Dunkield Posted March 5, 2007 Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 :( I never oil my barrels, and I very rarely take the bronze brush to them either. Having spent half a day laod testing at the weekend - it has opened my eyes to barrel cleaning I was working up through my loads and could't believe how much groups were opening up. The guns weren't getting too hot, I was resting betweens shots etc. As a last resort I cleaned both guns, just a patch and Butch's and then clean patches after that. The next three shots from the 6.5 were into about 1/2" and the 2 of 3 from .223 went through the same hole, the 3rd would have been very close to that if I hadn't rushed it Counting back, I reckon I had put about 25 shots through each gun before the clean - no way did I think they would need cleaning that soon. It is worth pointing that the barrels on both guns aren't that old, in real terms at least, they have had no more than say 300-400 through them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deerstalker Posted March 5, 2007 Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 I have got a problem that is driving me mad, my Tikka T3 s/s, which is fitted with a T8 mod, and 8x56 30mm Hung/Schmidt keeps needing re-zeroing after cleaning. I can zero it to about 1/2 - 1 inch group at 110 yards. I normally get 2 bullets almost through the same hole and the 3rd just slightly off forming a cloverleaf. However every time I take the Mod off to clean the rifle and then re-fit the mod the zero changes, it could be left, right, high or low but it will be between 2 to 6 inches off from its last zero. I have tried all the obvious things like making sure all the mounts are tight and that the action to stock screws are tight, it’s driving me made. The gun is almost new and has shoot about 50 rounds the mod was fitted by Richard Smith in Norfolk. The gun shoots very well with or without a mod it’s just the fact that you have to keep re-zeroing it after removing the mod, I am so p…. off I am thinking of selling it and buying a heavy barrelled Sako. Can anyone help. I had a similar problem recently with a Sako 75 Finnlite in 6.5 x 55. I spoke with the factory and they blamed the moderator for the behaviour you are describing, which didn't make sense to me... I thoroughly cleaned the bore with copper solvent, and it now seems fine... Maybe it will start again when copper fouling builds up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballie Posted March 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 Guys, I would just like to remind everyone looking at this post (which has got very long) that as the AUTHOR of this thread MY TIKKA is now working very well and my problem is solved. I can now remove my mod and clean my gun and it shoots in the same place when you try it after cleaning. Thanks again to all the people that have helped me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grahamu900 Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Hi All Guess what I have a T3 243 stainless synthetic/S&B scope and PES moderator and the same problems. I will have to go back to basics and start again. Has anyone managed to stiffen the forend. I was thinking of deep drilling a hole or even two holes, down from the front end and inserting silver steel rods or even stainless steel studding embedded in arraldite. It won't help weight but it might work any thoughts? I have just taken delivery of a T3 30-06 stainless Laminate threaded barrel (factory special order, 4 long months wait) Swarovaski scope. Shoots sub 1" 100mtrs straight out of box which has given back my waining confidence after the 243 saga. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadeye ive Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 Hi AllGuess what I have a T3 243 stainless synthetic/S&B scope and PES moderator and the same problems. I will have to go back to basics and start again. Has anyone managed to stiffen the forend. I was thinking of deep drilling a hole or even two holes, down from the front end and inserting silver steel rods or even stainless steel studding embedded in arraldite. It won't help weight but it might work any thoughts? I have just taken delivery of a T3 30-06 stainless Laminate threaded barrel (factory special order, 4 long months wait) Swarovaski scope. Shoots sub 1" 100mtrs straight out of box which has given back my waining confidence after the 243 saga. Graham Welcome to the forum Graham The stock is honeycombed so I'd be inclined to masking tape up the exterior and with expanding foam (Can buy it from wickes )carefully apply to the interior compartements and allow to cure before cutting away and sanding off the excess . If you have'nt used foam before have a play first before tackling your pride and joy mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grahamu900 Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Hi All Guess what I have a T3 243 stainless synthetic/S&B scope and PES moderator and the same problems. I will have to go back to basics and start again. Has anyone managed to stiffen the forend. I was thinking of deep drilling a hole or even two holes, down from the front end and inserting silver steel rods or even stainless steel studding embedded in arraldite. It won't help weight but it might work any thoughts? I have just taken delivery of a T3 30-06 stainless Laminate threaded barrel (factory special order, 4 long months wait) Swarovaski scope. Shoots sub 1" 100mtrs straight out of box which has given back my waining confidence after the 243 saga. Graham Welcome to the forum Graham The stock is honeycombed so I'd be inclined to masking tape up the exterior and with expanding foam (Can buy it from wickes )carefully apply to the interior compartements and allow to cure before cutting away and sanding off the excess . If you have'nt used foam before have a play first before tackling your pride and joy mate Thanks for the advice I have been planning the methology and as warned, it can be a very messy job. I've done a little research and you can vary the density of the foam by restricting the rate of expansion, which reduces the size of the bubbles, the smaller the bubbles the "stiffer" the foam (eg. car bumpers ) I'll post the results Graham Hi All Guess what I have a T3 243 stainless synthetic/S&B scope and PES moderator and the same problems. I will have to go back to basics and start again. Has anyone managed to stiffen the forend. I was thinking of deep drilling a hole or even two holes, down from the front end and inserting silver steel rods or even stainless steel studding embedded in arraldite. It won't help weight but it might work any thoughts? I have just taken delivery of a T3 30-06 stainless Laminate threaded barrel (factory special order, 4 long months wait) Swarovaski scope. Shoots sub 1" 100mtrs straight out of box which has given back my waining confidence after the 243 saga. Graham Welcome to the forum Graham The stock is honeycombed so I'd be inclined to masking tape up the exterior and with expanding foam (Can buy it from wickes )carefully apply to the interior compartements and allow to cure before cutting away and sanding off the excess . If you have'nt used foam before have a play first before tackling your pride and joy mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunkield Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 I stiffened up the forend of my Tikka 695 plastic stock by pouring plastic metal into the honeycombed sections, I had a load left over from bedding it. It looks pretty awfull when the action is taken out but it made a hell of a difference and didn't add too much to the wight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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