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Learning reloading


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Been reading a lot lately, including a new book that I bought "The ABCs of reloading"...my head spins now...'m dreaming of wads ..primers...and fiocchi cases...lol.

 

Its far more technical than I thought or expected,....so....To every type of case theres a type of loading- to every type of powder there is a type of primer and type of wads.....and of course what load you want to use related to lead.

 

I'm collecting fiocchi empty cartdriges and hull at the moment and working on the shotmaker, but soon I will have to start an excel spread sheet with data loads.

 

A couple of question, Where do you buy the powder at the best price?, what type of powder do you use? Game or pigeon

 

Am I correct that assuming an average of 20 grain of powder you will be able to load round about 350-360 cartdriges?

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It's only as complcated as you wish to make it. The trick is to use as few variations as possible, for example just use a 28gram plastic load for everything then just vary the shot size in it for clay or game etc otherwise you will be forever adjusting your reloading set up and not get anywhere.

 

Powder is the difficult bit to buy cos many wont ship it, Peter Lawman used to do it cheaply but doesn't seem to be responding to calls anymore which is a pain. Clay& Game will ship but you have to buy 5kg to get free shipping and some of their powders are still very dear.

Edited by sitsinhedges
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It's only as complcated as you wish to make it. The trick is to use as few variations as possible, for example just use a 28gram plastic load for everything then just vary the shot size in it for clay or game etc otherwise you will be forever adjusting your reloading set up and not get anywhere.

 

I starting to realize that, it can get very complicated and the more I read or research on the internet the deeper you go.

 

My target its very simple for the moment, I would like to reload a cheaper cartdrige for pigeoning with fibre wad n6 28g and all round cartdrige for game with fibre wad too n5 32g (rabbit/pheasant/partdrige).

 

In your experience, which powder would you use, case, primers,wad.

 

I was thinking to buy 1000 cases with 25mm brass for the game type reload, to re-use and use recycled one like fiocchi and hull type for pigeoning

 

Thanks for all help

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thats a exspensive way buying primed cases. just go to the local clay ground with a bin liner and ask if you can have a russle through there bins then sort through like with like .as these things dont last long when fierd its not like buying rifle brass where you can shoot them time and time againe.

 

the most times i have reused a case was 4 times and it was taterd.

 

on a skeet there will be at leest 25 of the same if not more but dont bother with the eley or eny that you can see thrugh.

i find that the blue rc2 work well

 

game bore blue dimond

 

cci clay buster

all work well

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Guest cookoff013

where is your location?

 

reloading is easy, you just follow a recipe. buy the stuff, then build it, then shoot it.

what is the hardest part is selecting the right recipe to follow. there are hundreds of powders with tens of applications for each powder. there are a few powders that can be applicable to you.

 

what can be helpful to you is what sits in hedges said, change the shotsize to suit the application. it can produce a varied application cartridge.

 

what is a set standard components here is....

 

cx2000 - hot type primer, industrial standard.

4mm obturator, card

21mm fibre wad

lead

Vectan AS powder.

 

these components can be used to make, 24g loads, 28g loads, 32g loads, 32g subsonics. all with these same components!

 

i actually buy cases new, i also collect hulls chop off the crimp and roll turn.

 

i`m more of an experimental loader, it costs me a fortune to reload, as some of the components are either specialised / single use / single purpose powder.

i`m performance driven too, to me, there is no point reloading something that can come off a shelf.

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I am just getting into the shotshells myself. Reloading for the 10g and .410 also in time. Most of the gear is being made and adapted from what i already have. 10g cases are dear @ around 50p each plus carrage, i buy factory Remmington presently at £1:12 each so just collecting my empties makes economical scence- putting the loading and assembly of the first loading on virgin cases at not much less.

Even though the ten is an expensive case to load, the thing is home loads are versitile and available when you make your own- just like rifle ammo you get pet loads and stick with them, tayloring them to your personal requirements. i looked at reloading for my 12 but it aint that worthwhile until you get to the 3 1/2" stuff to my mind

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where is your location?

 

reloading is easy, you just follow a recipe. buy the stuff, then build it, then shoot it.

what is the hardest part is selecting the right recipe to follow. there are hundreds of powders with tens of applications for each powder. there are a few powders that can be applicable to you.

 

what can be helpful to you is what sits in hedges said, change the shotsize to suit the application. it can produce a varied application cartridge.

 

what is a set standard components here is....

 

cx2000 - hot type primer, industrial standard.

4mm obturator, card

21mm fibre wad

lead

Vectan AS powder.

 

these components can be used to make, 24g loads, 28g loads, 32g loads, 32g subsonics. all with these same components!

 

i actually buy cases new, i also collect hulls chop off the crimp and roll turn.

 

i`m more of an experimental loader, it costs me a fortune to reload, as some of the components are either specialised / single use / single purpose powder.

i`m performance driven too, to me, there is no point reloading something that can come off a shelf.

 

I'm in warwickshire matey

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