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz2381 Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 Great looking rifle, don't be scared of it just enjoy it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devonhunter Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 (edited) Nice rifle mate is it a savage ? with my hmr when zeroing i take a few shots and then let it cool down for abit then take another and let it cool and so on untill done , as the way i see it is you start a day or night off with a cold barrel the same as when you have finished zeroing it and you probabley wont be taking shots every 10 seconds when your hunting , if you continue to fire one after another when zeroing the barrel gets warm and when you go out and the barrel is cold it can affect the poi. Others may argue but thats how i do it and havnt encounterd any problems as yet. Edited November 17, 2009 by chard1981 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet boy Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 LOVELY RIFLE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 I have to say that I prefere the more "traditional" looking stock myself but that is a really nice looking rifle that you have there. Good luck with it, I'm sure that you will be delighted with the results when you are shooting it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyska Posted November 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 Thanks guys! Regarding the zeroing, I've read that I should really use a bag for the butt end of the stock and not to zero straight off the bipod? Is that right? Also, zero range, I was thinking 70 yards, how will the trajectory look on that? IE holdunder at say 40 yards, hold over at further distances? Kyska Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegasus bridge Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 Thanks guys! Regarding the zeroing, I've read that I should really use a bag for the butt end of the stock and not to zero straight off the bipod? Is that right? Also, zero range, I was thinking 70 yards, how will the trajectory look on that? IE holdunder at say 40 yards, hold over at further distances? Kyska i have just got a .17 hmr as well, spent ages reading some stuff on zeroing,apparently the hmr will cross the 'zero' point at approx 35 yards, and then again at 125 (with less than an inch in between!, so i just kept it simple and did it just like i would an air rifle - fired a few groups of 3 at 35 yards and had it hitting the spot time after time, the zero has worked out for me, i have taken rabbits at over 130 yards on a couple of occasions! (and i dont claim to be a good shot), the .17hmr is an awesome round, i am impressed each time i go out with it. It really makes it easy to take long range accurate shots. (can you tell i'm impressed with it?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 (edited) Thanks guys! Regarding the zeroing, I've read that I should really use a bag for the butt end of the stock and not to zero straight off the bipod? Is that right? Also, zero range, I was thinking 70 yards, how will the trajectory look on that? IE holdunder at say 40 yards, hold over at further distances? Kyska These bits about zeroing interest me as I have just got a 17HMR also. Please can someone explain why you should use a bag instead of a bipod for zeroing and what difference it might make. I have zeroed mine at 80 yards using a bipod and am very happy with the results but if I can get better than I am using a different method then all the better! Any halp and advice is apreciated! Below is the set up I used to zero with! Edited November 18, 2009 by Frenchieboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyska Posted November 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 From what I've read the ideal zero is 100 yards with 17g VMAX for the ranges I'll be shooting. The graph is quite interesting, can't believe I'm getting all techy before I've even shot the thing! I've heard of some people zeroing at 30 yards and getting a second zero at 100, but many people dispute that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegasus bridge Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 These bits about zeroing interest me as I have just got a 17HMR also. Please can someone explain why you should use a bag instead of a bipod for zeroing and what difference it might make. I have zeroed mine at 80 yards using a bipod and am very happy with the results but if I can get better than I am using a different method then all the better!Any halp and advice is apreciated! Below is the set up I used to zero with! thats pretty much how i did it! used the bipod in the boot of the car, i zeroed at 35 yards because apprently it is the point that it crosses over the 'zero point' (going up by less than an inch) before coming back through the zero point at approx 125 yards. I set this up and it has worked for me, i am sure there are more technical ways to do this, and someone with a better knowledge of this will be able to point this out), BUT, i have done it this way and it has worked fine, i am not a practicsed shot and i have been shooting rabbits in the head with ease from 20 yards, to over 130 since (best part of a week and half ), and i do not claim to be a good shot by any stretch, i think coming from .22 air rifles with a very pronounced trajectory to this round is a complete and utter different ball game, i read lots of stuff about the .17 hmr before i got one, but it really is a good piece of kit, which (dare i say it) takes a lot of skill out of shooting rabbits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegasus bridge Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 From what I've read the ideal zero is 100 yards with 17g VMAX for the ranges I'll be shooting. The graph is quite interesting, can't believe I'm getting all techy before I've even shot the thing! I've heard of some people zeroing at 30 yards and getting a second zero at 100, but many people dispute that. i heard the same thing, but it was a quick exercise and i have found it works for me, if it had not i would have simply tried another method. in terms of worrying about the hold over, the graph says it all really - dont worry! (within 150 yards of course) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devonhunter Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 I zero mine of a bipod at 100 yards i think alot of people zero a hmr at that but its personal prefference really just got to think what sort of ranges you will be shooting at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRDS Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 (edited) Firstly turn your bipod round as its back to front. Zero from your bipod with a sand bag under the butt so you are rock steady. Set an initial zero at short range to get you on paper so to speak then move back to 100 yards and zero again. One tip to save you ammo, open up a feedbag and felt a dot in the middle, its alot bigger than an A4 and you should be able to see the first shot straight away. I fix it up between garden canes with pegs. As always you must have a solid backstop. Edited November 22, 2009 by JRDS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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