nicholiath Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Just been testing some .22 45gn hornady hornet with mp 300 powder. Quite pleased with an inch group at 100 yds. Now do I mess with the seating depth??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I've only loaded 45gn with Lil'Gun powder. I loaded them with 13grns and got a inch group (after zeroing the scope) I used Sierra bullets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholiath Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Its the eternal reloading itch that needs to be scratched! At hornet ranges I sometimes think inch group at 100 yds is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholiath Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 shooting 300 yard plates today in good weather to prepare for rabbits. I have reloaded hornet for a long time but never for this distance.WHO knows about the technical aspects of reloading for long range 22 hornet as i want to squeeze every last breath of capability out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I shoot it out to around 380 yards (not on quarry). Seating depth makes very little difference with most factory chambers. The best things to concentrate on for long range in this round is good brass, good even neck tensions, primer choice, consistent speed and most of all concentricity of the bullet to the rifling. It is well capable of sub 1/2 moa at 200 yards and I no longer consider 100 yards as a truely suitable range to test any centrefire round (lets face it a .22 lr can put 5 shots in 1" at 100yards on a good day) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholiath Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I neck size and use an rcbs competition bullet seater and crimp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholiath Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 How do you ensure concentricity kent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I check the case with a DTI and jig after sizing and the subsequent seated bullet. I get less than a tho' using RWS brass in an LE Wilson Neck sizer in an arbour press (or even with a little mallet) and an LE Wilson Chamber type bullet seater die. I believe these are the most accurate type of dies for the Hornet (or any rifle) and could not get my head around using my big press for such a little flimsy case. I think 2 tho' is a reasonable limit to run-out and I find it a very worthwhile practice. I care little for a lot of the reloading myths that get banded about as fact. For instance 0.2-0.3 of a grain of powder shot to shot makes no difference to the hornet in terms off accuracy as the speed will alter some whatever you do ( I now throw my loads) , Jump length in factory guns is a red herring and especially so in the hornet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I'm no where near your, or Kent's league - 3rd Division South is me - I just shoot fox out to 200 yards and that's it. The same bullet suits my rifle and has one of the highest 22 Hornet type's BC. Notwithstanding Kent's valid comment, if you have an itch, scratch it as it just might work. On average the distance between the bullet base and the ogive is 0.270". As you don't really want to have a seating depth of less than the bullet diameter, say, 0.220" and allowing for error you don't want to exceed 0.260", loading a slack handful in each of the 5 steps of 0.010" between those figures may just be worth a try. Itch scratched. Obviously, magazine size may affect the max, COL. Unless you want to get really clever (read expensive), neck sizing twice, turning the case 180 degrees before the second stroke can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I've only loaded 45gn with Lil'Gun powder. I loaded them with 13grns and got a inch group (after zeroing the scope) I used Sierra bullets. When working that load up, did you do a chrono check at any charge weights over c12.6 grains? It can be worth it as I don't think that I'm the only one who believes that there can be very little velocity change after that point using L'il Gun, and what can change is accuracy for the worse - not that there's nowt wrong with what you're getting - but it may be possible to improve it with no extra effort and also a small saving on powder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 When working that load up, did you do a chrono check at any charge weights over c12.6 grains? It can be worth it as I don't think that I'm the only one who believes that there can be very little velocity change after that point using L'il Gun, and what can change is accuracy for the worse - not that there's nowt wrong with what you're getting - but it may be possible to improve it with no extra effort and also a small saving on powder. This was my first attempt at reloading .22 Hornet, although I have reloaded .22-250 / .243 and .308 in the past. I decided on trying 12.5grains of Lil'Gun as the minimum was 12 and maximum was 13, so I thought I'd go 'half way'. Not very technical I know. I haven't tried them on a chronograph yet, owing to bad weather and work, but will do soon. I also used small pistol primers, as these were suggested and recommended to me. I'm happy with the grouping I achieved, as the rifle was not bench rested, but on the bonnet of my car/ them bipod on the floor. Hopefully, I can get out soon and try them again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 (edited) Although I use small pistol primers one should be aware of the personal risk run by using softer cups through piercing a primer. with lilGun it makes no difference in max velocity it you use 12 or 13grains in my CZ, the difference is only in std deviation that said I am not totally convinced that is not other factors just plain "******** together" during my chrono string tests. Primers certainly seem to make a difference in this regards. Case in point my records show 10.8 grn of LilGun producing a high of 2933 fps with a std.dev. of 80.75 and 11.3 grn producing a high of only 2829 but a std. dev. of 45. This was the start of my trials in July 2011. the best std. dev. figures have come from 12 - 12.2 grains. 12.2 (18 and 22) this is how I now throw my loads but I shouldn't be shocked if I found they varied some in actual charge, though accuracy is very acceptable I got 6 bunnies this morning anyhow for 6 shots the furthest two were 172 yards away sat together both head shots ( I will not talk of the crow I missed over the top sat 5-10 yards behind them just before with my first shot which sailed over the top were I aimed it from my visual mis- estimation of the range) not swearing there but the filter thinks so *********** meaning "unusual / unexpected" Edited March 30, 2014 by kent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholiath Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Kent DTI? Jig? Thanks wymberely. I also found doing the 180 degree thing neck sizing helps. I also used to minutely flare the case mouth with the universal flaring tool prior to seating and light crimp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 DTI= Dial test indicator, The jig just gives a place for the case to rotate square and the DTI to measure any run-out. I fail to see how you can size a case off square and correct it to perfect true by rotating the case 180 degrees, its always seemed total mumbo jumbo to me. Send me a few cases corrected this way and uncorrected and I will run them and see if they are any truer for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I fail to see how you can size a case off square and correct it to perfect true by rotating the case 180 degrees, That's not my fault. The trouble with being a pedant is that it makes it difficult to understand those who aren't - as you say, it's all "mumbo-jumbo" to your good self. What you are quoted as saying bears no relationship to the two posts in which the terms, "helps" and "can help" are used. At best, this means that any error is halved. That can be accurately be described as a 'help'. I am perfectly capable of using precision instruments - it was my job - however, until the odd thou' error means that I start missing Reynard, there is no requirement to do so and I'm quite happy down here in Division 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholiath Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I also just got into the habit of turning whilst neck sizing I also do it with .243 and 30.06 I suppose at the very least it will lessen any imperfection or at worst do no harm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 That's not my fault. The trouble with being a pedant is that it makes it difficult to understand those who aren't - as you say, it's all "mumbo-jumbo" to your good self. What you are quoted as saying bears no relationship to the two posts in which the terms, "helps" and "can help" are used. At best, this means that any error is halved. That can be accurately be described as a 'help'. I am perfectly capable of using precision instruments - it was my job - however, until the odd thou' error means that I start missing Reynard, there is no requirement to do so and I'm quite happy down here in Division 3. Cant get your point, though it was my job also at one time to make things from various metals. The point is it cannot half the error due to the spring in the metal and the play in the tooling to work piece (basically you have to bend further than the error to correct and on the 4th or 5th go which way is opposed anyhow. Mumbo jumbo is common in many re-loading procedures, people think it works so it does. Send me two small batches of virgin brass with and without turning batch A and B and I will blind test them for concentricity because I seriously doubt the theory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I also just got into the habit of turning whilst neck sizing I also do it with .243 and 30.06 I suppose at the very least it will lessen any imperfection or at worst do no harm. It cant make it more off that is true, the only way to know is start with new brass and measure run out. When you first set your tooling up it is then the time to get anal and check each one as it comes out the die, after a while you get to know what works for real rather than assume. Set your tooling up wrongly once though and you cant re - set to true imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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