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.22lr high velocity or .17hmr


Schmoo
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Thanks for that I will havd to save and save and save some more, if you were on a budget of say £150 what would be a good starting point ?

I would be shooting the hmr all day but at last light would be its prefered time for me.

Am I more interested in the mag or the optic diameter, ie 50 56 40mm ?

Thanks and sorry for the stupid questions, I just dont want to buy one and then have to re buy another a week later and so on. But money is an issue.

Schmoo.

 

The larger the object lens the better. It will gather more light and increase the size of exit pupil. The exit pupil is the width of the focused light beam which transmits the image that exits the eyepiece of the scope and enters your eye. Your eye pupil can only dilate to 7mm. So an exit pupil of less than 7 reduces the amount of light reaching your retina and the image will appear dimmer than seeing with the naked eye. An exit pupil of more than 7 transmits more light than your eye pupil can accept and so is of no benefit.

To determine the optimum exit pupil of a scope divide the width of the object lens by 7 and that gives you the highest mag you can use without the image dimming. On a 50mm scope, 50 divided by 7 is 7.14, so 7 power mag will give you the brightest image. On a 56mm lens, its 8 power (7X8=56). So to use a 50mm scope to the very last of the light you will have to turn the mag down to 7 power, and a 56 down to 8. I wouldn't go smaller than 50mm for dusk shooting.

I've shot rabbits out to 180 yds on 7 power with my HMR. I don't make a habit of it- my usual rang 150/160- because beyond that wind starts to cause problems, but I can see to place the shot perfectly well at that range. You've got used to using the Hubble telescope to see 100 feet. Time and practise will take that out of you, just take your time and extend your range/mag comfort zone gradually.

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An HMR with a decent scope-mounted lamp with dimmer is useful. You can shoot through dusk, and when the light gets so poor that you can't see the reticle clearly you can use the lamp dimmed down. When it's totally dark I spot rabbits with an NV monocular, get the rifle roughly on them, then wind up the dimmer slowly from nothing until I have just enough light to shoot. Winding it up slowly doesn't spook them so much.

 

I have an add-on Merlin which I use on a 22LR, but it's more hassle than using the lamp method.

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An HMR with a decent scope-mounted lamp with dimmer is useful. You can shoot through dusk, and when the light gets so poor that you can't see the reticle clearly you can use the lamp dimmed down. When it's totally dark I spot rabbits with an NV monocular, get the rifle roughly on them, then wind up the dimmer slowly from nothing until I have just enough light to shoot. Winding it up slowly doesn't spook them so much.

 

I have an add-on Merlin which I use on a 22LR, but it's more hassle than using the lamp method.

Can yiu suggest a decent lamp for the hmr night set up, not too stupid money though, or does it have to a red flter, millions of candle power etc etc.

Thanks Schmoo.

Edited by Schmoo
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Please don't think i am having a dig because im not As 39TDS states he knows his rifle and he knows what it can do and with this comes experiance. Get used to shooting during the day at different distances with one caliber then try lamping forget NV unless you have a hole in your wallet. I shoot on my own and use a NV Monocular to search and a scope mounted lamp to shoot. Shooting at night is a lot harder that during the day distances seem different for one.

 

I feel totally comfortable with each caliber i use but that is years of practice and knowing not just my firearms but the land i shoot over.

 

Like i say please don't think i am having a dig just want to pass on that bit of experiance.

 

Good Luck

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Please don't think i am having a dig because im not As 39TDS states he knows his rifle and he knows what it can do and with this comes experiance. Get used to shooting during the day at different distances with one caliber then try lamping forget NV unless you have a hole in your wallet. I shoot on my own and use a NV Monocular to search and a scope mounted lamp to shoot. Shooting at night is a lot harder that during the day distances seem different for one.

 

I feel totally comfortable with each caliber i use but that is years of practice and knowing not just my firearms but the land i shoot over.

 

Like i say please don't think i am having a dig just want to pass on that bit of experiance.

 

Good Luck

No worries, non taken.

Just didnt have the money to go all out and get everything. I know both have their place and in time I want both, I guess if money was no object I would have both calibers in dedicated nv and day version, but dont have the dosh.

I am just after some options and ideas so I can plan finances etc for the future.

Do like the sound of a hmr with half decent optics for day and night work, with either a nv add or or variable power lamp for just after dusk if I want to stay out or for just before first light.

Got to start somewhere, I will eventually have both calibers as they are both good at what they do. Just got to save the old.pennies and take a good year or so to fund this all !!!!!!!

Regards Schmoo.

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Never had any issues with accuracy with HV rounds. I just tried a few makes of hv rounds and found the one that shot a bit higher (rather than including a windage element) than my subs, that way I can use the SR6 reticle on my Hawke scope for both subs (eley) and hv's (rem yellow jackets). :good:

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  • 2 months later...

The cheapest way would be to buy a decent scope with a solid 'click' and count the clicks from one zero to the other so you can switch between the subs and HVs even in the dark and still be on zero

 

There is always the option of fitting a multi-zero scope, one zero for subs and one for HV, Burris did a cheap (cost and quality?) for the sako quad, Or at the other end kahles do an expensive one.

 

 

Or buy 2 guns, 2 guns is also good! :good:

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