The Juicer Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 I'm going to pillar bed and glass bed my 10/22 now I'm aware about these procedures from other USA forums and even chamfer the bolt. Has anyone done any of these procedures and if so, did they achieve better accuracy, consistently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 I can't see the point of pillar bedding the 10/22 I have glassed a few made a bit of difference on badly fitting aftermarket wooden stocks. I always chamfer the rear of the bolts improves cycling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drut Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251075 http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=220 maybe worth a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Thanks both of you. drut- that's the site I've been reading. Just seeking local perspective on this. I'm convinced there's movement in my barrel and the forward portion of the stock. The consensus seems to be to float the barrel on that site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Float the barrel but bed the first 2-3" including the mounting block, if the stock is floppy stiffen it with a bar fitted in the forend from the barrel channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I'm out sanding the stock at the moment in prep for the bedding kit arriving from Brownells, along with target hammer and trigger. When you say mounting block do you mean the v block? Just before I done anything I confirmed there was wiggle in the barrel if I pushed it side to side or up and down. So hopefully any mods I do will help a bit. Just wish I had read the threads I found 10 years ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Yes V block. Is it tight the barrel should not wiggle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 No its not tight the v barrel section with the takedown screw undone. I know to bed the first 3 inch of barrel, from the action, I've still to see a good PIC for what to remove to bed the rear of the action. But I will hunt on for that. I have the deluxe carbine, no barrel band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 If I bed the v block that will be all over the take down screw area, which I've not seen online.but I presume with release agent it won't matter and I'm filling gaps to give a solid bed in that area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Is it a 10/22 take down? Or a regular 10/22 never seen let alone done a take down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 No not the modern takedown that screw's in half. Its probably 20 yrs since I bought it.deluxe carbine its called. Though if you go on the ruger website you only see guns with the barrel band, which mine doesn't have. Ultimately I want to shoot rabbits with it, narrowing the group down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I know the one with the stock screw you have 2 choices either a pad or to bed it (glass or pillar). The v block you need to shape it with modelling clay so you don't get a mechanical lock in. Bed like another rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennym Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I just stuck a business card torn in half down the sides of the action at the back to snug up the fit in the stock, cant see the value in bedding it so just stopped the lateral play in the inlet lol thats not quite the high quality technical information I've come to expect from you.... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennym Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 my grandad said we won 2 wars making do with some string & a few old nails "make do & mend" he'd say,..... i think he would approve! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted June 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Thanks for ur input, I can see that working OK, Now I've ordered the bedding kit I'll try that anyway. What I'm trying first is similar to the 30 quid volquartsen pillar kit, but just using a 5p washer and a pad, to see what it does , before glass bedding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet boy Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Not me I've just shot and used my Ruger and the accuracy is excellent IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Have you compared it to a bolt action? Im getting 3/4" -1" groups at 25 meters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet boy Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Have you compared it to a bolt action? Im getting 3/4" -1" groups at 25 meters. No bud but I'm certainly happy with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonicdmb Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 I have made a pillar and bedded front screw v block and the rear of the action. I have the deluxe model as well. Its got a 12 1/2" barrel rounded off back of the bolt polished sears in the trigger, but what made the most difference to the trigger was the little return spring thing. Behind the trigger is a small pin fitted at an angle it binds in the hole so I took it out and polished it till it ran smooth. This improves trigger pull no end. The end result of all this is half to three quarter inch groups at fifty yards, and I don't think I have found the best ammo yet. I'm using remington subs well most of em are . The rear bedding is just a pad sort of a u shape round the back of the action. It just stops any movement at the back end. Total cost less than £15 in resin etc and done in less than a day (not the same day TBH) was it worth it hell yes I paid £50 for a tatty covered in tape and who knows what plinker, and ended up with a cracking lamping (driving myself) and ratting gun good for 50 yards. If I need more than that then its the wrong tool for the job and I'll get the Brno out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Juicer Posted July 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Thanks sonic. I'll polish the trigger pin when I have her apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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