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The snaring and trapping tips thread.


SSS
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I searched recently for advice on snaring foxes, and found lots of threads started on the subject, with lots of different techniques and tips. So because it's ******* it down with rain outside, I thought I would set about rounding all of this knowledge up, and sticking it together in one nice bundle. Feel free to add anything worthy to this thread, and if I'm wrong in anything I say, please correct me by all means.

 

Snaring

Now, the first point I should make is that there is rather a lot of rules surrounding snaring, which are as follows (Taken from the <BASC (link)> website);

1.Only free running snares which contain a 'permanent stop', 9" (23cm) from the eye of the snare should be used.

 

2.Use good quality snares which incorporate a strong swivel. The wire must not be less that 460lbs (208 kilos) breaking strain.

 

3.Snares should be supported by a suitable 'tealer' or set-stick and set firmly in the ground. Tealers made from fence-wire are easy to conceal, set and make.

 

4.Snares must be firmly anchored.

 

5.Ensure that snares run freely and are free of 'kinks'. Snares which are frayed or damaged should be discarded.

 

6.Snares should be set so that the bottom of the loop is at least 9" (23cm) off the ground under normal conditions and up to a height of 12" (30cm) or more, on open ground. When setting snares at these heights the loop should be 6" to 7" (15/18cm) at its deepest point.

 

7.The law requires that snares should be checked at least once a day. BASC recommends inspection at least twice a day and as soon after dawn as is practical.

 

8.Foxes should be dispatched quickly and humanely by a shot from a rifle, shotgun or pistol and the body disposed of responsibly e.g. by burying.

 

9.The displaying of carcases serves no useful purpose and can offend other countryside users.

 

Also, make sure you know what you are snaring by identifying runs and tracks. Look out for fur on fences and other objects, fox tracks and that typical stinky fox smell. You cannot set snares to catch badgers, birds or deer by law.

I like to stick them well out of the way of footpaths and human contact, simply because people don't like to see it.

Use a little common sense on where you set your snares, not on a narrow bridge crossing a stream for example, that's asking for trouble if anyone spots it (You can't set a snare anywhere that it will purposely cause harm).

 

 

So, on to techniques.

The first thing I would suggest is, don't use snares fresh from the shop or packet, they will stink of newness to Charlie fox and he will simply go around it. I like to bury mine a few inches under the turf with a little bit of horse **** for a couple of days, just to get rid of any new or human smells. Make sure you put a stick in the ground so you know where you buried them, it's much less hassle than digging out the 'owd metal detector... "I know they're here somewhere." When you have identified a well used fox track, wait for it to rain a little before setting it up (not always possible I know) because it helps cover up your smells. Now, you've found your fox track, you've got a suitable and sensible place to anchor your snare down, and you're ready to crack on with it. Dig up your snares, making sure you get lots of soil on your hands to mask your stink, and head off to your ideal spot. Do this as early as possible, so any smell you leave has all day to disappear. Tether your snare to whatever you are using, be it a fence post (knocked in) or a steel bar hammered into some terra firma nice and deep and get it set. Drag lines are no longer allowed. They do work very well, but I would never condone using one. 9" to the bottom of the snare wire is spot on. Make sure the loop is nice and big and pear shaped. Try not to disturb any pathways or tracks while you are doing all of this because, again, you are putting more human stench on the floor around your snare. Once it is set, and looking good, walk away happy in the knowledge that it will work. Foxes are creatures of habit, they tend to be in the same place, at the same time almost every night. Fingers crossed, you'll have one the next day. Make sure you check your snares every day, twice a day if it is possible. Leave it in one spot for at least a week to give it chance. Chances are if you haven't caught after a week, you're wasting your time, and best to move it to another spot. If after a week, you haven't caught, but there is new evidence of foxes in the area (poo or fresh tracks), you've done something wrong, move your snares to a different location and start again. You don't have to bury them again though, so miss out that part, but still make sure your hands are dirty, covered in soil and mud. If you catch in your snares straight away, make sure you dispatch the fox with a shotgun or rifle as soon and as quickly as is possible. If it is a non-target species, release the animal as soon as you can to avoid any further damage

 

Stick to the rules, and use a little common sense, and your snares will do their job.

 

I hope this helps anyone looking for advice on snaring, all this information I read and was told has helped me out.

 

Trapping

Last year, I had a trap set in 3 different locations, but never managed to catch a fox. The reason? I don't know. It had to be down to me somehow, something I was doing wrong. I spoke to a gamekeeper friend who uses fox traps who gave me some useful advice, although I am yet to try it out. Later this spring is when I'll get the trap set, just in time for fox cubs.

The trap you use will make things easier, or harder for yourself. Always make sure it's big enough for a large dog fox to get all the way in, before the door closes behind him. My trap is 7 foot long. Make sure the hinges or slider and catch mechanism are working properly, and are nice and loose. If you make your own trap, leave it outside for as long as possible before using it, to remove any human, or artificial smells. As with snaring, make sure you identify fox tracks and locations you know to have foxes. Don't set the trap on a run, rather, a few feet away from it so as not to put foxy off doing his daily commute. Use a nice stinky bait, rabbit with it's belly split open so the guts hang out is perfect, as is roadkill pheasant. Get your hands nice and muddy again before handling the trap to mask your smell. Take the trap to the location you want it, with plenty of bait. Place the trap in position and cover the bottom with soil, sand or lots of grass. Charlie wont like the feel of the metal bars under his feet. To start with, open the trap up and set it, but dont put any bait inside. This next step isn't key, foxes are opportunists and will take food offered to them. For a few nights, feed around the entrance to the trap to get them used to it's presence. After 3 or 4 nights of feeding outside the trap, start to feed slightly inside the door of the trap to encourage him to take the food inside. Another couple of nights, once he is comfortably taking his food from inside the trap, tie your bait to the trigger mechanism. Hopfully, fingers crossed, you will have something the next day. As with snares, make sure you check your traps daily, or twice a day if possible. Don't disturb it too much when you check it. NTTF gave a recipe for some attractant which I am going to try this spring and summer, that can be found <HERE>, which will be great for masking your smell and attracting foxes to your trap.

 

It's quite a read right there, I know, but if I have missed anything out, let me know.

Please share your tips and techniques and secrets here, to help out anyone new into the world of vermin control.

I will stick some pictures up to go with this thread when I get around to it.

 

Good luck, and all the best,

SSS :good:

Edited by SSS
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Interesting thread, especially if your fox control is a serious issue.

When lambs are disappearing each night (at £100 odd a pop or chickens / pheasants are getting cleared) then every method should be considered.

 

Recently doing some lamb protection on a new patch:

Fox 1 was shot within an hour of being shown the area

Fox 2 took well over 25 hours over a few days

Fox 3 took a new high seat and 5 hours sat up

There are more.

 

So with this history I started to look at other methods.

The www.protrapper.co.uk website has been useful for all sorts of stuff, but a bit like looking into centrefire calibers for the first time, hugely confusing for a first look at this stuff.

 

His YouTube links, I think are under hampshire trapper are very good and show how the stuff works in the field. I recently spent a couple of days in Norfolk (cue Mungler jibes!!!) on a couple of courses finding out all about fox trapping / snaring & Grey squirrel trapping.

 

For the first time ever I have a few Fenn traps buried in the garden, have built two tunnels & have some more stuff on the way.

 

Can't wait, to catch up with a few extras around the edges.

 

Cheers

AndyCM

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Set correctly, snares should be too high to catch badgers.

 

Also a snare should not kill anything, just hold it till it can be shot. Henceforth you should be able to release any non target species.

what about the cage traps thoughe there is nothing stopping brock from wandering in?? i mean obviously you would release it, but isnt it an offence to even trap one accidentley??

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what about the cage traps thoughe there is nothing stopping brock from wandering in?? i mean obviously you would release it, but isnt it an offence to even trap one accidentley??

It isn't an offence to trap badgers by accident and according<BASC, LINK HERE>;

;

* Cage traps can be used to take any animal which is not protected e.g.fox.

 

* Cage traps should be inspected at least once every day and target animals despatched quickly and humanely and the body disposed of responsibly e.g. by incineration or burial.

 

* Any non-target species must be released unharmed

 

But as I say, make sure you identify areas where foxes are present and you should only catch one thing. Although badgers have the right teeth to eat meat, they tend to stick to worms and snails. If you do happen to catch one, and it's an angry ******, get to the back of the trap before you open the door. They can be quite nasty when upset or if they think theyre cornered.

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  • 8 months later...
...

 

So with this history I started to look at other methods.

The www.protrapper.co.uk website has been useful for all sorts of stuff, but a bit like looking into centrefire calibers for the first time, hugely confusing for a first look at this stuff.

...

 

HANDS OFF PROTRAPPER !!!

Doesn't deliver and you won't get your money back.

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HANDS OFF PROTRAPPER !!!

Doesn't deliver and you won't get your money back.

 

Haven't they gone bust and stopped accepting orders or something?

 

 

To add my own trapping tips, maize works well for trapping grey squirrels. Relatively cheap, keeps for a long time, and it works very well. The yellow stands out better than other baits so it can be better at attracting squirrels. It is also readily available in bulk.

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so could you please tell me ,if i accidentally catch a cat or badger how do i get it out of the snare ALIVE ? :no:

 

Have seen that in Spain. Alive trap, log wooden stick and at the end a y shape. Press down the neck / head on the ground, fix the animal with it pull the loop of the snare over and free the cat is. But a badger ... :lol: I would try it ;-)

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Have seen that in Spain. Alive trap, log wooden stick and at the end a y shape. Press down the neck / head on the ground, fix the animal with it pull the loop of the snare over and free the cat is. But a badger ... :lol: I would try it ;-)

well let me tell you a badger is easy compared to a cat in a snare ,the cat will wrap around your leg while in the snare and start crawling up your leg,that's 4 sets of claws in you ,he will also be biting and spraying you, brock on the other hand will spin like a top , a bit like when you have a nice eel on while fishing . you need a short stout stick with something like a curtain hook screwed into the end , a little bit of the hook cut off so it's like a "c" rather than hook , one hand holding the wire and the hook used to get under the wire and pull ,this should give you enough slack to let a head out ..that's one way .i always use method 2 .
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well let me tell you a badger is easy compared to a cat in a snare ,the cat will wrap around your leg while in the snare and start crawling up your leg,that's 4 sets of claws in you ,he will also be biting and spraying you, brock on the other hand will spin like a top , a bit like when you have a nice eel on while fishing . you need a short stout stick with something like a curtain hook screwed into the end , a little bit of the hook cut off so it's like a "c" rather than hook , one hand holding the wire and the hook used to get under the wire and pull ,this should give you enough slack to let a head out ..that's one way .i always use method 2 .

 

Sounds you had a lot of "fun" in the past. :shifty:

 

Thanks for the advice

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  • 3 weeks later...

In 2012 I set 5 snares and caught 3 foxes. In years before I must of set 50 on various runs with no results. Biggest two rules to follow will almost guarantee a fox capture in 10 days.

 

No 1 : don't use existing runs and tracks... Make your own track by trampling grass or bracken down to a well worn track a fox will instinctively run up here.

 

no2 spread your hand out and put your little finger or the ground and set the bottom of the snare at the top of your thumb.

 

Bingo fox

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