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Howa Update III


dunganick
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can i also say thanks to everyone who has added to this thread, its nice to have several minds working on the same problem :blink:

 

you lot have your uses :/

 

 

Nick, glad you are getting somewhere.

 

You should also be grateful to all the CZ owners for keeping their gobs shut during your difficult times :yes:

 

It hasn't been easy :unsure:

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can i also say thanks to everyone who has added to this thread, its nice to have several minds working on the same problem :yes:

 

you lot have your uses :yes:

 

 

Nick, glad you are getting somewhere.

 

You should also be grateful to all the CZ owners for keeping their gobs shut during your difficult times :/

 

It hasn't been easy :lol:

 

:lol: No, its not been too easy. :lol: :blink:

 

 

 

 

:lol:

 

i know

 

i will just have to shut you all up with some stunning groups this saturday

 

:unsure: Its all or nothing now :lol:

 

:lol: Looking farward to that Nick. :oops:

 

Frank.

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Look forward to seeing them mate, just make sure you have some very long targets just in case though :yes:

 

I ran out out of windage on my new Swaro, and there was a pain in the pit of my stomach as I though 'great what now?' - until I noticed they go the oposite way to Schmidts :blink:

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I ran out out of windage on my new Swaro, and there was a pain in the pit of my stomach as I though 'great what now?' - until I noticed they go the oposite way to Schmidts :blink:

 

:yes: I did that when i first got my S & B, as the windage is in German, at least it is on mine. :/

 

Frank.

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these are pictures of a stright edge running from either the front base or front ring. The picture is off how far the straight edge is from the rear ring/base

 

i have also turned the front base around and front ring, in every position it remains the same in relation to the rear mount, so the front is straight and true

post-1577-1150726262.jpg

post-1577-1150726315.jpg

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talked to brian he can only recomend trying new rear mounts

 

Brian seemed very reasonable, i still cant say im pleased with the delay (all 6months of it) but thats life, and at least his customer service (considering i didnt actually buy anything from him in the end) was very good.

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IF it comes down to shimming Nick, don't forget you can cut up feeler gauges that mechanics use for spark plug gaps and the like, they have the thickness written on them so you know how much you are raising it by.

 

But from the picture that looks a country mile out :blink:

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nick is there anyone there that can fixture up and machine the mounts true, we have done it a few times here brings the mounts in perfect alignment therefore not streesing anypoint of the scope, must be a machine shop there someplace ?? nice pic of the Mitutoyo digital vernier by the way (straight edge ) :blink:

 

Martin

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yes its a stunning bit of kit

 

Believe it or not they did a deal where if you gave them an old one and £20 (if memory serves me) they would give you one of their digital calipers or micrometers. We now have one of each.

 

I do have a friend who could machine them, but the problem is that the front ring can only be lowered 1-2mm before the scope touches the barrel, so i cant afford to loose any material up front. Not to mention the mounts and bases are only worth about £35, so its not alot of money in the scheme of things.

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Nick is there anyway you could manufacture a sub rail to run under the scope mounts lifting the whole unit say 3mm (.125" ) run it as a spacer between the two units maybe a slightly longer screw but with a retaining compound (loctite 495 ) it will not creep at all, can you send up some more pics of the whole area, id like to see more of the problem, two guys here built up their scopes having limited clearence below the end caps, anodize the pc of ally dark and it will fir nicely.

 

can you show the scope set on (not locked just in place) id like to see it .

 

Martin

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martin, i will get those pics done for the weekend

 

G.M.

 

The spacing of the screws is the same front and back, but not the spacing of the recievers, so full length bases will not fit.

 

I will give these burris signiture rings a go saturday, as well as trying a different base for the rear, and take it from there.

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cheers mate, i cant wait to actually get it sorted and start shooting some groups

 

got even more handloads to try now..... luckily im there all day :lol:

 

I hope you get it sorted mate, im sure you will, especially when your their all day.

Have fun. :good:

Frank.

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Right, below are most of the groups i shot (all 5 shot groups apart from the one with '4 shots' written on it)

 

they have writing on them which will start with a letter and then be followed by a number

 

The letter represents the bullet, and the number the powder charge.

 

So N22.5 is a Nosler 50grain (the hornadys were 50 grains as well) with a powder charge of 22.5

 

(i think one of them has n133 written on it.... this is just the powder type)

 

I was initially quite disapointed with groups, although conditions were not great with heat haze being a real pain, they will represent near enough the accuracy of the loads.

 

I think looking at the groups i will take the Nosler 23 grain load further, trying a few different charges above and below 23grains. I will also continue with the Hornady 23.5 trying different charges in that area.

 

 

So.... The rifle.. Well i took it to fultons (bisley), the first thing he said was its not the gun or your mounts... i was puzzled as it was out of line.. he said thats fine and normal on any rem 700 fit action, he said my main problem was lack of adjustment in bushnell scopes. So he took the gun off to install the burris rings with the 20 thou shim in the rear and the -10 thou in the front. This all went fine..... intrestingly he was going to install the mounts using my scope to twist on the ring, however after feeling the force required on my mounts used a bar instead (much to my relief)

 

The chap came back with the new mounts installed and it been bore sighted, and apparently my real problem was a burr under the front base, so the front was sitting too high, i never noticed this, and thank god he did or i might still be struggling.

 

So with the rifle sorted and me only £30 lighter i wandered down to the range.... did the clean shoot routine a few times and started shooting groups. The targets ive shown are all those of intrest, the others were shot whilst running in or suffered from pilot error :rolleyes:

 

I'm pretty happy with the gun, i feel consistancy could be much better and suspect the synthtic stock which is floated very slightly doset help at all, However my stock has been shipped and should *touch wood* be here next week.

 

Whilst shooting one of the chaps in my club suffered a pretty serious accident involving his gun and someone else's handloads, the loads were supposed to be 21.5 grains of RL7 (in a .223) however on inspection of one of the assembled cartridges it was 25.5 grains. Anyway this chap was shooting these handloads through his tikka when on one shot the shroud for the Bolt (plastic bit) exploded in his face, luckily his hooter caught most of it and was left with a few 1/4" gashes on his nose, but its much better than a 1/4" cut in his eye.

 

On inspection the brass had flowed from the base of the case back up the extractor and forced the firing pin back into the shroud. I have some pics and will get them up as soon as i can.

 

Seeing this accident and how easily it can happen really was an eye opener. Trust others handloads at your own risk!

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Good grouping that Nick, not bad at all mate. :rolleyes::yes: .

It will do for foxes spot on out to 300yds. :sly:

Just find the most accurate load id say and stick with it. :sly:

Glad its all sorted and the best of luck with it mate. :good:

Get some pics of foxes shot with that hot rod of yours and stick them up. :yp:

Frank.

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thanks mate

 

i will carry on load development, although i suspect getting the new stock which will be properly floated and glass bedded will help alot.

 

for the time being i will run up some of the most accurate hornady rounds and zero the rifle for those, then at least i can be getting on with some foxing even if its not pin points accurate yet.

 

The image below is a the group i shot with my dads .222 on the day, now he has backed the powder off a little to allow for the lapua cases thickness (used to use norma which have a larger volume) its singing again.

post-1577-1151245801.jpg

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thanks mate

 

i will carry on load development, although i suspect getting the new stock which will be properly floated and glass bedded will help alot.

 

for the time being i will run up some of the most accurate hornady rounds and zero the rifle for those, then at least i can be getting on with some foxing even if its not pin points accurate yet.

 

The image below is a the group i shot with my dads .222 on the day, now he has backed the powder off a little to allow for the lapua cases thickness (used to use norma which have a larger volume) its singing again.

 

Mash hole= long range dead fox. :good::rolleyes::yes::sly:

Frank.

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