JONAH898 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Just ordered a tumbler and media from Henry kranks and was wondering if any of you add additives to your media and if so wot? Ideally available in these country to cut down on shipping cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cookoff013 Posted April 7, 2014 Report Share Posted April 7, 2014 http://www.vectan.fr/UK/range-of-powders look at ba10 slow speeds and low powder charges. 2000 shots per lb of powder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONAH898 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 Spoke to Henry kranks and my items should be in stock the end of next week so just got to get the primers and powder from mcavoys then it's reloading time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONAH898 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 All for 158gr lead boolit from Lee book with 357 case:- Titegroup 4.5 - 5.0gr Unique 5.3 - 6.0gr Bullseye 4.2 - 4.8gr We're these calculations from the lee book first or second edition? As mine for unique is saying 6.2-6.8 and red dot 5.0-5.5 and tight group is 4.5-5.0 with the 158 grain lead bullet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livefast123 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 It's the new one, so I guess the second edition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONAH898 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Mines the second edition too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phaedra1106 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 (edited) Use the powder manufacturers own figures, a lot more up to date, Hodgdon still shows 4.5 to 5.0 for TiteGroup http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol The Alliant load is for Gold Dot Hollow Point bullets which need a bit more powder than cast lead. TiteGroup is a nice powder just keep an eye on the charge weights, as said above BA10 is also a good choice and I also use Nobel GM3 with excellent results in a 44mag. Edited April 26, 2014 by phaedra1106 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONAH898 Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Just brought a tub of red dot and tub of unique to get me started, was nearly sold large rifle primers instead of small pistol ones good job I spotted, besides I assume not fitting wot else could of happend if I had not spotted the mistake and used them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livefast123 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 (edited) You could probably have cursed at the gun shops stupidity......maybe pushed a little too hard and got a nice surprise. I've just ordered a Lee hand press to upgrade from my Lee Loader, roll on the 21st century! Edited April 26, 2014 by Livefast123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 You could probably have cursed at the gun shops stupidity......maybe pushed a little too hard and got a nice surprise. I've just ordered a Lee hand press to upgrade from my Lee Loader, roll on the 21st century! I use one of them all the time. U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaymo Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Just brought a tub of red dot and tub of unique to get me started, was nearly sold large rifle primers instead of small pistol ones good job I spotted, besides I assume not fitting wot else could of happend if I had not spotted the mistake and used them? Just wouldn't have fitted- diff size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONAH898 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Right had all my gear posted today so started to set up my dies for a days reloading tomorrow. Started with the .38 special and went smoothly after I'd watched loads of vids on YouTube got a test round completed and looked really good with a nice crimp in the crimp groove then proceeded to the .357 as brought 2 sets of dies so can do both without having to alter one. Well first thing was I got the shell stuck as did not lube as was told no need as carbide dies but did need to, did the re-sizing and flaring dies but when came to the bullet seating and crippling dies that's were all the trouble stars. Followed same steps as in the .38 special but really struggle to press the bullet up to seat the head, sum times the press Handel will not push all the way down and sum times does and have had a couple of cases actually look crushed and bullets were you carnt see we're the brass ends as looks beded in head and main thing is when it comes to the crimping it looks like it's crimping bowt a inch from the tip all in one go so there's a point from were the whole rest of the round is a fraction thinner and not one destinct crimp line in crimp grove this is really confusing me all help would be appreciated thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Is the flaring die actually flaring the case mouth any? I don't flare the mouth of the case but most flaring dies will if set low enough, the key thing would to do it just enough to allow entry of the bullet. Or....get a little chamfering tool for the case mouth, I do that so I get a lot of case tension on the bullet with me using jacketed bullets, for lead I would use the flaring die. It sounds like you bullet seating die may be set too low also, you have to juggle the die body and the seating adjuster together balancing crimping and seating depth. Put a case in your shell holder and raise the ram, now screw the seating die into the press until you feel it touch the case mouth, half a turn ore and you should have some crimping effect. Lock it in place and go from there. U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONAH898 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Yes it's flaring the neck nicely to seat bullet but if you push the press bar to full extent the bullet gets stuck. I back the bullet seating right out then work it in till the rim of the case lines up with the crimp grove then work in the roll crimp. Twisting the die a bit at a time till I get enuf crimp. This worked well with the .38 but not the .357 and it scrapes the case and head. I know they say the .38 special set does both .38 and .357 but do you think it would be better just to get the .357 die? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Have you tried less flare! Are you seating a bullet to length and then adjusting the die to crimp but not backing out the seating adjuster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JONAH898 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 No mate once seated the bullet backed it right out before sorting the crimp. I set the flare die as in struckted ie twist in till kisses then tighten which then gives me a nice crimp when put bullet on press. The die has a adjuster on top but thought was for attaching powder hopper as dosnt seem to do anything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) Is this a normal three die set? The bullet seating die has an adjuster at the top and lock ring, that is for adjusting the bullets depth in the case. The main die body is adjusted up and down in the press separate to the previous mentioned adjuster, the die body height in the press regulates the roll crimping , two separate adjusters. So adjust the centre adjuster on the die top to set a bullets final seating height AFTER you set the die bodies height in the press so it just touches an empty case mouth on the ram plus half a turn. Bullet seating and crimping should be all in one operation unless you have opted to use a separate crimping only die. See where you go from that matey Edited May 3, 2014 by Underdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phaedra1106 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 you set the die bodies height in the press so it just touches an empty case mouth on the ram plus half a turn. Sorry but that's not correct, the 38/357 carbide seating die height is set by screwing it down until it just touches the case mouth then you must unscrew (raise) it by 3 turns. Then set your bullet seating depth, to increase the amount of crimp you screw the die back in a small amount (1/8 turn) at a time until you get the desired amount of crimp. Lee instructions are here, http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/Pistol3.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Sorry but that's not correct, the 38/357 carbide seating die height is set by screwing it down until it just touches the case mouth then you must unscrew (raise) it by 3 turns. Then set your bullet seating depth, to increase the amount of crimp you screw the die back in a small amount (1/8 turn) at a time until you get the desired amount of crimp. Lee instructions are here, http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/Pistol3.pdf Kinder the same thing, as when you screw the die in to get sufficient crimp you will have to back the seater out thus losing the seating depth and having to start over, but hey hoe what ever gets the job done. I did mine as described and have had no issues, got lucky I guess. I also understand there is no carbide in the seating die....no need, usually just on the sizing die. U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livefast123 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) I've just got a set of .44 Magnum carbide dies and the bullet seating die is set by screwing it in until it touches the shell holder then screw out 3 turns. You then adjust the seating depth by turning the knurled knob. Apparently if you want to crimp you just turn the die in until the level of crimp is reached. I just got the factory crimp die to avoid the hassle. Made 100 rounds so far and can't believe how much better the hand press and dies are over the Lee Loader. I didn't have to use any lube and just expanded the cases enough to get the lead boolit in. Edited May 3, 2014 by Livefast123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.