Mangled99 Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Just bought a 38/357 Marlin for a cheap price and I need to make up some rounds for it. As its an 18 1/2 barrel I can get 9 x 357 rounds into the tube or 10 x 38 rounds. As I haven't got any dies or brass or anything else for this yet I was thinking of going the 38 spl route and as it will be used at an indoor range at 25yds I was wondering where I should start. Any advice on loads, bullet heads and primers to start me off with a fairly accurate round would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imperfection Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 If you're gonna only be shooting upto 25mtrs then a 158grn RNFP (round nose flat point) hard cast lead bullet in a 357 case with CCI 500 primer and 6 grains of Bullseye will see you good.Its easy on the shoulder and accurate. However,if you want to push the distance upto 100mtrs then same bullet,same primer,but with 12 grains of Alliant 2400 powder is superb.This load can be zeroed at 25mtrs and has same point of aim at 100mtrs.Very accurate load in my Winchester.Theres a lot more recoil though as this is a full on magnum load. I steer away from 38 special cases because i dont shoot jacketed rounds and stick to hard cast lead bullets instead because they're cheaper (especially when you cast them yourself so cost nothing).The problem with underlevers is that when a rifle is chambered for 357 and you use shorter 38's-the round does not sit in the correct place in the chamber so the bullet when fired has to leap into the barrel and this leaves a ring of lead on the forcing cone-which unless you dissasemble the rifle is nigh on impossible to remove. Reloading equipment wise-i use Lee stuff and despite its critics i can make damn accurate loads for various calibres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1066 Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 If you're gonna only be shooting upto 25mtrs then a 158grn RNFP (round nose flat point) hard cast lead bullet in a 357 case with CCI 500 primer and 6 grains of Bullseye will see you good.Its easy on the shoulder and accurate. However,if you want to push the distance upto 100mtrs then same bullet,same primer,but with 12 grains of Alliant 2400 powder is superb.This load can be zeroed at 25mtrs and has same point of aim at 100mtrs.Very accurate load in my Winchester.Theres a lot more recoil though as this is a full on magnum load. I steer away from 38 special cases because i dont shoot jacketed rounds and stick to hard cast lead bullets instead because they're cheaper (especially when you cast them yourself so cost nothing).The problem with underlevers is that when a rifle is chambered for 357 and you use shorter 38's-the round does not sit in the correct place in the chamber so the bullet when fired has to leap into the barrel and this leaves a ring of lead on the forcing cone-which unless you dissasemble the rifle is nigh on impossible to remove. Reloading equipment wise-i use Lee stuff and despite its critics i can make damn accurate loads for various calibres. Good reply there - I would also advise against shooting .38 Specs in a rifle chambered for .357 as a regular thing - If a comp required 10 rapid fire shots and your rifle feeds .38's reliably then fine, now and again and a good clean to remove the carbon ring will be ok but personally I wouldn't do it. If you have ever tried to remove the carbon ring out of a .357 revolver after using .38 ammo for any length of time you will know just hard it is, it may look bright and shiny in the chamber but that carbon is as hard as iron. .357 lee carbide dies are what you want, (Can't get better for this type of case) they will reload .38 spec and .357. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mangled99 Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Thanks for the reply's, I also put this question on another forum after a day as I'd had no replies. I got the same advice about using the 38 ammo which makes sense, one guy told me that you can get 10 357's into the tube on a Marlin but the spring had to be cut down a little so I will try that. I have been told that Bullseye is quite a dirty powder and have had lots of different suggestions. I am leaning towards Tightgroup, Accurate No2 or 5 or maybe trailboss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vince Green Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 (edited) On the other hand and just to play devils advocate 3.5 grns of bullseye in a .38 spec case with a 158g bullet is as cheap as chips Bullseye dirty? no way. Its still the best, and the original. Send me a PM I have thousands of .38 spec cases and will sell you as many as you want ( they are club range pickups). Buy your bullets from this man and listen to his advice, He knows what he is talking about http://www.tfsa.co.uk/index.html Edited August 31, 2012 by Vince Green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imperfection Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 In addition-if you're wanting to bring your reloading costs right down try using 6 grains of Vectan A1 powder.This stuff is cheaper than an essex whore at £19 per 1/2kg and just use same cast bullets and same primers.Only niggle is to get it at that price you'll need to get hold of http://www.peterlawman.co.uk/ which isnt easy nowadays,but do try him regardless. As for Bullseye being dirty-no more than any other fast burning powder which a boresnake removes in seconds anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mangled99 Posted September 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 That TFSA site has some good info and I will give him a ring, I have already tried to contact Peter Lawman a few days ago (as his bullet heads are £49.50 per 1000) by phone and email but without any luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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