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  1. It is possible that the triggers can be set for a left hander . They are never quite as good or neat as those filed specifically for one hand or the other but a reasonable job can be made .Some thing I have done on numerous occasions .
  2. The Anson and Deeley rocker safe puts the gun in a slightly higher bracket than the " base model " . But I would describe it as a fairly standard "trade gun". Guns like this were made in there hundreds by small and medium sized workshops for sale to the shops and for export .These shops could buy machinings from several machinists , Philipson's and Asbury , the oft seem JA spring to mind , made up barrel sets and filed furnitures , or indeed complete barrel actions that needed to be stocked up and finished , a gun could then be built up to customer or excepted standard pattern and dimensions. Many will have ended up with the name of the seller engraved on the rib as that of the "maker" . A sure sign of this will that the name is only on the rib and not on the action , as it was not practical to try to engrave on a case hardened body .
  3. If the gun was made for a left hand shooter the trigger blade would have been set an filed appropriately for the finger to slide off the front trigger and so on to the back.
  4. This the one common fault with all Browning /Miroku guns .Belgium and Japaneses No one has ever really come up with a definitive answer as to why . Having had conversations about this with Browning and ex Browning employees , both in the UK and Belgium . I am still none the wiser but could give list of theories that range from the materials used , these have been changed on several occasions ,the angel of the striker , the electrolytic effect of steel on brass , or the shape of the anvil in the priver causing spark erosion . I personally take the primer option as this problem did not seem to be so common in times past but seems to have been more prevalent over the last 15 years . Take your pick .
  5. Its called the extractor cam. Many gun actions were machined so they could be built up as ejector or non ejector guns . Those machined solely as non ejectors often had a solid cam formed as part of the body and have loose joint pins . The action show appears to be a "solid pin" , where the joint pin is is an integral part of the action . As a result these actions always had a cam fitted either into the body and held in place with a pin , which it would have been had the gun been an ejector , or as in this case of a non ejector , the cam rides in the forend knuckle . It all really depends on who made the gun and how it was fitted up . Either was just as good . The safe "range" is pretty standard and would be largely the same for a variety of safe types . The gun action being a cam lever would mean the gun was of lower "quality " than one fitted with a Scott lever and spindle as it required less machining and fitting up and was therefore cheaper to produce .
  6. Some pads go hard others go soft and or sticky .Depends on the type of stuff it's made of .Try wiping it off with lighter fuel then dusting with French chalk .
  7. All depends on the chemicals he's using . Some steels especially those with high nickel or chrome content are difficult to black with some solutions . Guys who black all the time know this and can adjust the " mix " to suite . This is one of the reasons so many in the trade , no matter what they tell you, send barrel blacking out . I would suggest to tell your guy to do so as it seems he will not be able to do a decent job , on this , no matter what his other doubtless abilities are . Always believed it was best to know what you can not do rather than what you can .
  8. Taking aside the few truly made left handed guns , the basic pattern of all side by side guns is the same . Guns that were made to order to be more usable to for "lefties" with reversed triggers and reversed choking so that the gun fired left barrel front trigger ,right barrel rear trigger .A gun so ordered would have the stock cast on and the lever would be checkered on the other side . These would not be un-similar to those build specifically as a driven game guns of which there are few examples many of which have been converted back to the more conventional set up .
  9. And the moral of this story is ? Dont but obsolete cheap imported guns from anyone unless they are priced to throw away
  10. There was a trend about 15/20 years ago In America to buy guns bearing you family name . This sometimes manifested itself in unnamed guns of which there were many, suddenly becoming [ apparently ] made by some unknown/unlisted maker /seller from some market town . EG. " P James Knighton".Totally fictitious but Mr James of Ohio could have been very pleased , especially if he thinks his family had come from that area . Unnamed guns also sometimes re-appeared with the names of better known regional makers as a local name sometimes increased the value . So be warned . I hasten to add I never had anything to do with such a deceitful practice .
  11. It really doesn't matter what name is on the rib . Its who made it and where it was made . So many guns have been imported over the years with different names by different people often in small never to be repeated again batches . Many of these look OK on the outside but take the stock off and you see just how rough and ready the really are .OK so they work and are cheap , but you get what you pay for .Ask your self how much was it out of the factory . Taking into consideration the cost of import , shipping , proof , mark up and VAT which on a £450 pound gun will be £90.00 of your money . So that gun must be leaving the factory for about £200. So the question is how well made is a £200 gun ?
  12. Its an old contact, collector in the US who's bought one and is trying to find info on cases and loads .The one man I knew who would have been able to help died a couple of years ago so I am hoping someone else may have some ideas as we have tried a lot of the "usual suspects" .
  13. Anyone have information on a 28 bore pinfire rifle cartridge ?
  14. Hold the barrels sideways on in a well padded vice .Push the extractors home with a piece of wood . The small lug will slide forwards and lift up to be removed.Release the pressure on the extractors and let them come out slowly. Be very careful when doing this as they can come out fast and hurt your fingers .DO NOT attempt to remove them hand holding .
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