HDAV Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 first of all, forget using oil or glue or honey on chokes, use grease or gun grease on them. never use oil. the proofhouse proof tests cartridges, not chokes. the proof barrels are cylinder choke. all the pressure is generated in the chamber. Proof house also test barrels? But does a projectile exit the barrel or is it just gas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportsbob Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 From what I've seen of hatstands, the way the choke is set up is part of the problem. Most chokes are threaded at the base. The hatsan ones seem to be threaded at the top, this strikes me as a bad plan all round, since it makes it easier for gas, shot and other **** to get under the unthreaded end, increasing the chance of the choke going belly up. Couple this with poor tolerances and you get problems. My Beretta chokes are almost identical to the Hatsan chokes and I beleive the Benelli chokes are also, I can use either make in either gun. The slight difference is the Beretta choke is about 10 thou longer. Just for info my Browning Invector chokes and the Lanber chokes in the wifes gun and every other choke I have owned has had the thread at the end. Regarding the step in the barrel to the choke, the Beretta barrel is tighter than the start of the choke and so is the Hatsan. I even measured the start of all my chokes for both makes and found them to be identical to each other, the exit on the Hatsan full chokes is very very slightly tighter than the Beretta. I have never had a choke come loose whilst shooting but I do use a Teflon based grease on the threads. Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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