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Some care tips please...


DirtyDeeds
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I've recently stripped down my shotgun, taken it back to the bare wood, and Tru Oiled it to a beautiful finish (done my airgun stock at the same time) - taken me best part of a week.

 

I've even painted the trigger guard on the 'sporting' engraving with some Humbrol gold enamal which I 'scotch-brighted' off to leave just the engraving in a gold trim.

 

Now to re-assembly...

 

What type of oil/grease (ie silicon, graphite, thick, thin, etc?) does the firing mechanism require (all the bits inside the stock)? Someone mentioned moly (some sort of dry grease) - I have some molybdenum grease, is this any good?

 

The butt plate had silicon sealer on it - does this need replacing, or was it just something the last owner did?

 

Also, what oil to use in and outside the barrels (have heard the likes of WD40 can take off the bluing and separate the ribs from the barrels). Is 3 in 1 oil any good?

 

Many thanks in advance,

Steve

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:lol: I hope WD40 wont damadge the blue on my barrels I always use this on my air rifle and my shotgun and I have not had any problems yet, :lol:

 

any body else use WD40? have you had any problems?

 

Kipper :lol:

 

I have used WD40 on my shotgun for the twenty or so years that I have had it with no apparent ill effects, I wonder how these rumours start about it seperating the ribs from the barrels :lol:

 

AYA53-2.jpg

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Moly grease is a spray on grease that dries to a powder like coating, it's very like the graphite powder used to lubricate locks... it lubricates but doesn't collect ****. You can use molybdenum grease (it's the same stuff in a different applicator and with a different base) but use it very sparingly and wipe off ALL excess grease. Basically if you can see the grease then you've used too much.

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Thanks PO3.

 

I work as an engineer for a rather large, fast train operating company, so have access to more greases and oils than you can shake a fist at! So thanks for the info.

 

As for WD40 separating the solder joints.....

 

WD40 is 50% Stoddard solvent, aka White Spirit. White Spirit is a mixture of saturated aliphatic and alicyclic hydrocarbons. Aliphatics include not only the fatty acids and other derivatives of paraffin hydrocarbons (alkanes), but also unsaturated compounds, such as ethylene (the alkenes) and acetylene (the alkynes).

 

Using acetylene, the french chemist Marcellin Berthelot was the first to show that an aliphatic compound could form an aromatic compound when he heated acetylene in a glass tube to produce benzene with some toluene.

 

Toluene is a common solvent, able to dissolve: paints, paint thinners, many chemical reactants, rubber, printing ink, adhesives (glues), lacquers, leather tanners, and disinfectants.

 

So that's it folks.... Heat up WD40 and your producing a solvent that can disolve adhesives, lacquers, etc. I don't know in what percentages toluene is produced or it's effectiveness, but over a long period of time....

 

Think I'll be sticking to plain mineral oil (aka liquid parafin, from most pharmacists) - it's what I use to oil my Japanese swords!

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So that's it folks.... Heat up WD40 and your producing a solvent that can disolve adhesives, lacquers, etc. I don't know in what percentages toluene is produced or it's effectiveness, but over a long period of time....

 

Will it also make the solder joining barrels to ribs to come apart, does it dissolve metal?

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