bicykillgaz Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hi, Just ordered some acraglas to bed my boyds stock on my cz, it has got a tiny bit of sidewards play/twist in it even when fully tightened up. I was wondering what the pro's and cons are between glass and pillar bedding. To me after looking at videos another member kindly emailed me links to (cheers nick) I personally think glass bedding looks like it would give a more stable platform as it is solid where as the pillars look like they could potentially come loose. Has anyone tried both methods and which do you get best results with? Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12borejimbo Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Gary, no offence meant mate, but if this is for a .22, is it really worth it? I have a Boyds Stock, probably the same one you have on my cz452 and I must say I have no play and it is dead accurate. Its a .22, not a heavy high powered recoiling rifle. I own a couple of centrefire rifles and have not bothered with bedding (although I am thinking about it on my .22-250) but I would not bother. Surely there must be another solution why the rifle is not sitting tight in the stock. Have you let the action in properly? What does the rifle group like? 2p groups I can get with Winchester subs at 60 yards shooting out of the window of my truck, even better off the bonnet of my truck on bags. If you can get the same mate I would not bother. Plenty good enough for vermin control. James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 From reading your post it seems you do not actually understand the process very well. To explain pillar bedding is always used in conjunction with glass bedding (realy it should be termed synthetic bedding) all the pillars do is stop any compresion under differing screw tentions (remember wood changes with the climate so screws can become tighter or looser). Done correctly pillars will never come loose and also help centralise the action screws with clearance. It is perhaps better to give the gun to someone who knows what they are about on this than have a go until you FULLY understand the why and how, there is a lot of bad info mixed in with the good on the net and its easy to get bedding wrong unless you understand the process and aims. If we are talking rimfire here i should just finish the inletting as what you get in a raw stock is normally not a "finished" inlet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieT Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) It's not a matter of glass or pillar. Glass bedding without pillars is a complete waste of time. If your going to bed the stock you must use pillars. Kent replied whilst I was typing, he's spot on. Edited October 9, 2012 by CharlieT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coyotemaster Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hi Gary, I know what you mean mean about the Boyds stocks they ae a bit generous in their inletting in order to acommodate any variations that may exist. I have all my centerfires glass bedded and feel it really helps any rifle, to me it is essential after floating the barrel to bed the action. I use 2 part epoxy and neutral shoe polish as a release agent. I use a piece of electrical tape on both sides of the recoil lug to give about .003 clearance in order to facilitate removal. PM me if you need more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coyotemaster Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 It's not a matter of glass or pillar. Glass bedding without pillars is a complete waste of time. If your going to bed the stock you must use pillars. Kent replied whilst I was typing, he's spot on. Sorry Charlie but my experience does not mirror yours concerning the pillars. I have bedded 7 rifles some with some without pillars. The pillars must be cut to exact length in order to be effective, too high and it looks terrible--too short and all the bedding is compressed out. The epoxy is harder than Chinese arithmetic when it hardens and the screws channels are exactly the same size as the screws(mine are usually threaded when I back out the screws)---SOOO I fail to see how it is wasted time to use the epoxy sans the pillars. I suppose experiences vary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olliesims Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 I have a boyds on my howa and sits fine although there is a bigger gap on the one side of the stock to the barrell than the other side it's still fully floating and shoots like a dream, are you 100% sure you need to bed it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Pillars are not always required, it depends on the stock type and intended use of the rifle. The action screws shoulkd have an all around clearance even when the lug is in full contact an action screw taking any recoil vibration is a bad thing. To achieve this you use oversize bedding studs ( thread same but the rest of the stud OD matches the ID of the pillar hole) OR wrap the action screws in electicians tape to centre and create clearance, remember the release agent!. Only the front of the recoil lug should be taped during the bedding process (to get a little clearance for later servicing) the idea is to get full lug contact on the rear face, to remove uneven stress on the action. One should carefully check the lug has no reverce taper though or you will get a lock in. Bedding should also rest the action level or recoil forces might create poor tracking on recoil. Can i make this clear, bad bedding is worse than no bedding and although its mainly about prep and clear -up you do need to understand fully before you set loose with the goo. Its impossible to teach bedding fully on a forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicykillgaz Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Sorry gents I've been looking online and it seems to be videos for one or the other so I assumed that was the norm. I'm bedding it because as coyotemaster has said the inletting is generous around the action once I'd realised the problem I solved it by making several thin packers which I slid in either side but I want a more permanent solution so decided to bed it. I was just curious about pillar bedding I think I understand it a little better now though, I originally thought the pillars was secured in the stock like a rawl plug. Accuracy wise I know the barrel is spot on so just need to sort the stock I'm not looking to turn it into some sort of match grade rifle I just want to sort the play in the stock/action and am pretty sure bedding it will fill any gaps sufficiently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Sorry gents I've been looking online and it seems to be videos for one or the other so I assumed that was the norm. I'm bedding it because as coyotemaster has said the inletting is generous around the action once I'd realised the problem I solved it by making several thin packers which I slid in either side but I want a more permanent solution so decided to bed it. I was just curious about pillar bedding I think I understand it a little better now though, I originally thought the pillars was secured in the stock like a rawl plug. Accuracy wise I know the barrel is spot on so just need to sort the stock I'm not looking to turn it into some sort of match grade rifle I just want to sort the play in the stock/action and am pretty sure bedding it will fill any gaps sufficiently. Plenty making tape and a sharp blade, remove squeeze out before it hardens any smears use White vinigar. You can dye some compounds to match the wood as it sounds like the bedding will be visible on this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicykillgaz Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Plenty making tape and a sharp blade, remove squeeze out before it hardens any smears use White vinigar. You can dye some compounds to match the wood as it sounds like the bedding will be visible on this one Cheers for the tips mate, it's the boyds forest camo so I was going to use the blue dye you get with the acraglas kit as there is blue in the pattern. I'll let you all know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 Any problems and apply heat and the bedding should soften. Sometimes you need to get the mallet out - a good reason why many use Bedding studs as mentioned previously ( you can turn everything upside down and rap on them) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicykillgaz Posted October 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 I've ordered a tap and die kit so I can hopefully make some studs, I'm then gonna tape them up to give the bolt a decent clearing. I'm also going to try and make a grub screw I've seen for holding the barrel lug in place in its channel. I've seen a set of replacement screws/bolts with hex heads on instead of slotted which I think are a great idea. Thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stalkersteve Posted October 14, 2012 Report Share Posted October 14, 2012 Go on YouTube it's all on there I did my 243 with a boyds stock. pillar bed and glass bed with no gunsmith experience just follow the step by step it now shoots like a dream ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.