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Shot making, having a go


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Right then, I've been having a bit of an experiment and have come up with a few questions

 

I've been dripping it into water, I know it's not the right way but as said it's just an experiment at the moment - the "shot" is all pretty consistant but is flat ovals, would that be cured by using the correct coolant?

 

I've been using copper grease on the ramp, however this tends to burn, is that normal?

 

I've used 0.65mm holes, the lead seems to have difficulty getting through them - any ideas why?

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Flats will probably be from dropping the lead from too high up, you want the ramp as close as possible to the coolant. Buy some cheap fabric conditioner just to make life easier and don't let the lead get over hot. If the crackling is really loud or you get popcorn it's too hot.

 

You burn off the copper grease before you start dropping shot as the ramp heats up so all the carrier has gone leaving a thick film of the copper paste, like teflon to the touch.

 

You need more head for the lead to flow, ie, enough weight of lead pushing it thru. The pot should have a tilt on it to aid this and having linotype in the lead mix also helps flow.

 

Post a pic, my first attempts were awful but it just takes practice.

 

Also look on youtube for lead shot maker, there's loads of examples to study now.

Edited by sitsinhedges
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not bad for a first attempt its a big learning curve.

 

as sits says 30 deg from horizontal other wise the shot is going to fast and will flatten out on impact on the water surface due to surface tension the reason for the Landry fabric softener that reduces it.

 

for the drip trays you need metal container evan 2/3 bean tins and swap them over as it looks like theres only 1 drippier at the moment.

and get them close to the bottom of the ramp as the plastic bowl will just melt .

 

you can leave the bowl under the pot to catch the over flow from the cans other wise you loose all the fabric softener all over the floor :no::good:

 

p.s. sits is the shot making king there is one other but he says he retired form shot making :sad1:

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no a hot plate not get hot enugh you need a boiling ring from a cooker and one of the controler ***** called a simmerstat.

 

you not get bigger than say no5 shot

 

i had a bach of exclimation mark shot :hmm: ,,,,,,,, which was caused by a bur on the ramp thay worked ok but the whistleing that came from them was a little strange :lookaround::good::w00t:

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Well i have been struggling of late too .

 

 

got a pot made for me in stainless steel bought simmerstat element etc.

 

could not get it to drop round lead shot slight flat on top and bottom spent hours messing about with it.

 

Put home made pot on frame, round shot scratching my head for what was wrong.

ls001.jpg

 

th_mk1001.jpg

 

Then i looked at ramp on stainless pot with an angle sensor it was 30degree on plans it was 12 degrees so no wonder it wont work

 

stainless pot at fabricater to be altered.

Edited by brian28
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Might get chance to have another go over the weekend so a couple more questions;

 

What I've in mind is a bit of channel about 6" wide, 8" long and 4" deep (any reason not to use mild steel?)

 

A bit of angle welded onto one of the open ends with the holes drilled in it for drippers and the other side sticking out to form the ramp - this will be stainless if I can get hold of any, and polished if needs be?

 

Will welding the angle square and having the whole lot at 30' work?

 

Does the depth of the holes matter? I.e. if I drill them through 6mm thick angle, is that any better or worse than 3mm?

 

 

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Might get chance to have another go over the weekend so a couple more questions;

 

What I've in mind is a bit of channel about 6" wide, 8" long and 4" deep (any reason not to use mild steel?)

 

A bit of angle welded onto one of the open ends with the holes drilled in it for drippers and the other side sticking out to form the ramp - this will be stainless if I can get hold of any, and polished if needs be?

 

Will welding the angle square and having the whole lot at 30' work?

 

Does the depth of the holes matter? I.e. if I drill them through 6mm thick angle, is that any better or worse than 3mm?

 

The only problem with mild steel is long term corrosion which can block the drippers. The problem with welding a square angle on and tipping the whole thing 30' is that there isn't much contact with the heat source cos all the lead will be at one end of the pot, not so much of a problem if you're using gas maybe. mine is 12' tilt on the base and 18' angle on the ramp which works about right for my set up. Thicker is probably better because it will hold the heat more consistently I would imagine, don't make the ramp over long an inch or so is plenty. Start off basic and get more elaborate once you're making useable shot and don't forget the pictures :good:

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