old rooster Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 With the demise of my Father I'm now without somebody to look after the servicing of my guns. I can do most of it but my 687EELL needs a bit of work done on the barrels at the muzzle end, where the solder which bridges the ribs and muzzle ends has come adrift. Not sure if this might have been caused by the Teague chokes being fitted, has anybody else seen this? Photo should show what the problem is, I could use a big copper soldering iron to do the job but wondered if it is likely to spoil the blacking? Any suggestions gratefully received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westward Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I had the exact same problem. The gunsmith used soft solder, the type plumbers used to use not the electrical type with a flux core. He used traditional acid flux and heated the muzzles carefully with a small propane torch. After filling he levelled it and finished with a file, a skilled job in it's own right and the end result was perfect. Surprisingly, modern bluing is requires a considerably higher temperature than the MP of soft solder, which is why some guns, usually older ones, have to have cold blacking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bb Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Try Welshwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old rooster Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) I had the exact same problem. The gunsmith used soft solder, the type plumbers used to use not the electrical type with a flux core. He used traditional acid flux and heated the muzzles carefully with a small propane torch. After filling he levelled it and finished with a file, a skilled job in it's own right and the end result was perfect. Surprisingly, modern bluing is requires a considerably higher temperature than the MP of soft solder, which is why some guns, usually older ones, have to have cold blacking. I was a tad concerned about using anything too active flux wise as it is sealed in once soldered so no way of washing it off afterwards. Needs some passive flux ideally I suppose. With the chokes out the wall section is very thin so shouldn't require much heat, the ribs are slightly thicker. Thanks for the replies Edited February 3, 2014 by old rooster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 No problems . Not uncommon , sort of job that takes 15 minutes ,Problem is that it would be a 4/5 hour round trip to bring it to me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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