best way to remove old varnish?

[mushty111]

hi again guys,

last post for tonight, what is the best way to remove old varnish off a stock, and also the fore grip.

as its getting tired and i'd like to put a matt oil finish on it to take away the glare.

[hawkeye]

Nitromose and elbow grease :( :( :( :o

[mushty111]

thanks hawkeye

have to get hold of some nitromose and elbow grease, i expect thats by special order only ...... lol:

i dont spose you'd be offering?... :o

[Simon Roberts]

Im going to be doing this to my Lanber very shortly. I really dont like varnished stocks at all. I have some nice Walnut on the Sporting Deluxe and will look excellent oiled. Good luck mate

[Lord Geordie]

Best person to ask would be David Dickinson. He MUST slap varnish on that face of his every morning and remove i before going to bed

 

Nitromorse or any other paint removing product. If using Sand paper keep it a high grade and go with the grain not across it.

 

 

LG

[magman]

stanley knife blade

and not jokeing

[hawkeye]

thanks hawkeye

have to get hold of some nitromose and elbow grease, i expect thats by special order only  ...... lol:

i dont spose you'd be offering?...

You can get it in B&Q think its in a brown tin (ELBOW GREASE that is)

Edited April 5, 2006 by hawkeye

[mry716]

Magman is right - use Stanley blades held at an angle between fingers and thumb and scrap the wood clean. When you get the hang of it you can do a stock and f/end without digging in all in about 15mins ready to sand.

 

DO NOT use sandpaper.

 

Sandpaper ie glass paper looses its grit and you will damage your finish so use 'Wet and Dry' paper that the car body shop uses. It is about the same price.

 

Start with 180 or 220grit and then on to 360 and for a really nice finsh 600 grit.

Whisker twice after each grit size and 3 or 4 times before using a spirit based stain such as Colron (Rustins now)

 

If you have access to a spray kit try Cellulose lacquer (Blending Clear) for a super finish - email me for 'how to do it'. I can do a rifle stock in 1/2 a day from starting to scrap to polishing finish now and it lasts years.

[the last engineer]

Magman is right - use Stanley blades held at an angle between fingers and thumb and scrap the wood clean. When you get the hang of it you can do a stock and f/end without digging in all in about 15mins ready to sand.

 

DO NOT use sandpaper.

 

Sandpaper ie glass paper looses its grit and you will damage your finish so use 'Wet and Dry' paper that the car body shop uses. It is about the same price.

 

Start with 180 or 220grit and then on to 360 and for a really nice finsh 600 grit.

Whisker twice after each grit size and 3 or 4 times before using a spirit based stain such as Colron (Rustins now)

 

If you have access to a spray kit try Cellulose lacquer (Blending Clear) for a super finish - email me for 'how to do it'. I can do a rifle stock in 1/2 a day from starting to scrap to polishing finish now and it lasts years.

to strip any stock of mine i use a product Circa 1850 furniture stripper, best one i've found wash away in water, wont damage the wood removes all junk, just wipe or wash off , use a toothbrush in chequering (not yours) , rub down with scotchbrite pads fine grit, dampen wood at times to raise broken grain and fibre's snad again, use tac cloth to clean and decontaminate the wood from dust and grime, use a good tung oil to finish, more coats the better finish, apply oil warm to soak in deep, work in and allow to dry, wipe off excess , add again.

 

 

if he goes to the trouble of taking off all that **** varnish for a QUOTE " i'd like to put a matt oil finish on it to take away the glare" UNQUOTE, why tell him how to put it back on ?

 

he wants oil not that hairdresser stuff

 

by the way if you "can do a rifle stock in 1/2 a day from starting to SCRAP" he wont be calling you

 

just kidding

 

go with the oil finish all the time,hard work first time but worth it with the results

PM me if you need a pointer .

 

 

Martin

[mushty111]

thanks martin

i appreciate that.

i'm bound to be in touch

thanks again.......

[mry716]

The cellulose finish applied the way I do it looks virtually the same as an oiled finish and is indistinguishable from arms length or more. It is NOT a shinny finish but oiled semi matt effect.

 

I have tried 10's of different oils, preparations and commercially available products and although most do a good' job, as with everything else you need to do a 10 or more to gain the experience to do a 'good' one. This method provides a nice finish that is long lasting and will accept dents without cracking or flaking as normal varnish type finishes do and as I say looks as good as you would want your gun to look for years.

 

The only thing is you do need access to spray equipment and DIY type is fine.

 

AND YES I had missed off an 'E' hadn't I?

Edited April 6, 2006 by mry716

[mushty111]

thanks mry

i appreciate your advice and have taken it all in i think.

thanks again.