Lee challenger kit

[rtaylor]

I'm looking to start reloading for my .243 mainly for cost but also accuracy. I am looking at the Lee challenger kit and a set of dies to start me off.

 

Is there anything else I would need from the word go? Obviously I would need to get the powder, bullets and primers. I've kept my brass.

 

Has anyone any experience with this Lee kit? And are the RBCS kits so much better to warrant being 3 or 4 times the price (cost being a factor of reloading)?

 

Cheers

[rem708]

Nothing wrong with Lee unless you want to churn out thousands of rounds

 

You will need a set of scales. Whilst Lee does have powder dippers they are just not good enough in my opinion.

 

A vernier is another useful tool for measuring case and overall cartridge length. Can get these cheaply enough

 

Use Lee case lube its far better than other sticky mixtures (I think it's in the kit anyway). One tube lasts for ever as you don't need to lube the whole case. Just the neck and about an inch up from the bottom. Its also water soluble so can be washed off with a little soapy water.

[moor man]

Hi RT. You will need a set of.243 dies, second hand lee are fine and if you can get the carbide set you dont need to lube the cases.

Not sure whats included but you may also need the case length gauge/shell holder/scales/digital micrometer is useful, kinetic hammer for dissasembling mistakes

Even if your kit has a powder measure/dispenser, you will still need scales.

I used my Lee Annvrsry. Kit for .243 then 6.5x55 and now .357mag so if you are into shooting (and not a halfwit) go for it! Read up or watch reloading tutorials on utube, if in doubt check it out, plenty on here to put you in the right direction ( a few to ignore as well ) hope that helps.

PS if your rifle likes Privi ammo then its not worth reloading to save money! cheers mm

[phaedra1106]

Just to clarify, Lee do not make carbide rifle dies, bottleneck rifle cases must be lubricated for sizing

[rtaylor]

This is what comes in the challenger kit:

 

Kit includes:-

• Lee Precision Breech lock challenger O frame reloading press
• Lee breech lock quick change bushings ONLY ONE SUPPLIED
• Lee Precision auto primer too w/set of 11 shell holders
• Lee Precision perfect powder measurew/stand
• Lee Precision powder funnel
• Lee Precision case trimmer
• Lee Precision chamfer tool
• Lee Precision safety reloading powder scale
• Lee Precision primer pocket cleaning
• Lee Precision tube of sizing lube

 

I've got a set of digital vernier's already. Is a powder trickler worth getting?

 

In terms of dies are these the ones to go for:

http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=LEE%5FPRECISION%5FDELUXE%5FRELOADING%5FDIE%5FSET

or the budget ones at half the price:

http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=LEE%5FRGB%5FRELOADING%5FDIES

 

Would I need a crimp die as well. Going to be using the rounds for hunting.

[rem708]

i have a tickler and hardly ever use it. Unless you are going to weigh every charge then its just not needed.

 

I would avoid the use of a crimp die. This is only needed if your bullets have a cannula and they tend to be only on FMJ military bullets.

 

If the neck sizing is good the tension will hold the bullets perfectly.

 

I even gave up using a crimp on pistol ammunition with the exception of high recoil rounds in a tube magazine.

[rem708]

Lee also make a Collet die. I use these where I can as you don't have to case lube and it makes the cases last a LOT longer

[rem708]

OK just checked the content of the Deluxe 3 Die set and that contains the Collet die. I would definitely recommend this as the cheapest option.

[rem708]

Reference Carbide Rifle dies: In general these are rare and expensive. If the case design contains a taper you still have to lubricate!!!!!!!

Only if the case wall is parallel can you dispense with lubrication.

 

Stuck cases are no fun It normally happens when there is insufficient lube at the bottom of the case where the metal is thickest. By this time the neck is firmly in the resizing portion of the die thus its impossible to pull out the decapping pin and the expander button. The button will NOT pass through the compressed neck.

 

Just to make things worse you are normally at the end of the press stroke and you can't get the case out of the case holder. Its unlikely you can unscrew the die to remove it that way. The only option is to break the rim off the case. If you are lucky this happens fairly easily but not always - especially with a aluminum framed press.

 

For the sake of a bit of lube its not worth the risk.

 

Steel dies will last a lifetime if you ensure they are kept clean, the cases are clean and you use lube sparingly