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Hi, I am looking into reloading cartridges for the ten bore but I need advice on what equipment to get first. Could anyone give me a general outline of what is good/what to avoid? I shoot quite a few shells in a season so I don't mind buying the better stuff if it makes anything easier or better? I just don't have much clue as to where to start. I know someone that does it but it is always useful to get some different opinions :good:

 

Is there anywhere you would recommend buying from? I dont mind going second hand either.

 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

oh and will I have to get a chrono ect? An idiots guide would be great :lol:

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Guest cookoff013

as you`ve said 10bore, you have very little options,

the first would be to pan weigh everything.

the second would be to use a MEC single stage reloading machine in 10bore.

 

as for recipes, get lymans 5th, and some steel shot, as its a 10gauge, bb would be the minimum to run. BBB, and f/t shot would be alternative.

 

at those shotsizes, you`d have to weigh them too.

 

as for powders, alliant steel, and maybe some euro stuff. try to stick to 1400fps and 1500fps as the maximum speed. otherwise there will be too much recoil there. <serious, like>

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Thanks for the reply cookoff. I'll pick up that book and get some recipes off it :good: would you recommend the pan weigh or the MEC single stage? I should have said, I will be loading BBs in steel but I'll mainly be using lead for high birds inland. Is siarm cheap enough to buy from or do you really have to get a lot for it to work out cheap enough. I was thinking of lead 3's for a decent pattern?

 

Cheers again for the input!

 

Ps, where is the best place to lick up Alliant powder?

 

*pick

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Guest cookoff013

you`ll have to weigh alliant steel too. its a bitch to meter.

 

siarm are as good as any. they are cheap. i tend not to buy from them unless i have to. lead 3s can be shot out od a 3.5" 12bore well enough.

 

maybe go to 1s jut to make it worth while? in steel just start a BB minimum.

 

but i forgot the big BBs dont run right in the machines.

 

essentially, loading these is like printing your own money !

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you`ll have to weigh alliant steel too. its a bitch to meter.

 

siarm are as good as any. they are cheap. i tend not to buy from them unless i have to. lead 3s can be shot out od a 3.5" 12bore well enough.

 

maybe go to 1s jut to make it worth while? in steel just start a BB minimum.

 

but i forgot the big BBs dont run right in the machines.

 

essentially, loading these is like printing your own money !

 

Ah I was bring thick, you need the MEC and the pan weigh.

 

I could quite easily go for 1's,(that's what I generally use in my 12). I thought the 3's would pattern better.

 

So to confirm I need to buy:

Lead,(say 1's)

Powder,(Alliant?))

Hulls,(or should I ask around for once fired?)

Primers (if I remember correctly cx2000 were the ones to go for?)

And wads? What type?

 

Which MEC and Pan weigh should I look out for?

 

 

Apologies for the 20 questions :/ if I can get all the bits and pieces together then I'm sure my friend could show me how to put it all together. Knowing what to get to start off with is rather daunting but I'm sure it'll be worth it.

 

Really appreciate the help! :good: :good:

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A good informative book for loading is called "reloading for shotgunners by Rick Sapp", covers lead and non toxic in all gauges.

 

Blue Dot is a good powder for 10 bore lead loads, CSBO or "steel" for steel shot.

 

Another good supplier for you to look at is http://www.shotgunreloading.co.uk/index.html :good:

I have bought from here before and had very good service.

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cheers for the link :good:

A good informative book for loading is called "reloading for shotgunners by Rick Sapp", covers lead and non toxic in all gauges.

 

Blue Dot is a good powder for 10 bore lead loads, CSBO or "steel" for steel shot.

 

Another good supplier for you to look at is http://www.shotgunreloading.co.uk/index.html :good:

I have bought from here before and had very good service.

 

Thanks for the advice :good: Another member also PM'd me his website so I'll defo give him a shout.

 

I couldn't find any lead on his site other than 5s or 6s???

 

How many times can you reload a hull? I have some once fired cases that I have kept. I am just a little unsure how long they will last me or whether I should buy some more or not.

 

Cheers again!

 

 

 

ps If anyone has any CSBO recipies for steel BB loads I would really appreciate it so I have a rough idea as to what to stock up. I am looking for something around the 2 OZ 50g/upwards bracket :good:

 

 

Thanks!

Edited by wildfowler.250
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Claygame will sell all the lead shot sizes you need, and all the powders listed above. John at Shotgun reloading might also have everything you need, give him a call and have a chat, you will prob find he will be cheaper ?

 

You will be restricted to 1,1/2oz with steel shot on two counts, 1, case capacity, and 2, to get the velocity required for steel shot to be effective.

 

I will send you a PM with loads for CSBO and STEEL powder. As for your once fired hulls it will depend on cracks on the crimp area etc but dont expect to re-load them several times, you might find depending on winchester/federal that you will only manage one re-load ?

 

Finishing off your loads with a RTO (roll turn over) is another option to look at, they work very well and will be cheaper then buying a MEC. :good:

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Guest cookoff013

cheers for the link :good:

Thanks for the advice :good: Another member also PM'd me his website so I'll defo give him a shout.

I couldn't find any lead on his site other than 5s or 6s???

How many times can you reload a hull? I have some once fired cases that I have kept. I am just a little unsure how long they will last me or whether I should buy some more or not.

Cheers again!

ps If anyone has any CSBO recipies for steel BB loads I would really appreciate it so I have a rough idea as to what to stock up. I am looking for something around the 2 OZ 50g/upwards bracket :good:

Thanks!

 

i really dont think that the 10bore can be loaded to 2oz with steel. usually its about 1, 1/2oz or alittle more. steel really takes up a huge ammount of room, especially in the good shotsizes. you can go online and find some recipes. its easy. stick to them do not deviate.

here is an alliant load

 

3.5" 10gauge 1 5/8oz Steel 1,310 Fed 209A Steel Ballistics Products #3221000 37grains 10,100 psi.

please recheck the data

 

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/RecipePrint.aspx?shotype=1&weight=1.625&weightdis=1+5%2f8&shellid=525&gtypeid=10&gauge=10&lid=875

 

good luck.

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If you could find a Ponseness Warren 375 it would make an outstanding tool for your needs. I echo cookoff in sticking to a recipe--no substitutions--this is important with steel! The PW machine drops powder charges accurately and as said with large shot, most need hand feeding as they bridge in the drop tube. The best/easiest way to load large pellets is to take a used shotshell primer tray and tape off the number of holes not needed, dip into a container holding your large shot and rattle off the excess. For really large steel you allow 1 hole/pellet-- for BBs,1s you need 1/2 as many holes as you will get 2 pellets/hole. I load Blue Dot and sometimes 4756 IMR for both lead and steel. Blue dot is a little slower and seems to pattern better for me. Keep your shot in the 1 1/2 oz. range and push it around 1400 for most effective steel loads.

Precision Reloading(U.S)has a steel shot manual and supplies excellent wads and shot. Ballistic Products (U.S.} has some good info on the 10 gauge and steel reloading (Status of Steel)(The Mighty 10 Gauge) both are worth reading before you embark.

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Guest cookoff013

If you could find a Ponseness Warren 375 it would make an outstanding tool for your needs. I echo cookoff in sticking to a recipe--no substitutions--this is important with steel! The PW machine drops powder charges accurately and as said with large shot, most need hand feeding as they bridge in the drop tube. The best/easiest way to load large pellets is to take a used shotshell primer tray and tape off the number of holes not needed, dip into a container holding your large shot and rattle off the excess. For really large steel you allow 1 hole/pellet-- for BBs,1s you need 1/2 as many holes as you will get 2 pellets/hole. I load Blue Dot and sometimes 4756 IMR for both lead and steel. Blue dot is a little slower and seems to pattern better for me. Keep your shot in the 1 1/2 oz. range and push it around 1400 for most effective steel loads.

Precision Reloading(U.S)has a steel shot manual and supplies excellent wads and shot. Ballistic Products (U.S.} has some good info on the 10 gauge and steel reloading (Status of Steel)(The Mighty 10 Gauge) both are worth reading before you embark.

 

i would advise against this. in theory it should work, but in this country the shotsizes are misleading. went out and bought BBs but ended up with 1`s. then i bought some 4s and ended up with 5s. so there is a huge descepency in the shotsize issues. so weighing would be better, or atleast evaluating what shotsize was ordered, and what you actually have.

2s for ducks

BBs minimum for geese.

even with those shotsizes 1400fps is going to do something !

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Thanks for all the replies guys! Really appreciate it :good:

 

Im slightly confused though. I thought I just added a primer, added powder, wad, weighed shot and then just added it? then crimp?

 

My only other question is when is a buffer needed?

 

And I assume a spacer is something you use when you are using a lighter load in a larger cartridge?

 

 

Thanks again :good:

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I think its important to find out what make of ten you are going to use ?

 

I have given you the info assumeing its a modern ten bore, i hope its not an old ten with damascus barrels ?? :o

 

If thats the case then you wont be able to shoot steel shot through it.

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I think its important to find out what make of ten you are going to use ?

 

I have given you the info assumeing its a modern ten bore, i hope its not an old ten with damascus barrels ?? :o

 

If thats the case then you wont be able to shoot steel shot through it.

 

 

It should be fine stirky. It's a Basque sbs and the chokes are fairly open. Apparently there is enough meat in the barrels to bore them out to an eight,(although I appreciate this isn't a true eight ect but it gives you an idea).

 

 

Cheers again guys for all the help and info :good:

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i would advise against this. in theory it should work, but in this country the shotsizes are misleading. went out and bought BBs but ended up with 1`s. then i bought some 4s and ended up with 5s. so there is a huge descepency in the shotsize issues. so weighing would be better, or atleast evaluating what shotsize was ordered, and what you actually have.

2s for ducks

BBs minimum for geese.

even with those shotsizes 1400fps is going to do something !

 

Cookoff I had forgotten the size difference in shot sizes between our countrys, I didn't realize it existed in steel shot as well as lead. I know some of your better waterfowl shooters are using American zinc plated steel shot(same as in Rem Nitro mags) The method I mentioned using a primer tray is pretty much universally used here by most who load large steel shot. I have used it since the 90s for BBB and T shot and also the smaller sizes(BB-1s).I only use this technique for larger size steel and lead as the smaller sizes will drop quite nicely.I am not sure how we got down to 4s and 5s, they normally drop from a charge bar. It wouldn't take much effort to see how many pellets would fit into a space and tape off the appropriate number regardless of size. If I had a question about the size shot I was using I would likely use my vernier caliper and measure it to be sure.

It would seem extremely tedious to weigh out each charge of steel, most reloading manuals list the number of a certain size pellets per oz. and from there a calculator will get the exact number you need for your desired load.

At any rate This method has worked without fail for myself and others here for quite a while and if you have a spare moment or two give it a try and see if it isn't close enough, or as an alternative dip then weigh---either way!!!!

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My heads slowly going to pop going through all this :lol:

 

Is zinc plated steel better than ordinary steel?

 

I'm going to start by reading some manuals I think :hmm:

 

There is much to learn but plenty of time to study before the next season!! I have tried 3 brands of steel shot and have had some steel that wouldn't even roll off a piece of glass! I like my shot slick and round and Precision Reloading has the best product I have found. Ask Bakerboy-- if you want good result, start with good ingredients. Zinc plated shot seems to penetrate really well, perhaps the slick coating helps. The initial idea was to stop the possibility of the shot rusting together and forming a steel slug.You read a lot about Remington Nitro Mags on the forum, cut one open and have a look at the shot---zinc plated shot.

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There is much to learn but plenty of time to study before the next season!! I have tried 3 brands of steel shot and have had some steel that wouldn't even roll off a piece of glass! I like my shot slick and round and Precision Reloading has the best product I have found. Ask Bakerboy-- if you want good result, start with good ingredients. Zinc plated shot seems to penetrate really well, perhaps the slick coating helps. The initial idea was to stop the possibility of the shot rusting together and forming a steel slug.You read a lot about Remington Nitro Mags on the forum, cut one open and have a look at the shot---zinc plated shot.

 

Thanks, I'll probs just get some zinc played then. I've only heard good stuff about the Remington nitro. so it can't hurt.

 

Thanks very much for the reply :good:

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:good: Il second that zinc plated shot(if you can get it)and a primmer tray for the large steel shot .Iuse a large rifle tray stuck to a lolly stick costs nothing and once you have checked it against you scales your away puts 90 BBB in a 10g every time

as you have found (looking at the replies on the wildfowling forum)you can ask a dozen reloaders and get conflicting info which doesnt help much when you are starting out

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:good: Il second that zinc plated shot(if you can get it)and a primmer tray for the large steel shot .Iuse a large rifle tray stuck to a lolly stick costs nothing and once you have checked it against you scales your away puts 90 BBB in a 10g every time

as you have found (looking at the replies on the wildfowling forum)you can ask a dozen reloaders and get conflicting info which doesnt help much when you are starting out

 

 

++ If you want to see what your finished crimps should look like check out a post by UK showing some of his loads. Another key element, good crimps = consistent patterns,powder burn.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm looking into home loading shotgun cartridges seems quite interesting.

 

Has anyone brought anything from precision reloading?

 

And also does anyone have any involvement with Dorset Wildfowllers?

 

Any help/information would be greatly appreciated.

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  • 1 year later...

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