Paddy Galore! Posted May 30, 2010 Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 Hello chaps! need to pick your brains again.. I've been playing in the shed again and have got my "wood mojo" back, now i want to make another stock for my 22lr, i've got plenty of tools for the job, my only problem is bedding the action. How accurate does my cutting out have to be, and does it matter on a 22 rimmie? Would it matter more on a centre fire? Obviously it's got to fit and fix firmly, just wondering if anyone else has done this before and could give me a few pointers. The barrel is already floating, and there doesn't appear to be any bedding blocks in the original stock, but the wood i'm using is american walnut and it's a bit tasty, so it would be a shame to mess it up. thanks in advance, gram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beretta28g Posted May 30, 2010 Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 This is possible especially if you use a certain wood filler, it could be worth looking into Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 Rifle bedding is a topic entirely on its own, what you are trying to achive, the primary inlet needs to be reasonably accurate from an aesthetic point of view but all points of contact between action and stock should be finalised by the actual bedding process. I have done a lot of stock work and bedding in particular and to be honest, its just something I have learned by doing it. Every one has been 100% functional but the more I do, the neater they get. I am utterly convinced that a properly bedded rifle can improve accuracy and more importantly consistency by eliminating intermittent problems with rifle/stock fit. It is such an in depth subject I could no possibly describe it in words, I dont have the time but one thing is for sure, everyone who can bed a rifle will have their own particular "method" and specific preferences in their technique but at the end of the day, it is not rocket science and to be honest a lot simpler than inletting itself. Where do you live, you can come round and watch my 243 get done if you are local, it is the last rifle I will be doing for quite some time as it is the only one left I own that I have not yet done. Hi fister, thanks for the offer but i'm a bit far from you, in essence, is it ok to bed directly to the wood? the inletting isn't a problem for me as i can make it mm perfect, sub mm would be difficult tho and i was considering using either brass or aluminium blocks under the fixing points and milling the faces in situ. this causes problems in mounting to the machine bed but is not impossible, i just don't have the experience to know whether it's needed or am i being too fussy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2010 This is possible especially if you use a certain wood filler, it could be worth looking into that's another option, thanks fella. not sure if i could get a good colour match though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeker Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Try this link: http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthread...;Number=1167022 Choose a compound with a slow set - like Devcon -some of the quick set mixes can shrink up to 10% apparently and defeat the aim of a tight fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted May 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Very interesting stuff, i'd read about one guy making a new stock for his winchester 70, in his write up he talked about pillar bedding and making some brass inserts, this is probably where i confused myself with fixing inserts in the recesses over the fixing points. going by the previous links this wont be strictly neccesary but i might just do it anyway. thanks for the replies chaps once again PW has saved the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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